Couldm't get the 94 in gear...... - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Roadster · 04-30-2014

On the weekends I shift the 94 and the 82 in the garage, so it is easier to get into the 94 and go. We went out on Sunday, and I have noticed the past two times, that the trans is hard to shift when cold, but felt better as the Z warmed-up. So not thinking to much about it (yea right!!!) I go to move the Vettes on Monday to get them in their spots for the week, and I can't get the 94 into gear, any gear......

So I stayed relaxed and finally it went into 2nd gear. Since my garage floor is at a very slight slope, it was enough to move up a few feet and then let it roll back until I got it over on the other side of the garage.

That was close....
So I lift the hood, move the ECM and check the Clutch cylinder and besides what's in there being very dark, the fluid was very low. So I add some fluid and pump the clutch pedal about 15 times, and with the engine off, it now is going into gear easier than before.
Did a search on the forum and learned alot about the system. Need to check for leaks, possibly change out the fluid and see if there is a leak, or just remove and send it out for a rebuild from one of the vendors mentioned in the thread that I was reading. Also doesn't seem hard to remove or install. This may be the next job for the Z......

ZZZZZR1 · 04-30-2014

Tom,

I'd make sure the clutch fluid is or was changed... Also change out the transmission fluid too, either one could cause the symptoms.

Do you have a list of maintenance records?

David

nelson007 · 05-01-2014

Dave how many miles do you reconmend having the fluid changed?
I have 31 k in my car and might change it before going on the mountain run.
Nelson007

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZZZZZR1

Tom,

I'd make sure the clutch fluid is or was changed... Also change out the transmission fluid too, either one could cause the symptoms.

Do you have a list of maintenance records?

David

ZZZZZR1 · 05-02-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by nelson007

Dave how many miles do you reconmend having the fluid changed?
I have 31 k in my car and might change it before going on the mountain run.
Nelson007

Nelson,

Many say clutch fluid / brake fluid should be changed every 2 years, but I would yield to Marc Haibecks advice.

If you don't know when your fluid was changed, that's not a bad idea.

Look forward to seeing you in BG!!!

David

8cam · 05-02-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by nelson007

Dave how many miles do you reconmend having the fluid changed?
I have 31 k in my car and might change it before going on the mountain run.
Nelson007

If it's original (likely) then it's 20+ years old. I think I'd change it.

The black, nasty sludge I pulled from mine was probably original too, and I'm sure that stuff just accelerated the slave failure.

A quick change is a 10 minute job and you'll get 90% of the fluid flushed, and you don't have to go under the car. Just suck the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster and wipe the stuff out until it's clean. Put in clean DOT4 to the fill line and give it 20-30 pumps - you'll see the air bubbles coming up through the reservoir. Suck the fluid out, refill and repeat. Do this about 4 times and you'll run about a half-bottle through, most of the fluid will be changed. Now if the clutch goes soft again, the slave is the culprit 95% of the time.

A true 100% bleed will require diving under the car and using the bleeder valve, and isn't possible on a 90 with the original slave.

nelson007 · 05-03-2014

Hello Mark,
I will being changing the oil in my car tomorrow the way you did. After sucking out the fluid from the reservoir should i put the cap back on after each time i pump it out? You said you changed with Dot 4, my cap has Dot 3, its a 95.
Thanks,
Nelson
QUOTE=4cam;202378]If it's original (likely) then it's 20+ years old. I think I'd change it.

The black, nasty sludge I pulled from mine was probably original too, and I'm sure that stuff just accelerated the slave failure.

A quick change is a 10 minute job and you'll get 90% of the fluid flushed, and you don't have to go under the car. Just suck the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster and wipe the stuff out until it's clean. Put in clean DOT4 to the fill line and give it 20-30 pumps - you'll see the air bubbles coming up through the reservoir. Suck the fluid out, refill and repeat. Do this about 4 times and you'll run about a half-bottle through, most of the fluid will be changed. Now if the clutch goes soft again, the slave is the culprit 95% of the time.

A true 100% bleed will require diving under the car and using the bleeder valve, and isn't possible on a 90 with the original slave.[/QUOTE]

8cam · 05-04-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by nelson007

Hello Mark,
I will being changing the oil in my car tomorrow the way you did. After sucking out the fluid from the reservoir should i put the cap back on after each time i pump it out? You said you changed with Dot 4, my cap has Dot 3, its a 95.
Thanks,
Nelson

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4cam

If it's original (likely) then it's 20+ years old. I think I'd change it.

The black, nasty sludge I pulled from mine was probably original too, and I'm sure that stuff just accelerated the slave failure.

A quick change is a 10 minute job and you'll get 90% of the fluid flushed, and you don't have to go under the car. Just suck the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster and wipe the stuff out until it's clean. Put in clean DOT4 to the fill line and give it 20-30 pumps - you'll see the air bubbles coming up through the reservoir. Suck the fluid out, refill and repeat. Do this about 4 times and you'll run about a half-bottle through, most of the fluid will be changed. Now if the clutch goes soft again, the slave is the culprit 95% of the time.

A true 100% bleed will require diving under the car and using the bleeder valve, and isn't possible on a 90 with the original slave.

I hope you mean changing the clutch fluid. Don't put the Castrol in the clutch system!

I use DOT4 because I use the same stuff in the brakes, and it has a slightly higher temp range than DOT3. For the clutch, it doesn't make much difference, just don't use DOT5. I sucked the fluid out, refilled the reservoir and pumped away, did not put the cap back on. You want those air bubbles coming out so leave the cap off and pump it until the bubbles are gone.

8cam · 04-30-2014

Actually the '90 self-bleeds, and when you pump the clutch, it will bleed out the reservoir. In that respect, it's actually one of the easiest clutches I've ever bled. That said, my slave bit the bullet - even after cleaning out the black sludge, it didn't last a day before I saw drips and the pedal flopped to the floor.

