Rear Lowering and Antifreeze

[Hammer]

OK, for those of you who have lowered just the rear with the bolts, have you noticed or had any handling problems at speed or otherwise? I will be seeing 150+ at the West Gathering this year and don't want to do anything that will jepordize the handling.

I am replacing cooling system parts (radiator, hoses, thermostat, antifreeze) in a couple of weekends and am planning on using the Zerex Original Green or G-05. Both meet or exceed the 1825M spec for our cars. Anybody had any problems with this antifreeze?

Thanks to all who may respond.

[zr-1assassin]

i'm getting ready to lower the azz about 1 1/2'' this week with the longer bolts. i will let you know how it feels afterwards

[Hammer]

Originally Posted by zr-1assassin

i'm getting ready to lower the azz about 1 1/2'' this week with the longer bolts. i will let you know how it feels afterwards

Outstanding, I will look forward to hearing about it. Also, if you can post what drop you actually got and what bolts you used.

Thanks

John, you need to keep a rake on the car. You make the rear even or lower with the front you will have high end stability.

[carter200]

Originally Posted by Hammer

I am replacing cooling system parts (radiator, hoses, thermostat, antifreeze) in a couple of weekends and am planning on using the Zerex Original Green or G-05. Both meet or exceed the 1825M spec for our cars. Anybody had any problems with this antifreeze?

Thanks to all who may respond.

Make sure to use distilled water not tap water

[Hammer]

Thanks to all. Good advice for sure.

[tomtom72]

I may be out in left field on this but did you read the label and find the active chemical in the coolant you are going to use?

Sorry to butt in John. Some of the stuff that "meets or exceeds" does not use the same corrosion inhibitors as the original silicated 1825-M GM coolant. Most of all the newer coolants use an organic acid derived corrosion inhibitor as opposed to using a silicated something-or-other chemical. The key word is "silicated" or "silicates" that makes the coolant not eat the head gaskets...eventually. You can read the label and if it isn't listed at all or if it isn't listed in the MSDS label then that product is not using "silicates".


Tom

[jonszr1]

could you expand more on the contents of the anti freeze . by that i am asking what is the no no chemical to look for i am useing a green napa generic that says 1825 gm spec . but would like to know for sure as i have allready have one car thats popped a head gasket. but that one died before i could fix (80ft ) popolar tree center punched it atotal total a zr1 pancake. but could use any knowledge one has to choose the right stuff . my dealer is 1-100miles away and 2- wont order unless i by 10 cs so i am limited to what i can get . maybe someone that has thye knowledge of this stuff can start a list of the stuff thats ok . thanx

[UKZR1]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news0...m_dexcool.html

I find most antifreeze labels give very little infromation as to whats inside. Working on the assumption that the more modern OAT stuff tends to be longer life, usually the labels claim 5 years, I buy the 2 year stuff (green/blue in colour) . The long life antifreeze is usually red/pink