Winter storage and fuel stabilizers: Snake oil?

[Paul Workman]

I used to use Sea Foam in my lawnmowers and snow blowers and weed whackers, generator, etc - stuff that sat all winter. Then it got pricy (still is), and Sta-Bil (sp?) became available for less, so I switched.

Is the stuff even necessary - stabilizers, I mean - especially if there is ethanol in the fuel? Some say no, but the one year I didn't treat fuel in my motorcycle, come spring the jets in two of the 6 carbs had to have varnish cleaned out of the jets.

Last spring I took my generator to a small engine repair shop and $125 later (labor) I was told, ("I see you used Sta-Bil in your fuel. You don't want to be using Sta-Bil.") So, I asked him what he recommended, and he said Sea Foam. Suspicious, I asked him if he sold Sea Foam, but instead he suggested WalMart or any auto supply store. (He went on to say the Sta-Bil leaves a chalky residue that plugs up the tiny orifices especially, that small motors tend to have. In fact, I've see a chalky residue in the jets of my pressure washer, but have no proof of what the source is: only the mechanic's word.)

I put a pint of Sea Foam in the Vettes for winter storage, but in spite of that, I make it a point to crank them at least once every 2-3 weeks and let them warm up.

What is your experience with fuel stabilizers? I'm curious, as I'm not entirely convinced yet that the people that sell it didn't have a great grandfather that used to sell snake oil!

[efnfast]

I've used Sta-Bil, with no ill effects I'm aware of. I've used Sea Foam, but not much. Currently I'm using Amsoil's stabilizer, really because I use their products and trust them.

[FU]

I have been using Sta-Bil on boat's , cars , generators, motorcycles for years with no problem at all.


I use Seafoam also in gas tanks , crankcase and throttle body's of used vehicles to clean them up. Followed by an oil & filter change.

[Karl]

I use heat from the parts store and try to drive the car and use the gas in the winter so it does not sit too long.

[xlr8nflorida]

I mix Stabil with Non-Ethanol 93 Fuel.


Been doing that for 12 years in the Z.


I like Sea Foam but don't use it in the ZR-1.


I am running the stock original injectors and am not exactly stock either.


I really only believe in 4 additives as follows:


Stabil
BG44K
Chevron Techron
Sea Foam


The BG44k is way better than the Sea Foam though. Every time I do it on my C5, you can feel it in the seat of the pants acceleration - feels like about 20HP.

[Dynomite]

1. Install the Battery Disconnect Switch and Disconnect the Battery.
2. Fill the gas tank.
3. Make sure antifreeze is good for at least -15 deg F (3-1/2 balls floating).
4. Park the ZR-1s on floor mats to prevent condensation on a bare unheated concrete floor.
5. Use about 5 sheets of bounce poked into the Plenum Runners.
6. Use a Car Cover to keep the car clean which adds to the heating effect.
7. Do NOT start the car during the winter storage.
8. Move to California for 4 months and Drive the CA ZR-1s.

I Disconnect Battery Cables (Negative Cable on ZR1) when vehicles are sitting over a couple weeks. This includes ATVs, Tractors, Trucks, Cars and they ALWAYS fire right up as if a NEW battery when the battery cables are reconnected. CHARGE BATTERY BEFORE DISCONNECTING CABLES.

The Battery Disconnect Switch and Having an Operational Secondary Full Power Switch



Keep the fuel tank filled to the top to suppress water condensation.

I use NO SNAKE OIL treatments in gas/diesel tanks but DO FILL FUEL TANKS before any over winter storage. I have noticed on carbureted ATVs that the jets WILL GET GUMMED UP over a long period of sitting where the gas in the carburetor bowel is allowed to completely evaporate.

In cold climates make sure your coolant antifreeze (GREEN for LT5) is at proper concentration for coldest temperatures.



I do use BOUNCE if for no other reason the interior is FRESH in spring. Assisting BOUNCE make sure the ZR1 interior has NO access for mice and keep ZR1 covered so interior is DARK as mice look for lighted access points.



A moisture barrier will not stop a concrete floor from sweating. It will stop the mitigation of ground water through a slab if done correctly. Sweating is caused by a combination of concrete temperature and weather conditions. If the concrete is cold enough and the temperature and humidity high enough the slab will sweat, regardless of a barrier. I use GETRUNG Flooring on Ebay.



See Winter Storage

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

D-Con definitely works and if you have soooo many mice that the trays are empty you have to keep full trays available until your mice population is reduced which may take a couple weeks then you will find the trays will remain nearly full as the infiltration of mice dwindles.

Naw... I've used Decon mouse candy. Comparing it to One Bite or Tomcat (the latter is too dangerous if you have pets, due to secondary poisoning) is like comparing a stock L98 to a ported LT5 Three days NO mice could be found, following a massive infestation - my first winter here on the "ranch".

Gotta go fill up the Z. No radiator yet, so antifreeze is prolly not a "biggie" yet.

[Schrade]

Only over-the-counter I've know of that WASN'T snake oil of some sort, is Trans-X. That stuff seems to permeate the molecular structure of latex and some synthetic elastomers...

CE's are gonna' have to explain to me chemical principles of their product, before I buy it...

[batchman]

I've always found the real enemy is oxygen. Filling the gas tank is all I've needed.

Funny thing now, last year my wife convinced me to use Sta-Bil and now my snow blower won't stay running....

Cheers,
- Jeff

[Vetman]

I have always filled all tanks full in fall for winter storage and all fires up in the spring. Mowers, motor cycles, jeep and collector cars. However my cars I try to at least start once every two weeks