Oil Changes - Step in

[xlr8nflorida]

How many of you change the oil regardless of mileage and do it because of time period??

Reason I ask is Mobil 1 says 6 months for regular/high mileage and 1 year for extended Mobil. But what if you just start it up 1 or 2 a month, let it run for an hour and take it for some short runs. Seems kind of silly to drain it when it has a few hundred miles on it if that. Also, do you feel it makes it difference if you are up north (bad winters condensation etc) as opposed to down south.

I change mine every 6 months - cost me $60. I'm sure its overkill and pouring $ down the drain.

I know some car owners say moisture, contamination etc but if you warm the car up fully say 45-60 minutes. All the moisture would be burned off as steam no? Others don't like to start cars at all in storage.

Not really looking for debate, just curious as to what others do and why they do it.

Mobil 1 always looks dirty, its the way it is. I think its because all the "stuff" is suspended in the oil- that is why the internals of the engine stay immaculate.

Also $15 off Valvoline VR1 racing oil http://www.valvolinevr1racingoil.com...FUaK4Aodihh0Sg


not sure if that would be good for Z. I would think it wouldn't have the additive package since most racing oils are drained after a race. Also in the past, I have heard not sure if that would be good for Z. I would think it wouldn't have the additive package since most racing oils are drained after a race. Also in the past, I have heard Joe Gibbs oil is excellent and of course we have the Amsoil cult people

Oil filters - most people running the Bosch 3401?

[902066]

My 90 ZR-1 has 11,000 miles on it. Drive it about once a month April thru Oct. It is never driven on dusty roads, almost all driving is done on interstate for about 1 hour per session [engine is always fully warmed up]. Last time I changed oil was 2 years ago, 800 miles ago. At $100.00 an oil change with Amzoil and filter, and the way the car has been driven for the last 10 years, thats the way I am going to keep doing it. Car always runs great, oil never looks dirty.

[ZR1@gmx.com]

I change mine when the idiot light speaks to me... "time to change oil"

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by xlr8nflorida

How many of you change the oil regardless of mileage and do it because of time period??

Also, do you feel it makes it difference if you are up north (bad winters condensation etc) as opposed to down south.

I know some car owners say moisture, contamination etc but if you warm the car up fully say 45-60 minutes. All the moisture would be burned off as steam no? Others don't like to start cars at all in storage.

I change mine normally once a year if the mileage is low. I've had the oil tested from Blackstone and the water was always 0.0 percent with Redline and using the Bosch filter.

I always get it up to operating temp in the summer when it's started. I try to run it every month or 2 in the winter and for at least an hour if it's cold, to burn off moisture as you mentioned. I ran it more to keep the fuel injectors exercised than the engine though. Although this winter it wasn't started for 6 months.

The best example I have is oil I tested from a boat with a SBC. Valvoline 20W50 was in it for 2 years with 30 hours on it. It was always ran over an hour, usually more. It was stored in a cold pole barn with a concrete floor and it was not started for approximately 7 months during each winter. I don't know what the oil temp gets up to, but the water temp on it never gets over 170. If an engine gets condensation from sitting, I would think this one would. It had 0.0 percent water content when it was tested from Blackstone also. The only problem they found was the fuel level content was beginning to enter the warning area and lowered the viscosity in the 40W range. Probably the 750 double pumper on it doesn't help that. I always fogged the engine before storage also.

Also a previous boat engine used the same way was disassembled after 6 years and there was no corrosion.

But if condensation did get out of control. I've read that moisture in the oil can lower the properties of the oil. So...... if the moisture is then burned off, it may not cause corrosion, but do the properties of the oil come back, or gone forever

[Kevin]

before it goes away for storage
after it come out of storage
and maybe once during the summer.

i don't have access to the car while it's stored so i can't run it or else i would

[tomtom72]

fwiw, I do a LOF as get ready for the summer. Late Aug I do another LOF. I only do about 6k a season so I guess I'm about a 3k change interval.

I figure my use pattern into the deal. I go to BG with the get ready change and use that one till just before Carlisle. Then for the most part any real distance runs are finished after Carlisle. I hardly use her for just knocking around locally. If I do any local driving I always adjust my running time to account for a full warm up of all the fluids when I start out. I never just start her up in the garage over the winter once the salt hits the street. Once the salt goes down, the battery comes home with me and the driving is over till spring.

I guess I waste lube oil. I just figure it's cheaper than any corrective action in the motor, trans & gear. Funny thing is I wish there was a way to reset the oil life monitor when I do a LOF like in my Cobalt. That light is annoying sometimes.


Tom

[Rex Ruby]

I change mine every 3 - 4K regardless of the time of year.
I drive mine throughout the winter unless there is salt on the roads.

Tom - I believe if you do the reset procedure it will reset even if the light isn't on yet.

[Paul Workman]

I use the AMO 10W-40 with the 0.12% ZDDP recommended for the LT5.

I'm using the recommended Bosch filter, but if there is something better available, I'll gladly use it (whatever).

I change oil and the filter it every spring, or at 5000 mile intervals, whichever is first.

In winter I will crank it about once a month and let it warm up to normal temps and no more, unless roads are dry and salt free to allow a little blast down the blacktop. Then I'll hit 7000 in a couple gears to blow 'er out good. (All the reading seems to point out these LT5s load up something awful at low speeds, especially on a stock calibration and especially at idle. So, prolonged idling w/o running it up to blow it out...is not good, IMO.)

FWIW,

P.

[HIZNHRZ]

My Z is a MY91 and the original owner had it 5 years. The first owner changed the oil twice a year. The second owner had the car a little less than 1 year. He didn't drive or maintain it. I'm the third owner and I've changed the oil at least once a year, sometimes more often depending on how much I drive it.

The first and second owners put less than 2K miles on it. In 2009 the car had 8K miles on it when I decided a 500Hp package would be more fun than NCCC awards and took a perfect ZR-1 back to Chicago and Marc H. This summer I'll hit 15K miles.

[Z51JEFF]

I change mine every 5000 mile AND IM OVER DUE!