Pulling the Pumpkin - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

RussMcB · 08-03-2015

I have come across a fortunate opportunity where someone has offered to swap their 4:10 gears for my stock gears. I need to ship mine to him, then he'll ship his to me after he does the swap.

Can someone maybe give me a bullet list of the steps to remove the pumpkin for shipping?

I have a FSM and have also found information on the internet, but have seen some conflicting information about what parts need to be disconnected. I'd rather not remove anything that can stay undisturbed (for now).

Thanks very much for any advice.

WVZR-1 · 08-04-2015

If the "swap" is done with someone that has done what's required for speedo/odo calibration you both want to consider doing that aspect also. If the other fellow hasn't done what's required for the calibration then you want to purchase the required parts from Marc so you can accomplish the calibration while it's apart for the gear exchange. It's something I'd certainly make sure I did.

We Gone · 08-04-2015

The biggest issue to me is removal/installation of the C-beam, working alone it can be a bear. You will also need to support the rear of the motor and transmission. The tail shaft of the trans will need to come off to change the speedo gears WVZR-1 is talking about.

Gunny · 08-04-2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by RussMcB

... Can someone maybe give me a bullet list of the steps to remove the pumpkin for shipping? ...

Russ,

It's been too long to remember any step-by-step but let me share what little I can remember.

Several (a lot) years ago I swapped a 3:31 pumpkin into a '94 LT1 A4 to get rid of the stock 2:59. The old pumpkin sat in the garage a few years until someone needed it at which time I shipped it to Texas.

This was a D36 pumpkin (for auto trannies) and not the D45 but I expect most things to be the same/similar. The only thing I shipped was the pumpkin and the batwing ... nothing else was attached. I'm guessing that when I swapped the pumpkins that I removed the exhaust and then took everything loose from the pumpkin/batwing before dropping it. Did the whole thing on jack stands (lift would have been easier). Borrowed a friend's motorcycle jack to lift the new pumpkin into place for install (easier than a regular jack).

When I shipped the old pumpkin/batwing to TX I got some help from another friend who constructed a box frame out of 2x2 pine lumber, placing supports for the batwing/pumpkin to be bolted into the frame. Once this was done and the pumpkin was secure, we stapled thick cardboard to the outside of the frame, making it suitable to ship via UPS ... since he had a UPS account I was able to ship for a very reasonable cost. You will need to drain the fluids.

Apologies that this is not more help but it may give you enough clues to proceed. I don't think I had an FSM at that time so was shooting in the dark on changing the pumpkins ... probably looked online for some help, tho.

I don't remember it being particularly difficult, just tedious. Taking apart was fairly easy; lifting/aligning for re-install works better with 2 people.

Good luck.

WVZR-1 · 08-04-2015

Shipping, the last four I shipped I used containers from either Home Depot, Lowes or Walmart. I used two for each shipment. One inside of the other, in the bottom of the first I put maybe two inches of cardboard to cushion the gear, you have to cut the top 3" or so from the second to slip inside the first and then pack it all very well with cardboard. I cut the lid of the second to the size of the inside of the first and bolted it to the pinion flange to center the assembly in the container. A couple layers of cardboard on top of the reduced dimension lid and then the actual lid. I used heavy-duty cable ties to secure the lid to the container and on one occasion I had bought one that I could actually nut/bolt the lid to the container.

I've also used totes with fold over lids and used a bolt and j-nut at each flap, heavy duty cable ties on the ends and a bolt/nut on the end of each flap in the center. The quality of totes has diminished some so I used the containers instead for the last few.

I had some actual parts totes that I shipped a pair of at one time in. I've never had a problem.

I did one once using the packaging foam (that was a request) and I just didn't really care for that idea.

I used to have a cardboard container I shipped in and made sure it was returned to me after the sale. A fellow asked to buy and keep after a sale so I obliged.

I bought a rear from FU and sent him the box, strapping, tape and assembly snapshots many years ago.

I've seen some botched shipping attempts.

batchman · 08-06-2015

I also don't remember well enough to give a blow-by-blow but when we pulled the D44 out of the 88 for LSD refresh, it was pretty simple although painful enough. Pull hubs, drop links, pull axles (can't recall, C-clips in the housing?), disconnect C-beam, pull u-joint, and if I can recall I think we just dropped one side of the batwing to get the pumpkin off of it. I think we must've dropped the tailpipes too...

