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#1 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: STL
Posts: 492
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I just put on a new belt, and now my serpentine belt tensioner pulley is making noise like the bearings are going out.
Its more of a rock crushing sound that's loud when the belt bounces off of it. My friend and I listened with a stethoscope and its definitely coming from the pulley itself. It gets A LOT worse when the A/C is putting a load on it. The tensioner isn't bouncing near as much with the new belt luckily. Can I just swap out the pulley/bearing combo without replacing the entire tensioner? I'm thinking this is all I need, what do you think? http://www.ebay.com/itm/221008153201...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Thanks! --- Last edited by alwayscode390; 07-03-2014 at 08:09 PM. |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 450
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Just pull yours and send it to Marc for a rebuild. Easy job and piece of mind that it's done right.
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#3 |
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 2,446
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#4 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: STL
Posts: 492
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How much does it cost? Does he make them hold more tension than stock? You think an entire rebuild is necessary after 44k miles? ---
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#5 | |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Dakota/California
Posts: 3,807
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$130 for Haibeck Accessory Belt Tensioner Rebuild Which is easiest for most....... Except for guys who want Bling ![]() At 44K miles Belt Tensioner should be fine without rebuild. I have never rebuilt a tensioner on several ZR-1s but I have replaced the Belt Tensioner Pulley with this Billet Aluminum Pulley (On ALL LT5s) which has Belt Flanges like the one used in Marc Haibeck's Belt Tensioner Rebuild (Marc does not use a Billet Aluminum Pulley in his rebuild). This Billet Aluminum Belt Tensioner Pulley will give you just a bit more belt tension given the pulley is a bit (1/8 inch more or less) larger in diameter than a stock pulley. ![]() As an aside......After removing the Serpentine Belt, remove the Belt Tensioner Bolt and Washer. Get hand under passenger side coolant manifold in front of alternator pulley and grab hold of Belt Tensioner Pulley. Lift Belt Tensioner up and sideways through slot under coolant manifold/Radiator Inlet Pipe (Passenger Side) while lifting coolant Radiator Inlet Pipe (Do NOT disconnect any coolant hoses). Use Red Loctite on Belt Tensioner Pulley Bolt. See item #8 LT5 Added Systems
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Left Clickable links ![]() -Solutions- LT5 Modifications/Rebuild Tricks Low Mileage ZR-1 Restoration 1990 Corvette (L98) Modifications LT5 Eliminated Systems LT5 Added Systems LT5/ZR-1 Fluids 1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS Last edited by Dynomite; 07-04-2014 at 02:42 AM. |
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#6 | |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,884
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If you want to get really frugal I believe you could do the bearing only! |
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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I replaced my tensioner pulley with one for an LT1 motor. It doesn't have the guide rims on the outside edges of the pulley - is rimless - but has been working just fine for 6 years and countless runs to 7k+ rpm.
As I recall, I bought the entire tensioner, but used only the pulley. As it turned out, the pulley wasn't the issue - it was the water pump after all. P. |
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#8 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: STL
Posts: 492
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Thanks for all the options and pointers guys
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