Trailering a ZR-1

[95ZR1#418]

Hi All-

I have a 10' U-Haul truck with a full size open trailer (U-Haul) that I will be transporting my '95 ZR-1 to MD from MT with. I will be on the road July 14th midday taking major Interstates and driving about 50 MPH (hate me already??). I'll stay to center or right lanes.

Any tips on loading, unloading, tie down, car protection, balance etc.? Will I need any blocks, shims, boards for ramps or whatever to load the car? I need to know that type of thing ahead of time.

What about trailer tongue weight? I don't have a weight scale of any type, all the home items previously moved by professionals. The U-Haul 10" truck will only have my futon, camping gear, computer & light weight extraneous junk.

Do they supply the tie down equipment (I just assumed so, didn't ask)? I also didn't ask if the trailer comes with a spare tire? I can always call them on that but thought I'd get this post out first.

I already can't wait to get there, I'll be so wired.

P.S. I haven't called my insurance company, LeLand West (American Modern Home). It seems I read somewhere once that they will not cover a car being trailered? Anyone by chance know anything about that?
TIA

[rhipsher]

Does the trailor have a nose guard to deflect debris from getting kicked up in the front of the Z? If so then use tie downs on all four tires. And don't open your drivers side door to much to avoid making contact with the wheel well. That's about all I can think off.

[GOLDCYLON]

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....ghlight=towing


Here are the towing truck instructions. Cross bracing and tiedown points will be the same.

[95ZR1#418]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....ghlight=towing


Here are the towing truck instructions. Cross bracing and tiedown points will be the same.

That looks like a method to lift & tow from either front or back. Mine will be on a trailer, surely you wouldn't need all that to strap it in place.

[95ZR1#418]

Originally Posted by rhipsher

Does the trailor have a nose guard to deflect debris from getting kicked up in the front of the Z?

That would be nice but I never saw a U-Haul trailer with one, I won't see it till pick it up on the 13th. I don't know where I'll have to go to get it till then.

[rhipsher]

I'm lucky I have a good freind who lends me his trailor anytime I need it. This thing is perfect for low prifile cars. Has nose guard and running lights that light u8p under the car and two built in tool cubby's for the tie downs and tools. I've hauled the Z a couple of times on it cruzing 65-70mph smooth as ice. I'm gonna see if he'll sell it to me. But I know that uhaul trailors leave allot to be desired. They're just beat up.

[95ZR1#418]

Nice looking trailer. The U-haul better be good enough shape to make a couple thousand miles & good tires on it. I'll put my Speed Lingerie nose cover on it too.

I wonder if taping a heavy paper or cardboard over the windshield would help or work?

[rhipsher]

This is a case for having a nose bra for sure. But if you could get a roll of this plastic wrap from a shipping supply place maybe grainger. We use this stuff to wrap heavy steel parts on pallets and its like super suran wrap. It actually shrinks up around what ever you wrap up in it and it is strong and will not come off no matter how windy it gets. No tape needed.

[A26B]

You have a long haul, so it's worth getting it right.

Begin on level ground

Hitch height:
Make sure you have the correct ball height so that the trailer is level. If the trailer is not level, the load is not evenly distributed between the front & rear
trailer axles which will result in axle overload.

Loading:
1. Secure the trailer to the hitch

2. Crank the tongue jack down as far as you can, raising the tongue 7 rear of tow vehicle which in turn lowers the rear

3. Position a piece of 1x or 2x lumber in front of each ramp

4. Have someone watch the nose & air dam while you load to make sure you do not drag while driving on.

Positioning:
1. Start by centering the ZR-1 wheel base with the center of the trailer wheel base which will be mid point between the trailer axles.

2. Always be tongue heavy. Without an equalizer hitch, I recommend about 400 lbs. Can roughly check without a scale by unhitching the trailer after loading. If you can pick the tongue up, move forward 3 or 4 inches & try again. Re-hitch the trailer, make sure the trailer & tow vehicle are level.

Tie Down:
1. Use at least 2" wide nylon, rachet straps. I prefer the 3". Sams Wholesale usually has them in stock. They also make a loop strap about 20" long, with flat, triangular eyes on each end. You will need 4 rachet straps & 4 loop straps.

2. FRONT- Personal choice here; I put a loop strap through the forward part of each lower A-frame. Hook one end of the rachet strap thru both ends of the loop strap & the other will usually tie to the front of the trailer frame near the corners. I do not cross the front straps. Snug up the rachets, but not real tight.

3. REAR-Again, personal choice; I use the loop strap through the bat-wing about center of each side. Hook up the rachet straps, secure the other end to the trailer frame. Tighten the rachets really snug.

4. Go back & tighten the front rachets.

5. CROSS STRAPS; Because the method of attachment I use is not real neat for crossing the 4 primary straps, I use 2 of the little rachet straps on the rear. Hook each strap somewhere handy to the car frame, way outboard & secure the other end to the opposite side trailer frame right behind the rear wheels. This will keep the car from moving laterally.

