Intake Manifold Removal Question

[KJL]

I thought I could remove the intake manifold without the need of the service manual. I removed all the bolts, hoses, wire harnesses, air intake, throttle cable etc. without issue. When I went to carefully lift it off I discovered a wire harness attached to the underside at the rear of the intake and also noticed some other stuff attached underneath as well. My goal is to check the torque of the injector housing bolts as they are leaking oil at the gaskets. Having the intake lifted up enough I can see the reason why. Anyway, there appears to be a bolt holding one of the harnesses in (the large one) and the other looks like just a push in plug. I am not sure about the other stuff. It seems odd that that anything would be attached to the underside of a component that would need to be removed to service what is under it. Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks!

PS I did order a manual but like an idiot I ordered one for the 1995 corvette not the ZR1. I have a service supplement but it does not show all the wiring harnesses nor anything at all that attaches to the underside of the intake. Looks squeaky clean simple from the diagrams.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by KJL

I thought I could remove the intake manifold without the need of the service manual. Can anyone shed some light on this? Thanks!

A. Tools for Plenum Removal.

Two Allen Head wrenches (6mm and 3mm),
Two flat head Screw drivers and ...................................1/4 inch socket wrench with 1/4 inch socket
TB bracket wrenches (7mm and 9mm)..........................and short extension for DIS Connector


B. Plenum Removal Steps (assuming you have TB Coolant Blocked). If not.....remove some coolant before you start.
1. Disconnect Battery (Check Battery Condition and Jumper GOOD Battery as FIRST CHECK).
2. Remove Samco (or stock) Air Duct (large flat screw driver).
3. Remove Oil Catch Can Hose (If Oil Catch Can Installed) to Plenum and PCV Dual Connector on back of Plenum (small flat screw driver).
4. Remove Trottle Body Cables (two including TB Shield and two top (I have 3mm SS Allen Head) screws on Plenum) and TB Connector (7mm and 9mm wrenches).
5. Remove Fuel Regulator Vacuum Hose "L" rear of Plenum.
6. Disconnect MAP Vacuum hose from MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) and from rear of Plenum.......
(in case it gets intangled with other wires/hoses as MAP is not disconnected from Plenum).
7. Disconnect Passenger Side Plenum Vacuum (and Drivers side Plenum Vacuum if secondaries not removed).
8. Disconnect Brake Boost Vacuum line Drivers Side Rear of Plenum.
9. Remove three 6mm Allen Head SS Fuel Line Bolts and two fuel lines (6mm Allen Ball Head Socket) or Torx-40 stock bolts.
10. Open gas cap to prevent fuel lines from leaking when removed from fuel rail.
11. Remove 12 Allen Head SS Plenum Bolts (6mm Allen Ball Head Socket with Extension) or Torx-40 stock bolts.
12. Lift Plenum from Gasket (front only) and remove two Cam Cover PCV Vent Rubber Connectors to Air Horn.
13. Disconnect two DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) Connectors front of DIS.
14. Disconnect large Purge Vacuum line under front of Plenum (91')......
(90' has small vacuum line only under front of Plenum going to Charcoal Canister under left head light).
15. Disconnect two small electrical connectors rear under Plenum (MAP and DIS).
16. Unscrew 1/4 bolt in Main DIS Connector rear of Plenum.
17. Remove Plenum.

C. Starter Removal.
18. Remove Coil Pack Connector and 4 bolts (two pairs 8mm hex heads 6mm bolts front, 10mm hex heads 8mm bolts rear).
19. Remove Coil Packs with plug wires attached (remove all 8 plug wires from Cam Covers).
20. Check starter with hot wire but then disconnect Starter Solenoid connector.
21. Disconnect main HOT wire from Battery to Starter.
22. Remove two starter mounting bolts (13mm Hex Head 10mm bolts) and lift starter out of Valley.



Removing Plenum (including the 10 minute Plenum Removal)

[PhillipsLT5]

Dyno. ROCKS!

[XfireZ51]

It's a plenum not an intake manifold. That's your problem

[KJL]

Yea yea....old school. I can strip down my 72 without hesitation. Well it came right off without a problem. Thanks for the tips. I noticed that the small vacuum canisters to not align well with the linkage mounting pins. The actuator arm looks as if it is slightly offset and if the units were turned 180 degrees they would align better. I noticed in some pictures they appear to align better than mine. I have a 95.

There is some oil in the motor valley and I was wondering if it would be possible to jack the front of the car up a bit and carefully wash some of it out with simply green and a gentle stream of water or something.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by KJL

I noticed that the small vacuum canisters to not align well with the linkage mounting pins. The actuator arm looks as if it is slightly offset and if the units were turned 180 degrees they would align better. I noticed in some pictures they appear to align better than mine. I have a 95.

There is some oil in the motor valley and I was wondering if it would be possible to jack the front of the car up a bit and carefully wash some of it out with simply green and a gentle stream of water or something.

The general concensus is to leave those vacuum canisters just as you see them unless you are installing new canisters...then I aligned them "straight".

I would remove coils and starter........When you are at it.....clean up starter solenoid contacts with wire brush.
Then clean out the valley drain by blowing compressed air up from bottom tube between the oil pan and bell housing. Then pressure wash if you have to

Do not laugh...but I soak paper towel and paint brush in gas and clean out all oil (with coils and starter removed)....then HOT pressure wash

The Starter Solenoid is shown in the left photo with slight burnt contacts in right photo.


The Solenoid contacts in left photo were wire brushed clean in right photo.

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Originally Posted by PhillipsLT5

Dyno. ROCKS!

Agreed 100%

[mgbrv8]

This might help also feel free to contact me.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=bf12a0aa41

Dave

[KJL]

Thanks for all the help. Finally got to check the injector housing bolts and found just about all were 30 to 50% low on torque and some were just finger tight. I hope this solves my oil leak at the mating surfaces. I will put back together after some cleaning. If not, I guess I will need to replace the gasket. Now all I need to do is figure out how to replace the battery.... I replaced the transmission in my wife's Jag in the garage with car on jack stands and a cheap scissors lift, I cant figure out how to replace battery. Maybe I will need service manual after all!

[PhillipsLT5]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gk03-roWP2A

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgMa-J8Gqks