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12-10-2016 | #1 |
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Bloomington, MN
Posts: 127
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Winter storage
I've always stored my cars with a full tank, but one of the guys in my Corvette Club says to store a C4 for the winter with less than a 1/4 tank because a couple of sensors in the tank can go bad. Is this true? Also, does anyone use fuel stabilizer like Sta-bil?
Thanks Matt
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1991 ZR-1 #520 Arctic White/Gray |
12-11-2016 | #2 |
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arcadia,OK
Posts: 3,394
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Re: Winter storage
I would recommend storing with a full tank treated with Sta-bil.
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Jerry Downey JERRYS LT5 GASKETS & PARTS http://www.jerrysgaskets.com 1994 ZR-1, Black/Black, Lingenfelter Aerobody, 416cu in, 3.91 gears, coil-over susp, Brembo brakes, etc. 2016 Black-Red, 3LT-Z51 Auto 8-speed. |
12-11-2016 | #3 |
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Bloomington, MN
Posts: 127
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Re: Winter storage
That's what I thought. Thanks.
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1991 ZR-1 #520 Arctic White/Gray |
12-11-2016 | #4 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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Re: Winter storage
on the full tank. Condensation is a REAL concern in winter.
However, my small engine mechanic steered me to Sea Foam, stating issues with (other stabilizer(s)). I had the issues he was talking about with some small motors. But, someone had advised me to run a "stabilizer" additive and then run the tank dry before storing. As result, the jets got plugged on 3 different engines. So! I don't know if the difference was having a full tank or not, but a full tank and SEA FOAM have yet to fail in over 15 years of winter storage of 9 engines.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
12-11-2016 | #5 |
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Warrington PA
Posts: 1,914
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Re: Winter storage
I know everyone has their own ways of storing their vehicles. I do agree with a full tank of fuel to avoid condensation during storage. But I guess what I don't understand is why people store their vehicles away for months and never start them at all.
Here in the Metro Philly area, it can get quite cold. But even though I wouldn't use the Z that much in the winter when I was still working, I would always start the engine at least once every 2 weeks. Back out of the garage and let warm up to operating temps and either drive around the block a few times or go for a 5 to 10 mile trip, depending of course on weather conditions. That way I am burning off any condensation build up and still get the pleasure of going for a ride. It would be real hard for me to have the Z or any other vehicle covered up and not used during the winter months in nice weather conditions..... To those that do store, this is not a criticism of what you do, but JMO....
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Tom 1994 ZR-1 #009 "captured test fleet car" 1974 LS4 454 Vert 1974 L-82 355 Vert. 1982 L83 CFI...now a retired "dd"....Sold WAZOO Member |
12-11-2016 | #6 |
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dunbarton NH
Posts: 7,486
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Re: Winter storage
I store my car full with a stabilizer from Amsoil.
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12-11-2016 | #7 |
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Ledyard,CT
Posts: 8,251
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Re: Winter storage
Yeah, someone has to help the Amway Boys keep their 200 foot yacht open running!
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12-11-2016 | #8 |
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dunbarton NH
Posts: 7,486
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Re: Winter storage
I usually pick 2 or 3 nice days during the winter and back her out of the garage, I let it warm up, but can't take it for a drive.
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12-11-2016 | #9 |
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lake Bluff, IL
Posts: 2,095
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Re: Winter storage
For both Corvettes and snow blower, I have never needed a fuel stabilizer here in Chicago. Maybe just lucky but all I do is fill the tanks. I check that the oil is also full, put the Corvette on a battery tender and increase tire inflation pressure to 40 pounds or so to minimize flat spotting. I used to run the tire pressure to 60 psi per a friend who stores (and restores) lots of classic cars but techs at Costco told me that valves were only warranted to 40 psi. I found that out when I developed a slow leak that turned out to be a defective valve (which they still kindly replaced for free). Probably could go 50 psi but I am sticking around 40 for now. Historically I never had a big problem with flat spotting using increased pressures for storage. I normally take insurance down to Comprehensive only so I don't drive them for roughly four months. A sad thought, but I am cheered by the fact that we have only ten more days until the days start getting longer --Bob
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2016 Long Beach Red Z06 #10281 "POPS Z" 1995 Polo Green #409 "WARP TEN"--Haibeck 350/510 package, 4.10s, Hurst, Stock Exhaust with QTP Cutouts --Sold but still running strong 1993 Quasar Blue #161 "HIL KING" --Sold but still running strong, now with more than 120,000 miles 1967 Marlboro Maroon/Saddle Corvette Coupe 300 hp/4-spd --Sold a long time ago ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #95 NCM Lifetime Member Favorite Quote--Attributed to Mickey Thompson: "Too Much Horsepower is Almost Enough" |
12-11-2016 | #10 |
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mystic CT
Posts: 2,633
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Re: Winter storage
A cold start is the WORST condition for any engine.
Why do it every couple of weeks for 5 - 6 months? Once in the Spring is fine. Minimizes wear. A little over kill... but I put an electric space heater under the car for several hours (car on jack stands) to warm things up, it's called pre-heat in the aviation world, before starting in the Spring. Oil pressure comes right up. During this drill, the running gear gets exercised too (with no load), even in neutral everything is turning. Full tank with Stabil for storage, new oil and filter (run till warmed up) when putting to bed for "a long Winter's sleep". Kleenex for the tears of withdrawl... Mid April's just around the corner... OBTW: A battery tender too. Last edited by Mystic ZR-1; 12-11-2016 at 01:32 PM. Reason: . |
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