6. Brakes;
If the tow vehicle is equipped with an electric brake controller, there are usually various settings. Start light on the trailer & work up as you perform test drive braking until you can tell the difference from just the tow vehicle brakes. Do not over do the trailer brakes.

7. Test Drive; Take a short drive up to 10 mph over your anticipated speed. The trailer should tow straight without weaving or walking around. Try some moderately agressive stops to confirm trailer brake setting.

8. Tire Pressure;;
1. Trailer - Read the tire recommended pressure setting on the trailer. My experience has been 60 psig hot. Given summer conditions, I would start about 5psig low.

2. Tow vehicle - Go with max recommended pressure.

Low tire pressure = hot tires = blowouts.

9. Stop & Check; When starting on the trip, I always drive about 100 miles and stop to do my first check.
1. Feel the trailer axle hubs for hot/loose bearings

2. Feel the tires for hot temps. All should be the same

3. Check ALL tire pressures.

4. Check & re-tighten all straps as needed.

5. Look over the hitch

After that, every gas stop or about 400 miles.

10. Summary:Some guys like to tie down to the frame, but I never found that very easy to do unless you have a custom trailer with tie-down points located in just the right spots.

It's better to overdo preparation beforehand than to have a problem during the trip.

Enjoy your trip.

[ZZZZZR1]

Originally Posted by A26B

You have a long haul, so it's worth getting it right.

Begin on level ground

Hitch height:
Make sure you have the correct ball height so that the trailer is level. If the trailer is not level, the load is not evenly distributed between the front & rear
trailer axles which will result in axle overload.

Loading:
1. Secure the trailer to the hitch

2. Crank the tongue jack down as far as you can, raising the tongue 7 rear of tow vehicle which in turn lowers the rear

3. Position a piece of 1x or 2x lumber in front of each ramp

4. Have someone watch the nose & air dam while you load to make sure you do not drag while driving on.

Positioning:
1. Start by centering the ZR-1 wheel base with the center of the trailer wheel base which will be mid point between the trailer axles.

2. Always be tongue heavy. Without an equalizer hitch, I recommend about 400 lbs. Can roughly check without a scale by unhitching the trailer after loading. If you can pick the tongue up, move forward 3 or 4 inches & try again. Re-hitch the trailer, make sure the trailer & tow vehicle are level.

Tie Down:
1. Use at least 2" wide nylon, rachet straps. I prefer the 3". Sams Wholesale usually has them in stock. They also make a loop strap about 20" long, with flat, triangular eyes on each end. You will need 4 rachet straps & 4 loop straps.

2. FRONT- Personal choice here; I put a loop strap through the forward part of each lower A-frame. Hook one end of the rachet strap thru both ends of the loop strap & the other will usually tie to the front of the trailer frame near the corners. I do not cross the front straps. Snug up the rachets, but not real tight.

3. REAR-Again, personal choice; I use the loop strap through the bat-wing about center of each side. Hook up the rachet straps, secure the other end to the trailer frame. Tighten the rachets really snug.

4. Go back & tighten the front rachets.

5. CROSS STRAPS; Because the method of attachment I use is not real neat for crossing the 4 primary straps, I use 2 of the little rachet straps on the rear. Hook each strap somewhere handy to the car frame, way outboard & secure the other end to the opposite side trailer frame right behind the rear wheels. This will keep the car from moving laterally.

6. Brakes;
If the tow vehicle is equipped with an electric brake controller, there are usually various settings. Start light on the trailer & work up as you perform test drive braking until you can tell the difference from just the tow vehicle brakes. Do not over do the trailer brakes.

7. Test Drive; Take a short drive up to 10 mph over your anticipated speed. The trailer should tow straight without weaving or walking around. Try some moderately agressive stops to confirm trailer brake setting.

8. Tire Pressure;;
1. Trailer - Read the tire recommended pressure setting on the trailer. My experience has been 60 psig hot. Given summer conditions, I would start about 5psig low.

2. Tow vehicle - Go with max recommended pressure.

Low tire pressure = hot tires = blowouts.

9. Stop & Check; When starting on the trip, I always drive about 100 miles and stop to do my first check.
1. Feel the trailer axle hubs for hot/loose bearings

2. Feel the tires for hot temps. All should be the same

3. Check ALL tire pressures.

4. Check & re-tighten all straps as needed.

5. Look over the hitch

After that, every gas stop or about 400 miles.

10. Summary:Some guys like to tie down to the frame, but I never found that very easy to do unless you have a custom trailer with tie-down points located in just the right spots.

It's better to overdo preparation beforehand than to have a problem during the trip.

Enjoy your trip.

WOW

Dynomite, this needs to be on the SOLUTIONS list!

Thanks Jerry!!!!!!!!