What are acceptable engine temps and another?

[CKJ]

I'm driving my Z around Phoenix here and I want to know how hot is acceptable for the engine. If I get stuck sitting in traffic and have the AC on it has gotten up to 255 or so (digital reading) and I get fairly nervous and turn off the AC and sweat it out. It still says COOL under the digital readout but I wanted to get your guys opinion. I did change the coolant and flush all the fluids a month or so ago.

Secondly: I get the ASR service light and push the ASR OFF button on my car. I've only had the car a few months and it gives an error almost immediately if I start driving it without turning off the ASR. My real question is I hear a bunch of "clicking" noises when Im taking off slowly. It seems like they are suspension or cv joint related? Anyone have any run ins with these noises? Click Click and then it stops when i'm up over 20 mph or so (or I just cant hear it at that point :P) The car has almost 86k miles ...

[tomtom72]

Hi CKJ,

I've no idea about the clicking sounds except to say that bad u-joints only get worse the faster they turn, unsually....I would say that the anti-lock speed sensor could be a likely source for a clicking noise also...maybe worth a look, they might be loose?? Did the clicking noise start after the rear gear lube was changed? Were the pads changed?

On the temps, I haven't tried to use the temp function on the A/C display in my 90 yet....I may try that today if I can find the instructions!
However, have you had the rad out for a cleaning? Does your car have a debris screen installed behind the front bumper? Reason I ask is that it's not just leafs & candy wrappers but also small dirt like sand & road pebbles that clogg the fins. That's what I found in mine...a ton of tiny pebles in my fins. What a PIA to get them out!!! I was almost gonna buy a new rad to save the trouble. Oh, yea the condensor had them also! Are you sure both fans are coming on with the A/C engaged?

Anyway, since I used water to flush the system ala the FSM instructions, and changed to a 180 T-stat, and used GM 1825-M coolant diluted to 40% with one bottle water wetter and distilled water I've had good results with the A/C on in slow around town traffic. Car actually runs hotter, by the gauge, without the A/C on in traffic. It gets all the way over to about 1/4" away from the end! With the A/C on it usually stays about 1/2 way. If I get stuck in a traffic jam then it moves up to 3/4's more or less...but that's sitting still more than moving at 20 to 30 mph. Seems after the rad clean up and a lower concentration of coolant and the WW it runs alot cooler with the A/C on...only out on the highway will it go to 1/2 way with or w/o A/C.

I will try to call up the digital read out today & post.

Tom

[guinnessdood]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Hi CKJ,

I've no idea about the clicking sounds except to say that bad u-joints only get worse the faster they turn, unsually....I would say that the anti-lock speed sensor could be a likely source for a clicking noise also...maybe worth a look, they might be loose?? Did the clicking noise start after the rear gear lube was changed? Were the pads changed?

On the temps, I haven't tried to use the temp function on the A/C display in my 90 yet....I may try that today if I can find the instructions!
However, have you had the rad out for a cleaning? Does your car have a debris screen installed behind the front bumper? Reason I ask is that it's not just leafs & candy wrappers but also small dirt like sand & road pebbles that clogg the fins. That's what I found in mine...a ton of tiny pebles in my fins. What a PIA to get them out!!! I was almost gonna buy a new rad to save the trouble. Oh, yea the condensor had them also! Are you sure both fans are coming on with the A/C engaged?

Anyway, since I used water to flush the system ala the FSM instructions, and changed to a 180 T-stat, and used GM 1825-M coolant diluted to 40% with one bottle water wetter and distilled water I've had good results with the A/C on in slow around town traffic. Car actually runs hotter, by the gauge, without the A/C on in traffic. It gets all the way over to about 1/4" away from the end! With the A/C on it usually stays about 1/2 way. If I get stuck in a traffic jam then it moves up to 3/4's more or less...but that's sitting still more than moving at 20 to 30 mph. Seems after the rad clean up and a lower concentration of coolant and the WW it runs alot cooler with the A/C on...only out on the highway will it go to 1/2 way with or w/o A/C.

I will try to call up the digital read out today & post.

Tom

Tom...good tips for him. If a car gets much track time...the stock radiator is insufficient. I will be going to a Ron Davis radiator in the very near future. I may even work on getitng a Group Purchase together so we can all save some $$ for mods that get you more POWER!! :-)

While you're at it....come into the Net Registry store and get you some new Samco Coolant Hoses (special Group Buy price of $175) for your car. When you pull your radiator out for cleaning, you can replace theos enasty black rubber hoses with some VERY NICE Samco Silicone reinforced hoses. They look nice and perform way beyond the factory rubber hoses. They are considered the finest hoses for our cars.

[tomtom72]

Uly, I would for sure be interested in a G/B on a good replacement radiator...even though my car doesn't get tracked: autoX or drags or road course with a PDA group...I gotta go to school & learn first & I gotta buy a helmet too!

I would like a better rad than the stock one because I can't believe plastic tanks!!! What's that...some one's idea of a joke? I got in on the first G/B of the Samco kit & yes man they sure do the trick...waaaay better than the rubber stuff!


Tom

[guinnessdood]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Uly, I would for sure be interested in a G/B on a good replacement radiator...even though my car doesn't get tracked: autoX or drags or road course with a PDA group...I gotta go to school & learn first & I gotta buy a helmet too!

I would like a better rad than the stock one because I can't believe plastic tanks!!! What's that...some one's idea of a joke? I got in on the first G/B of the Samco kit & yes man they sure do the trick...waaaay better than the rubber stuff!


Tom

By the way...I am done with Corvette Forum. I will be staying right here form now on. Their rules are too rigid.

I will put together a Group Purchase INTEREST on the Ron Davis radiator soon...I am going to Hawaii on Monday for two weeks...so when I get back. well...maybe in my spare time while in Hawaii...who knows.

Even my 88 BMW 528E had plastic sides on the radiator...so not just Chevy...BMW too. I replaced that radiator when it started leaking at the metal to plastic joints...with a Baer radiator...much better...although some of the holes didn't line up...I got it to fit.

[JPL]

Jeff What other read outs are there.

That is really a good piece of information. Can anyone share what other data is available there? Can you find the engine oil temperature?

[tccrab]

Could somebody post the instructions on how to display the digital temp on my '90?

Idling in traffic my temp gauge runs about 3/4, running on the freeway about 1/4.

Bone stock '90, very low miles (10,800), never been on a dirt road, never been in the rain. Radiator absolutely clean, no rocks, no leaves, no dirt.

Is this normal?

TomC
'90ZR1 #792

Press and hold fan speed up down buttons together for 5-7 seconds.

Release buttons

Use fan speed up button to scroll to #16

Press fan speed auto button

Reads Coolant temp in C

To exit diagnostic mode, press AC auto or turn AC off.

[tomtom72]

Thanks Jeff! You da man!

[Tim]

Jeff What other read outs are there.