Starts then dies

[XfireZ51]

Got a good portion of my interior conversion done and part of that included dropping the steering column. Took the opportunity to address the column "slop" by installing one of Marc's oversize pins. I was able to finally pull the old one out but not before slicing up my thumb on some sharp plastic trim and clip. Sound familiar?
Have all of that up together now, BUT, when I went start the motor, SECURITY light continues to flash even w key in ignition and turned to START. I can hear the FPumps spin up and motor will catch fire. Runs for about 5-10sec, then dies.
Any amount of accelerator does nothing to keep it alive. I suspect fuel is being cutoff and wondering if there is a correlation between SECURITY light flashing and No Run. Could I have pulled some wire at the column causing a VATS issue?
Anybody run into similar situation? Marc advises to check VATS harness connection near ignition switch. BTW, I do have Oil Pressure and SES light flashes correctly for start-up. Right now it's too friggin cold in garage to start tearing out hush panel and knee bolster.

[mike100]

Last column I had apart I had forgot to reinstall the airbag fuse and that results in a no-start, but there was a big clue as the instrument display had 'SYS' shown.

In my case it was a full column disassembly, but you said you were able to repair yours with just the oversize pin. So what I'm asking is how far did you have to take apart the column? My first inclination is the VATS contacts aren't working well. The good news is that you only need to remove the wheel and turn signal stuff to get the ign cylinder out. I guess you could double check the column electrical plugs.

Have you tried fooling the VATS with the resistor trick? I never had to repair a VATS issue before so I don't have any more specific info beyond the repair of the pellet contacts themselves.

[XfireZ51]

Mike,

I hope to get into it tomorrow. Supposed to be 30's and so may be workable in garage. It definitely feels as if fuel is cutoff. Starter engages. Motor runs probably because pump primes but then ceases. I did not disassemble column. Just dropped it to access pin. Maybe pulled a wire or connector?

[GOLDCYLON]

Ok Dom I'm assuming you tried your spare key right? The PEL resister might of crapped out on your primary key.

I'm sure you did something in the column while you were in there although

[XfireZ51]

We've had some pretty cold weather here lately. And just like your lower appendages, mechanical things shrink too. As Rosanne Rosanna Danna would say, "Its always something". So the SECURITY light blinking had nothing to do w the No Run. It had apparently gotten cold enough so that the DOOR AJAR switch circuit on the passenger side was not operating properly. Although the door was closed properly, the switch said it was still open. A piece of 2 sided foam eliminated that issue.
Had lunch w Bob DeMarco and his wife Amy before they flew out of O'Hare. Pete joined us for lunch at RAM. Pete suggested I test Fuel Pressure. Did that, got 50psi w KEY ON. I had to take IAC motor off to fit gauge on so the IAC port was open. Started car and it ran at high idle. Didn't shutoff. Unfortunately, I left IAC connected so pintle and spring BOINGED somewhere. Luckily, I had a spare IAC.
Basically, it turns out it was too cold for the motor to run. I need to change some settings in the calibration at 0C and below. Maybe raise the idle and more CHOKE. I guess that's why manufacturers send cars to Arctic and Norway for calibration work. It is the only way you can do that work with conditions that are consistent.