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#1 |
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: STAFFORD VA,
Posts: 576
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Hello all, as you all have seen I have a timing chain to change,..I am NOW ready to pull the engine!
I just have a few questions: I know there are some folks who have recently pulled their engines and some even have it down to a science! SOOOOO I would like to know a good "how to pull it" by the steps. I have pulled a few engines but I would like to do this the smartest, easiest, safest way, and not break anything! I have the entire upper assembly off and the cam covers, wires, mount nuts, etc. have all removed. - Can I leave the radiator in? - Will I be fully dropping the tranny?? (exhaust as well of course?) - Would this be the greatest time to install headers? - What is the weight of the Engine? - Do I have to take apart the wipers to get the motor out? (I have it loose but not out) Anyway, all help would be great! I NOW have my hoist and stand ready to go! Last edited by ZBrink; 3 Weeks Ago at 02:35 AM. |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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I recon it may vary depending if you're doing it with a lift, or off of jack stands. Pete and Marc can do it blindfolded, depending on which way you do it.
I've only done an LT5 a couple times, and an LT1 (95 Vette) once. But, a couple things stick out that I appreciate when doing it is - - Beam Plates for the C-beam, - and as Cliff said, the load leveler is nice - especially if doing it by yourself on your back. - And, you'll want to remove the heater cover and windshield motor assembly to ease things. - gonna need a bottle jack to manuver the trans and diff when removing the C-beam and then putting it all back together again. Other than that, I found it's about like any other motor pull, except for the number of wire connections. (Pictures before you pull it might come in handy - did for me, especially around the alternator and down to the oil pressure switch and crank postion sensor routing.) Back when I pulled my first ZF in my LT1 Vette, I asked Bill Beaudreux (sp?) about using a transmission jack, since I didn't have one. I was surprised when he said he didn't use one. He said he balances it on that circular cup on the hydraulic floor jack. He said he finds it easier to line everything up as he can pivot the tranny in any direction. I never used a trans jack ever, so I can't say if it is earier to use one. I can't say I've ever had a hankering for one either. Now if I had a lift, that would be different. You'll figure it out. No biggie, and not that much different from any others I've done, 'cept for the C-beam PIA. Oh! No need to remove the hood either. That'll help. P. Last edited by Paul Workman; 01-26-2012 at 12:01 PM. |
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#3 |
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: STAFFORD VA,
Posts: 576
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Yes, thanks for the info,!
I have not messed with the tranny yet,..thats the first thing,..separating it,.. then making sure all the wires and everything are out of the way,... I have a hoist AND a leveler as well as a badd-*** tranny jack,... Last edited by ZBrink; 3 Weeks Ago at 02:35 AM. |
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#4 | |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 1,453
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Yes, tranny needs to come out. Support the back of the motor before you remove the "C" beam. Yes, good time to put the headers on, will cut your install time in half.
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1990 Bright Red Coupe #608 380 Stroker, Ported Heads/Intake/Housings/TB Haibeck Secondary Delete Chip / Pete's Cams George Braml Intake / FIC Injectors Coated SW Headers / Corsa Bill Boudreau B/B ZF6 / Viper 4.10 gears Ron Davis Radiator Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH NAV Fikse FM5's 285 / 335 / C6 Brakes WAZOO Member |
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#5 |
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: STAFFORD VA,
Posts: 576
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allright this all makes sense,...moving forward!,..Sccrem,..where are you buddy!,..need a pair of hands,..!
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#6 | |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 1,453
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Rich
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1990 Bright Red Coupe #608 380 Stroker, Ported Heads/Intake/Housings/TB Haibeck Secondary Delete Chip / Pete's Cams George Braml Intake / FIC Injectors Coated SW Headers / Corsa Bill Boudreau B/B ZF6 / Viper 4.10 gears Ron Davis Radiator Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH NAV Fikse FM5's 285 / 335 / C6 Brakes WAZOO Member Last edited by Scrrem; 01-26-2012 at 03:50 PM. |
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#7 |
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: STAFFORD VA,
Posts: 576
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Thats the plan!,...I'll give dave a call as well
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#8 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 3,096
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Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048 ![]() |
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#9 |
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: STAFFORD VA,
Posts: 576
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Woo-Hoo!!!
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arcadia, OK
Posts: 3,393
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Since he has a chain to replace, the front cover will have to come off. Needs to look around in there and in the pan for any stray pieces & damage.
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Jerry Downey JERRYS LT5 GASKETS & PARTS http://www.jerrysgaskets.com 1994 ZR-1, Black/Black, Lingenfelter Aerobody, 416cu in, 3.91 gears, coil-over susp, Brembo brakes, etc. 2016 Black-Red, 3LT-Z51 Auto 8-speed. |
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