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04-30-2012 | #1 |
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 69
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Engine won't turn over when warm
I presently own a 1990 ZR-1. After driving for a while and trying to start, the engine doesn't turn over . As soon as jumper cables are put on the battery, the engine starts right up. Had battery and alternator checked out okay. Problem persisted. Had battery changed and starter rebuilt. After driving 60 miles or so turned off and tried to start later and still got the same problem with no start. Had key checked and is okay. I would appreciate some suggestions. Thank You
Last edited by Crusin; 05-01-2012 at 06:50 AM. |
04-30-2012 | #2 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,155
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Re: Engine won't turn over when warm
Bad clutch switch or your starter is suspect. My money is on the clutch switch as the culprit. A lot of members have bypassed the switch as to not get stranded. Look in the solution area and that should walk you through the process.
Heres a link below on how to run the bypass Welcome to the forum. GC http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?p=98493
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 04-30-2012 at 02:51 PM. |
05-02-2012 | #3 | |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,155
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Re: Engine won't turn over when warm
Quote:
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V |
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04-30-2012 | #4 |
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 69
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Re: Engine won't turn over when warm
Thank You for your suggestion, I will have that looked into.
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04-30-2012 | #5 |
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Houston 90 Red ZR-1
Posts: 2,320
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Re: Engine won't turn over when warm
Need to make this one a super sticky. Its like Deja vu all over again.
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04-30-2012 | #6 |
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 55
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Re: Engine won't turn over when warm
I would also check the starter ground and the negative battery terminal for corrosion and clean the connection points on the frame
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04-30-2012 | #7 |
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: pittsburgh
Posts: 4,632
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Re: Engine won't turn over when warm
if you haven't done it bypass the clutch switch. did many years ago and never had another problem with that
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It's not the car, it's the people - Doug Johnson 90 r/r "KEYS ON" nick named "T.L.B" |
05-01-2012 | #8 |
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,207
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Re: Engine won't turn over when warm
Battery......
If you put cables on and it starts right up then it's battery. I assume by "cables" you mean a jump. The car is very sensitive to a marginal battery. Also, I'd leave the clutch switch in place. It's a safety feature. They only burn up if you don't have the clutch fully pushed when you turn the key. Many get in the habit of turning the key as they press the clutch and this put a hurt on the switch (arcs inside) I've never had an issue with my clutch switch in 15yrs of driving.
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Scott Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
05-01-2012 | #9 | |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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Re: Engine won't turn over when warm
Quote:
A while back I posted a schematic for a relay to do the heavy lifting, leaving the clutch switch to simply activating the relay - vastly reducing current draw through the switch. However, in retrospect, the problem with the arching is simply moved from the switch to the (mechanical) relay. So! I think I'll re-design the circuit and put a MIL spec solid state (FET) in place of the relay (read: no arching ever). That said, Marc Haibeck made the comment once that he bypassed the clutch switch because pressing on the clutch puts a good deal of force on the thrust bearing in the LT5, a bearing that can be very dry, depending on how long it has been between startups. So... There's that to consider. This discussion is warming to a tech article for the Registry, methinks!! But, in the mean time, I agree - we should be a smashin' da clutch afore turnin da key, doanchaknow!! P.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
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05-01-2012 | #10 |
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 69
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Re: Engine won't turn over when warm
I would like to thank you all for your suggestions in regard to my current problem with engine not turning over when hot. Keep on Motoring Guys. CHEERS:
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