Problems with Detonation after Plugs

[Lowflight]

I replaced the original plugs with NGK Iridium IX BKR5EIX in my 1992. I also installed a K&N and a Marc HAibeck chip the same day. Now, I get a TINY amount of what I think is detonation just after 2nd and 3rd gear. You have to listen for it....but it is a definate...click...click...click on acceleration.

I installed the plugs with no gap change as they are gaped at .50. I left the washer on when I installed them.

Suggestions?

As far as I know, it was not detonating with the original plugs (though it ran like crap in comparison)

[Lowflight]

UPDATE

I just got back from this procedure:

I decided to look at the most simple things first and then move forward. I drove the car (detonation)..I came home and disconnected the batt and removed the marc haibeck chip and put the stock chip back in. Zipped it back up and drove it (NO DETONATION) came home...put the marc haibeck chip back in and drove it (DETONATION). I did this 2 more times as the temp went up outside to near 80 degrees. I am going to drive it again this afternoon with the stock chip in when it get hotter outside. I did all drives with the AC wide open and hit many a hill to put the engine under a load.

Haibeck chip=detonoation
Stock chip=no detonation

The car does not have the crisp power of the haibeck chip etc etc..and that sucks. But the detonantion is gone

What do you guys think?
Can Marc burn a new chip with different parameters to work this out?

[Hammer]

Originally Posted by Lowflight

UPDATE

I just got back from this procedure:

I decided to look at the most simple things first and then move forward. I drove the car (detonation)..I came home and disconnected the batt and removed the marc haibeck chip and put the stock chip back in. Zipped it back up and drove it (NO DETONATION) came home...put the marc haibeck chip back in and drove it (DETONATION). I did this 2 more times as the temp went up outside to near 80 degrees. I am going to drive it again this afternoon with the stock chip in when it get hotter outside. I did all drives with the AC wide open and hit many a hill to put the engine under a load.

Haibeck chip=detonoation
Stock chip=no detonation

The car does not have the crisp power of the haibeck chip etc etc..and that sucks. But the detonantion is gone

What do you guys think?
Can Marc burn a new chip with different parameters to work this out?

Call Marc, I have the chip in with Bosch Platinum plugs gapped at .035 and have no problems at all.

[Lowflight]

Originally Posted by Hammer

Call Marc, I have the chip in with Bosch Platinum plugs gapped at .035 and have no problems at all.

Do you think I need to regap my plugs to .35 instead of .50?

[flyin ryan]

Originally Posted by Lowflight

Do you think I need to regap my plugs to .35 instead of .50?

i would. the larger the gap the more it taxes the rest of the ignition system. everything is going toward smaller gaps these days. that said if you have detonation at .050" it'll probably still be there at .035". the last NHRA SS/AS legal super stocker i built made a little over 2.3 HP/Cube with one 4150 carb naturally asperated & i set the gap at .035"ish. didn't want any more.

[A26B]

What concerns me about this, is the fact that you can hear detonation. I would expect the knock sensor to detect knock & back out advance timing. Marc's tune may be optimizing A/F to make the engine develop more power, but would still be controlled by ECM knock sensing.

Failure of a knock sensor should throw a code and prevent open loop performance. I would be looking into replacement of the knock sensor or checking the lead/connection.

Youe OEM chip may be "fat" enough to prevent the knock, but wouldn't develop the hp Marc's chip would.

[Lowflight]

You can hardly hear it when it does it. My wife is who noticed it. It is a click...click...click (sometimes just one knock) right after you switch gear and hit the gas. Definatly detonation.

Could the plug-gap have anything to do with it?

[Lowflight]

BTW, when I cranked it the other day...I got an SES light. It did not come on again, but I pulled the code and it was code 43 (which I think is the knock sensor)

The light has not come back on since

[A26B]

Originally Posted by Lowflight

Could the plug-gap have anything to do with it?

Not in my opinion. Under the worst scenario, you would experience a miss-fire, specifically incomplete combustion or no combustion at all, i.e. a dead miss.

I have yet to see or hear a plausible explaination regarding the gap difference between the early & late LT5. All, use the same ignition system. Plugs are interchangable, both washer & tapered seat. IMO, 0.050 gap is correct for the Iridium plugs. At the risk of being flamed, I would recommend running 0.050 gap on all years just for the benefit of a bigger spark. If the rest of the ignition system is in top condition, it should perform fine.

DTC 43 is the knock sensor. The service manual procedure for checking the knock sensor loop is fine if the sensor has completely failed. Mine failed intermittently. Resistance checked fine several times until it was finally open the last time. A real bear to analyze under those conditions.
Good luck with your diagnostic procedures.

If you're planning on calling Marc, please post his opinion. Always interested in Marc's wisdom!

[Lowflight]

Marc emailed me about Code 43 and said pretty much don't worry about it unless it comes back.

We are going to speak in-depth about the chip/plug situation tomorrow.

I tried to put a fresh tank of 93 octane Exxon and octane boost in and reinstall the Haibeck chip. It did not help. But, you put the stock chip back in and the car runs like it always has (well, a little better with the new plugs)

From the lack of response on all forums about this.....it must be a unique situation (which is par for the course with my cars)