3rd brake light not working. CHMSL

[jad1014]

Hello,

My CHMSL are not working. My rear brake tail lights work and hazards work. I unplugged the two connectors going into the stop light switch and the smaller light blue one has no power in the connector. I assume it should have power? Where should I look next? I am afraid i am beyond my threshold with solving electrical issues.

Thanks
Jason

[Matt B]

Brake lights are all in one connector. The other one is to disable the cruise control.

Energy is provided via the center wire whereas the two outer ones route the current to the brake light "clusters" - 4 lower and central high.

Remove the switch (just pull it out towards the inside of the car) and measure the resistances between center and both outer contacts.

If there is an issue open it by carefully prying out the 6 small latches and thoroughly clean the contact points.

Good luck! 20210711_103727.jpg20210711_103510.jpg20210711_104120.jpg

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[Corvette95]

I MAY be wrong, but going from memory, both switches will cause an in/op third brake light. I vote either bad switch or just as likely, all those expensive little bulbs in the lamp are out.

[Young1]

Go to Napa and get a new switch. Been there done that. I even took the 30 year old apart and cleaned it. It still did not work. Put in a new one and good for another 30 years!

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

post 3 and 4 are correct.
It is almost a 50-50 chance that it is one or the other.
Every time we check the switch first, it's all of the bulbs out.
If we check the bulbs first, it is the switch.
Trim limber techs probe the switch first.
The more "executive cut" techs opt to probe the bulb sockets first.
Working under the D/S hush panel can be a contortionists' practice session.

Marty

[jad1014]

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

post 3 and 4 are correct.
It is almost a 50-50 chance that it is one or the other.
Every time we check the switch first, it's all of the bulbs out.
If we check the bulbs first, it is the switch.
Trim limber techs probe the switch first.
The more "executive cut" techs opt to probe the bulb sockets first.
Working under the D/S hush panel can be a contortionists' practice session.

Marty

Thanks to all. It is only one switch to replace, correct? I though the second switch with the unused plug was for cruise control.

Should this connector have power:

[Corvette95]

Originally Posted by Corvette95

I MAY be wrong, but going from memory, both switches will cause an in/op third brake light. I vote either bad switch or just as likely, all those expensive little bulbs in the lamp are out.

Please spend the $10's a buy the second brake light switch, one controls bumper lights the other controls the high mount. BOTH need to be working.

[jad1014]

Originally Posted by Corvette95

Please spend the $10's a buy the second brake light switch, one controls bumper lights the other controls the high mount. BOTH need to be working.

My understanding is there is one brake light switch, two connectors. One connector for the bumper lights, one for CHMSL.



The orange white and blue go into the SLS. The second blue connector with the grey and a black/white wire also goes into the SLS. No?

[jad1014]

Hi - i replaced the switch and it didn?t solve the problem. Whats a good way to test for power at the bulb? I put a tester on the sauder back section of the board that holds the four lights, but not sure if that?s a good way. What?s a good source for replacement bulbs?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by jad1014

Hi - i replaced the switch and it didn?t solve the problem. Whats a good way to test for power at the bulb? I put a tester on the sauder back section of the board that holds the four lights, but not sure if that?s a good way. What?s a good source for replacement bulbs?

Some of us have upgraded to LED strips.

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30223


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