I just got a rebuilt unit from Jim @ Power Torque Systems, and I'll be installing it tomorrow. He recommended priming the slave with fluid prior to installation, making bleeding much quicker. As long as I can get past the CAGS, it shouldn't be too tough.

Interesting factoid, Jim told me the 89-90 slaves used a breakaway bleeder valve, intentionally torqued off at the factory - that's what is under that rubber cap. Really Chevy? I swear I'm finding all sorts of things that confirm they never intended these cars to be serviced.

GOLDCYLON · 05-01-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4cam

Interesting factoid, Jim told me the 89-90 slaves used a breakaway bleeder valve, intentionally torqued off at the factory - that's what is under that rubber cap. Really Chevy? I swear I'm finding all sorts of things that confirm they never intended these cars to be serviced.

hmm I never heard that one but yeah it does not surprise me. Im sure WV would know for sure

Blue Flame Restorations · 05-01-2014

Dave (WV ZR-) is a wealth of knowledge for part numbers and this type of stuff. Always enjoy reading when he contributes these things. Thanks!!!!

04-30-2014	#1
Roadster Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Warrington PA Posts: 1,914	Couldn't get the 94 in gear...... On the weekends I shift the 94 and the 82 in the garage, so it is easier to get into the 94 and go. We went out on Sunday, and I have noticed the past two times, that the trans is hard to shift when cold, but felt better as the Z warmed-up. So not thinking to much about it (yea right!!!) I go to move the Vettes on Monday to get them in their spots for the week, and I can't get the 94 into gear, any gear...... So I stayed relaxed and finally it went into 2nd gear. Since my garage floor is at a very slight slope, it was enough to move up a few feet and then let it roll back until I got it over on the other side of the garage. That was close.... So I lift the hood, move the ECM and check the Clutch cylinder and besides what's in there being very dark, the fluid was very low. So I add some fluid and pump the clutch pedal about 15 times, and with the engine off, it now is going into gear easier than before. Did a search on the forum and learned alot about the system. Need to check for leaks, possibly change out the fluid and see if there is a leak, or just remove and send it out for a rebuild from one of the vendors mentioned in the thread that I was reading. Also doesn't seem hard to remove or install. This may be the next job for the Z...... __________________ Tom 1994 ZR-1 #009 "captured test fleet car" 1974 LS4 454 Vert 1974 L-82 355 Vert. 1982 L83 CFI...now a retired "dd"....Sold WAZOO Member Last edited by Roadster; 05-07-2014 at 04:27 PM.

04-30-2014	#2
ZZZZZR1 Banned BANNED Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: MD Posts: 3,690	Re: Couldm't get the 94 in gear...... Tom, I'd make sure the clutch fluid is or was changed... Also change out the transmission fluid too, either one could cause the symptoms. Do you have a list of maintenance records? David

05-03-2014	#6
nelson007 Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Westminster, Md. Posts: 436	Re: Couldm't get the 94 in gear...... Hello Mark, I will being changing the oil in my car tomorrow the way you did. After sucking out the fluid from the reservoir should i put the cap back on after each time i pump it out? You said you changed with Dot 4, my cap has Dot 3, its a 95. Thanks, Nelson QUOTE=4cam;202378]If it's original (likely) then it's 20+ years old. I think I'd change it. The black, nasty sludge I pulled from mine was probably original too, and I'm sure that stuff just accelerated the slave failure. A quick change is a 10 minute job and you'll get 90% of the fluid flushed, and you don't have to go under the car. Just suck the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster and wipe the stuff out until it's clean. Put in clean DOT4 to the fill line and give it 20-30 pumps - you'll see the air bubbles coming up through the reservoir. Suck the fluid out, refill and repeat. Do this about 4 times and you'll run about a half-bottle through, most of the fluid will be changed. Now if the clutch goes soft again, the slave is the culprit 95% of the time. A true 100% bleed will require diving under the car and using the bleeder valve, and isn't possible on a 90 with the original slave.[/QUOTE]

04-30-2014	#8
8cam Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Atlanta Posts: 451	Re: Couldm't get the 94 in gear...... Actually the '90 self-bleeds, and when you pump the clutch, it will bleed out the reservoir. In that respect, it's actually one of the easiest clutches I've ever bled. That said, my slave bit the bullet - even after cleaning out the black sludge, it didn't last a day before I saw drips and the pedal flopped to the floor. I just got a rebuilt unit from Jim @ Power Torque Systems, and I'll be installing it tomorrow. He recommended priming the slave with fluid prior to installation, making bleeding much quicker. As long as I can get past the CAGS, it shouldn't be too tough. Interesting factoid, Jim told me the 89-90 slaves used a breakaway bleeder valve, intentionally torqued off at the factory - that's what is under that rubber cap. Really Chevy? I swear I'm finding all sorts of things that confirm they never intended these cars to be serviced. __________________ Mark '90 ZR-1 #1322 Daily Driver, 64k and counting Black/Gray [IMG]http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb49/mlitherland/IMG_0326_zps3d50d8cb.jpg[/IMG]

05-01-2014	#10
Blue Flame Restorations Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Pendleton, IN Posts: 3,904	Re: Couldm't get the 94 in gear...... Dave (WV ZR-) is a wealth of knowledge for part numbers and this type of stuff. Always enjoy reading when he contributes these things. Thanks!!!! __________________ 1988 KOH Prototype EX5023 sold 1990 ZR-1 #444 Convertible 1990 ZR-1 Black #966 1991 ZR-1 Quazar Blue #296 1957 Duntov SS Project Last edited by Blue Flame Restorations; 05-01-2014 at 03:45 PM.