Risk of ignoring lifter noise? - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

VetteMed · 01-30-2012

As my ZR-1 nears 195k miles, I've noticed that the noise which I and a few other forum members think might be lifter noise, seems to be worsening slowly. The motor runs great, but at idle, there's a noticeable tapping noise coming from what sounds like under the plenum. If this IS one or more lifters that is collapsed or otherwise defective, is this a big risk for the affected cam(s) involved? I am having a hard time justifying pulling the motor out, given that it seems silly to swap lifters, and then put such a high mileage motor back in the car.

I have absolutely no budget for any thoughts of a rebuild, or a used LT5 from a part-out. If I wipe a cam lobe, or if the engine otherwise pukes, the car will be sitting for a LONG time.

I'm not really sure what I'm looking to hear -- I know I'm probably gambling by continuing to drive the car a few hundred miles per week.

Is it worthwhile to try a different (read: thicker) oil? I've been running Mobil1 10W-30 High Mileage.

Recently changed plugs, have good even clean burn in all cylinders, FWIW. 20mpg in mixed driving.

Thanks for any input!

rhipsher · 01-30-2012

Let me just say 194k? That is freaken awesome. My opinion is that your probably long overdue for new lifters. Id pull the cam cover on the side you think its on and just replace that one lifter for now and you'll be good to go. Replacing one lifter shouldn't break the bank. When you get the cam cover off just fire the car up and and you'll find it quick. Just don't rev the engine. Lol! A face full of hot oil will make you do the rumple stilskin dance.
On all the other cars I've ever done a valve adjustment on or looked for a bad lifter I would just buy a cheap set of valve covers and just cut a slot in the top of them so I could see what's going on in there without engine oil going all over the place. You'll probably have to fasion something to deflect the oil from going all over the place.

VetteMed · 01-30-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhipsher

Let me just say 194k? That is freaken awesome. My opinion is that your probably long overdue for new lifters. Id pull the cam cover on the side you think its on and just replace that one lifter for now and you'll be good to go. Replacing one lifter shouldn't break the bank. When you get the cam cover off just fire the car up and and you'll find it quick. Just don't rev the engine. Lol! A face full of hot oil will make you do the rumple stilskin dance.
On all the other cars I've ever done a valve adjustment on or looked for a bad lifter I would just buy a cheap set of valve covers and just cut a slot in the top of them so I could see what's going on in there without engine oil going all over the place. You'll probably have to tasking something to deflect the oil from going all over the place.

Only problem is that to change a lifter, requires removing the cam(s), which then requires timing the cams, which from what I've read, typically should be done with the motor out of the car.

On an OHV motor, yeah, it's a no brainer to change the lifters...

rhipsher · 01-30-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by VetteMed

Only problem is that to change a lifter, requires removing the cam(s), which then requires timing the cams, which from what I've read, typically should be done with the motor out of the car.

On an OHV motor, yeah, it's a no brainer to change the lifters...

In that case I wouldn't drive the car anymore until you can afford to do something about it. Since it sounds like its your daily driver id go buy a POS to drive back and fourth and park the Z.

VetteMed · 01-30-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhipsher

In that case I wouldn't drive the car anymore until you can afford to do something about it. Since it sounds like itsnot your daily driver id go buy a POS to drive back and fourth and park the Z.

Got my Duramax powered truck for my DD if needed -- though the Z was my DD for the last couple of months, better mileage, more fun. Ah well.

rhipsher · 01-30-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by VetteMed

Got my Duramax powered truck for my DD if needed -- though the Z was my DD for the last couple of months, better mileage, moe fun. Ah well.

There you go. Nothing like a $55k pickup truck to dd in.

rhipsher · 01-30-2012

My buddy bought one of those Ford 1super ton King Ranch super duty pickups Brand new. $55k 6 months later he couldn't afford the payments anymore. I knew that was coming. Lol!

VetteMed · 01-30-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhipsher

My buddy bought one of those Ford 1super ton King Ranch super duty pickups Brand new. $55k 6pickup months later he couldn't afford the payments anymore. I knew that was coming. Lol!

Yep, that's a lotta green for the new trucks. Too rich for my blood...

GOLDCYLON · 01-31-2012

You have no secondaries right? blades removed etc? Mine did this before the blades broke apart and hit the pistons

Another option according to Lee since your on a budget on a hi miler anyway

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16532

VetteMed · 01-31-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

You have no secondaries right? blades removed etc? Mine did this before the blades broke apart and hit the pistons

Another option according to Lee snce your on a budget on a hi miler anyway

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16532

Correct, no secondaries. I thought at first that this noise was coming from one of the accessories, but I don't think that's the case now.

Thanks for the reminder on that option for lifters- however, I'd suspect that a lifter that is collapsed or otherwise damaged in a way other than wear on the surface that contacts the cam lobes, it's better to just replace it.

01-30-2012	#1
VetteMed Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 1,828	Risk of ignoring lifter noise? As my ZR-1 nears 195k miles, I've noticed that the noise which I and a few other forum members think might be lifter noise, seems to be worsening slowly. The motor runs great, but at idle, there's a noticeable tapping noise coming from what sounds like under the plenum. If this IS one or more lifters that is collapsed or otherwise defective, is this a big risk for the affected cam(s) involved? I am having a hard time justifying pulling the motor out, given that it seems silly to swap lifters, and then put such a high mileage motor back in the car. I have absolutely no budget for any thoughts of a rebuild, or a used LT5 from a part-out. If I wipe a cam lobe, or if the engine otherwise pukes, the car will be sitting for a LONG time. I'm not really sure what I'm looking to hear -- I know I'm probably gambling by continuing to drive the car a few hundred miles per week. Is it worthwhile to try a different (read: thicker) oil? I've been running Mobil1 10W-30 High Mileage. Recently changed plugs, have good even clean burn in all cylinders, FWIW. 20mpg in mixed driving. Thanks for any input! __________________ 2004 Z06/Z16 LeMans Commemorative Edition 1991 ZR-1 #302 White/Gray (sold) 1991 ZR-1 #1147 Red/Saddle (sold)

01-30-2012	#2
rhipsher Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Houston 90 Red ZR-1 Posts: 2,320	Re: Risk of ignoring lifter noise? Let me just say 194k? That is freaken awesome. My opinion is that your probably long overdue for new lifters. Id pull the cam cover on the side you think its on and just replace that one lifter for now and you'll be good to go. Replacing one lifter shouldn't break the bank. When you get the cam cover off just fire the car up and and you'll find it quick. Just don't rev the engine. Lol! A face full of hot oil will make you do the rumple stilskin dance. On all the other cars I've ever done a valve adjustment on or looked for a bad lifter I would just buy a cheap set of valve covers and just cut a slot in the top of them so I could see what's going on in there without engine oil going all over the place. You'll probably have to fasion something to deflect the oil from going all over the place. Last edited by rhipsher; 01-30-2012 at 11:16 PM.

01-30-2012	#7
rhipsher Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Houston 90 Red ZR-1 Posts: 2,320	Re: Risk of ignoring lifter noise? My buddy bought one of those Ford 1super ton King Ranch super duty pickups Brand new. $55k 6 months later he couldn't afford the payments anymore. I knew that was coming. Lol! Last edited by rhipsher; 01-30-2012 at 11:57 PM.

01-31-2012	#9
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,155	Re: Risk of ignoring lifter noise? You have no secondaries right? blades removed etc? Mine did this before the blades broke apart and hit the pistons Another option according to Lee since your on a budget on a hi miler anyway http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16532 __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 01-31-2012 at 12:26 AM.