I would definitely get the D44 HD clutch pack and do the LSD on the new one, and whatever u-joints you want to hit as well.

GL/Have fun with that gear!
- Jeff

08-03-2015	#1
RussMcB Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Marietta, GA USA Posts: 1,160	Pulling the Pumpkin I have come across a fortunate opportunity where someone has offered to swap their 4:10 gears for my stock gears. I need to ship mine to him, then he'll ship his to me after he does the swap. Can someone maybe give me a bullet list of the steps to remove the pumpkin for shipping? I have a FSM and have also found information on the internet, but have seen some conflicting information about what parts need to be disconnected. I'd rather not remove anything that can stay undisturbed (for now). Thanks very much for any advice. __________________ Russ McBride, [COLOR="Red"]Car Sold 8/2020[/COLOR] #1635, Marietta, GA USA, 1991 ZR-1, #766 (bought 1/1/2015) MS3-Pro, OBX, SW X-Pipe, Borla, Hurst, SLP, Goodyear F1 GS-D3, Kenwood. HOTB 2016Q3 [IMG]http://zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=316&pictureid=2873[/IMG] [IMG]http://zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=336&pictureid=2985[/IMG]

08-04-2015	#2
WVZR-1 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,890	Re: Pulling the Pumpkin If the "swap" is done with someone that has done what's required for speedo/odo calibration you both want to consider doing that aspect also. If the other fellow hasn't done what's required for the calibration then you want to purchase the required parts from Marc so you can accomplish the calibration while it's apart for the gear exchange. It's something I'd certainly make sure I did.

08-04-2015	#3
We Gone Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: ATL. GA. Posts: 2,170	Re: Pulling the Pumpkin The biggest issue to me is removal/installation of the C-beam, working alone it can be a bear. You will also need to support the rear of the motor and transmission. The tail shaft of the trans will need to come off to change the speedo gears WVZR-1 is talking about. __________________ Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold

08-04-2015	#5
WVZR-1 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,890	Re: Pulling the Pumpkin Shipping, the last four I shipped I used containers from either Home Depot, Lowes or Walmart. I used two for each shipment. One inside of the other, in the bottom of the first I put maybe two inches of cardboard to cushion the gear, you have to cut the top 3" or so from the second to slip inside the first and then pack it all very well with cardboard. I cut the lid of the second to the size of the inside of the first and bolted it to the pinion flange to center the assembly in the container. A couple layers of cardboard on top of the reduced dimension lid and then the actual lid. I used heavy-duty cable ties to secure the lid to the container and on one occasion I had bought one that I could actually nut/bolt the lid to the container. I've also used totes with fold over lids and used a bolt and j-nut at each flap, heavy duty cable ties on the ends and a bolt/nut on the end of each flap in the center. The quality of totes has diminished some so I used the containers instead for the last few. I had some actual parts totes that I shipped a pair of at one time in. I've never had a problem. I did one once using the packaging foam (that was a request) and I just didn't really care for that idea. I used to have a cardboard container I shipped in and made sure it was returned to me after the sale. A fellow asked to buy and keep after a sale so I obliged. I bought a rear from FU and sent him the box, strapping, tape and assembly snapshots many years ago. I've seen some botched shipping attempts.

08-06-2015	#6
batchman Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: I live at Devens, one run at a time Posts: 455	Re: Pulling the Pumpkin I also don't remember well enough to give a blow-by-blow but when we pulled the D44 out of the 88 for LSD refresh, it was pretty simple although painful enough. Pull hubs, drop links, pull axles (can't recall, C-clips in the housing?), disconnect C-beam, pull u-joint, and if I can recall I think we just dropped one side of the batwing to get the pumpkin off of it. I think we must've dropped the tailpipes too... I would definitely get the D44 HD clutch pack and do the LSD on the new one, and whatever u-joints you want to hit as well. GL/Have fun with that gear! - Jeff __________________ [I]91 ZR-1 #1840, autocrossing in SCCA BSP. FIC S/S's DRM chip/Watson/Borla/lid/LW batt&headlights, springs, shocks, pads & lines, quick rack & Turn One, camber brace, 32/22mm sways, A/C halfway deleted 17x11 & 12 CCW's, 315 & 335 Hoosier A6s [/I]