Z won't start...

[rush91]

So I tried to replace my oil cooler lines, bought from Jerry, very nice pieces! But I couldn't get the connections off the engine,...let it warm up but still won't budge. So looks like a job for my mechanic. But after hooking all back up, go to start it and nothing. Not battery, all dash lights come on. I tried to use code reader, but must of done something wrong.....now all it does is clicks, no dash lights at all. Any place I can start looking for trouble???

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[geezer]

Low battery will allow dash lights but won't have enough to crank starter. Charge battery & try it.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by rush91

I couldn't get the connections off the engine.

now all it does is clicks, no dash lights at all. Any place I can start looking for trouble???

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Regarding the Oil Cooler Fittings on the Oil Filter Housing......The TRICK to Remove the 12 AN Flare Fittings.

Use a 1-1/8" 12 Pt Box Wrench with another Box Wrench for leverage. The issue using a Deep Socket is that the torque is applied too far out causing the socket to twist off the fitting. With the box wrench there is no twisting off the fitting with all torque applied directly to the fitting flats.



Post 125 - SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings

Regarding the Starter Click and Aside from low Battery voltage I would say the usual culprit is the Starter Solenoid which needs to be reconditioned (the points are pitted a bit and just shine up the points on the plunger and the fixed points in Solenoid).

Post 118 - Three Things To Do For A No Start

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Regarding the Oil Cooler Fittings on the Oil Filter Housing......The TRICK to Remove the 12 AN Flare Fittings.

Use a 1-1/8" 12 Pt Box Wrench with another Box Wrench for leverage. The issue using a Deep Socket is that the torque is applied too far out causing the socket to twist off the fitting. With the box wrench there is no twisting off the fitting with all torque applied directly to the fitting flats.



Post 125 - SS Braided Oil Cooler Hoses and Fittings

Regarding the Starter Click and Aside from low Battery voltage I would say the usual culprit is the Starter Solenoid which needs to be reconditioned (the points are pitted a bit and just shine up the points on the plunger and the fixed points in Solenoid).

Post 118 - Three Things To Do For A No Start

Listen to the advice!
Absolutely the best way to deal with those darn fittings!!!

Once the battery is fully charged, get back to us and we can help from there.
It needs to be determined at what point your failure is occurring.
Is it a voltage issue
a vats issue
a theft deterrent issue
a clutch switch / circuit (neutral safety switch failure)
or a starter or starter circuit issue

Once you have full voltage, further troubleshooting is then possible.

Marty

[rush91]

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

Listen to the advice!
Absolutely the best way to deal with those darn fittings!!!

Once the battery is fully charged, get back to us and we can help from there.
It needs to be determined at what point your failure is occurring.
Is it a voltage issue
a vats issue
a theft deterrent issue
a clutch switch / circuit (neutral safety switch failure)
or a starter or starter circuit issue

Once you have full voltage, further troubleshooting is then possible.

Marty

I tried to use the cheater wrench method as shown, but Satan himself has a hold of that connection.....I tried WD40, and tried to heat up the connection as well. Nothing. That's ok, I'll let someone else give it a try.

As far as the no start, no dash lights except the red warning lights ( seatbeat, brake, etc) when key is turned off, the clicking continues and doesn't stop until I disconnect the battery. When the battery reconnected, the clicking starts again......the battery is less than a year old.

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[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Originally Posted by rush91

I tried to use the cheater wrench method as shown, but Satan himself has a hold of that connection.....I tried WD40, and tried to heat up the connection as well. Nothing. That's ok, I'll let someone else give it a try.

As far as the no start, no dash lights except the red warning lights ( seatbeat, brake, etc) when key is turned off, the clicking continues and doesn't stop until I disconnect the battery. When the battery reconnected, the clicking starts again......the battery is less than a year old.

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Battery and or terminal connections.

Marty

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by rush91

I tried to use the cheater wrench method as shown, but Satan himself has a hold of that connection.....I tried WD40, and tried to heat up the connection as well. Nothing.
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Did you bend the Open End Wrenches?
With those two Open End Wrenches you should have had about a 3 ft lever.

[Ccmano]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

With those two Open End Wrenches you should have had about a 3 ft lever.

That’s what it takes... just undid mine that way.
H

[rush91]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Did you bend the Open End Wrenches?
With those two Open End Wrenches you should have had about a 3 ft lever.

No they didn't bend, but even with extra lever, wouldn't budge.....

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[rush91]

I'm taking the battery back in to AutoZone for them to test it or recharge it.....hopefully it is the battery. I swear when it rains it pours.......trying to make my 1st Gathering next month, but not looking good

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