NO START....

[Vette73]

After getting my ported injector housings and plenum, I put everything back together again today....

Go to start the car and it won't start.....No crank nothing...Battery seems good I get headlights,horn and interior lights...Battery seems fine..

It's doing everything it's supposed to it seems,fuel pump building pressure,dash lights but I turn the key all the way forward and no start...Not even a crank..

Fuses are good....

??????

[BigJohn]

Starter ?

[vilant]

My guess would be starter relay or clutch switch, if everything was put back together correctly.

[Vette73]

Well just to make sure I pulled the plenum again to see if my connections underneath the plenum were good.....They looked ok but got too dark to reconnect again....Will do it Tommorow morning....

Car has been laid up now two whole months...Been in a garage and when I connected the negative cable again the car made a high pitch sound for about two seconds....I guess that's everything resetting? Never had that before...

Like I mentioned in previous posts, very new to the LT-5....If in fact it was a starter, wouldn't I at least getting a clicking sound? I get nothing at all....

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Vette73

If in fact it was a starter, wouldn't I at least getting a clicking sound? I get nothing at all....

If you got to the starter under the Ignition Coils.....disconnect the Solenoid purple wire and see if you have 12 volts when turning the key to start?

Obviously you have no power to the Starter Solenoid or the Starter Solenoid is stuck.

[G8nightman]

Maybe vats issues? Wait 20 min and try again

[tf95ZR1]

Prob stating the obvious, but are you depressing the clutch pedal
to start? Don't ask me how I know this. Right, Jeff?

[Paul Workman]

Going to the source for information on NO START issues (to name but one), you'd do well to familiarize yourself with Marc Haibeck's list of tech articles posted on his ZR1 Specialist web site. And, also, Dynomite's SOLUTIONS (sticky) archive for that and many other tech notes regarding the ZR-1.

You didn't say what year Z you have. The starter circuit varies some between the 90-92 series, changing in the 93-95 series cars. (Marc Haibeck's article diagrams show the differences clearly.)

But, to get you started, checking for 12V on the purple starter (solenoid) wire when the ignition switch is in the START position is an excellent place to start the "divide and conquer" process: IF 12V is present, the problem resides with the starter. NO voltage = problem is a switch or relay or VATS issue. (see Marc's article).

[Vette73]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Going to the source for information on NO START issues (to name but one), you'd do well to familiarize yourself with Marc Haibeck's list of tech articles posted on his ZR1 Specialist web site. And, also, Dynomite's SOLUTIONS (sticky) archive for that and many other tech notes regarding the ZR-1.

You didn't say what year Z you have. The starter circuit varies some between the 90-92 series, changing in the 93-95 series cars. (Marc Haibeck's article diagrams show the differences clearly.)

But, to get you started, checking for 12V on the purple starter (solenoid) wire when the ignition switch is in the START position is an excellent place to start the "divide and conquer" process: IF 12V is present, the problem resides with the starter. NO voltage = problem is a switch or relay or VATS issue. (see Marc's article).

Ok sounds good....Car is a 91.....Battery seems good....Even tried this morning with a boost but still doing same thing....

Car was fine before I decided to do the porting work....

[Johnny5]

Quick test for Vats or any other code google how to read the codes with a paper clip. Call me if u need help john.