A few clutch questions

[mgbrv8]

Okay here is were I stand on my clutch progress.
1 I cleaned the inner bellhousing area
2 I replace the rear seal and gasket
3 Replaced my flywheel clutch face of my fadanza flywheel
4 I balanced my flywheel and pressure plate and clutch disk using my friends dynamic boat prop balancer
5 I reinstalled the fadanza flywheel useing the longer bolts and torqued to 74lbs

Okay dose anyone see any discrepancies with what has been done so far? Also I was wondering if there is a procedure to see if my clutch preload is correct? When I got my LG motorsports twin disk clutch pack for my ZO6 they had a specific tolerances and measurements that needed to be fallowed and shimming was needed to get each disk set properly. I know that this isnt a twin disk, I am using a valeo pressure plate and Carolina sprung clutch disk with a aluminum fadanza flywheel, but I was wondering if there was a procedure to follow that might ensure a proper clutch engagement and disengagement?

Dave

[Kb7tif]

No problems, Ive done several like what you did minus the flywheel balancing. Pop the trans in and enjoy the revs.

[mgbrv8]

Thank You Kb7tif

I wasn't sure if there were shimming issues. I have read in past posts that there has been issues with clutch disengagement and premature clutch wear as a result but that must be slave cylinder issues.

Thank you again for you input Sir
Dave

[Paul Workman]

Sounds like you got it right. Same setup/procedure here too. Works peachy - nothing to do but assemble and go...almost. (You didn't mention using the RED Locktite on the FW bolts, or the BLUE Locktite on the pressure plate bolts, but I assume you did.)

The clutch fluid maintenance...would be a good thing to look at now. The consensus is you don't want ANY dark or cloudy clutch fluid, and especially any (black) flakes in the reservoir.

Bleeding the clutch actuators - would be easiest if the trans is not yet installed - getting the slave and actuator rod (in particular) lined up is a lot easier w/o that 1-4 shift solenoid in the way(!).

There are several ways to bleed the clutch system, and frankly, we're all ears when it comes to a better "mouse trap", so to speak. Most methods I've seen involve hundreds of strokes of the clutch pedal, and several fills (nearly a quart) of the reservoir to clear the fluid, along with operating the bleeder valve on the slave...a real SOB (IMO) to deal with, due to location.

I think the reason it takes so much pumping and purging to do it with the slave installed is because to some extent the slave presents a "blind hole" - a void filled with (contaminated) fluid between the inlet and the piston without any direct way to flush it out. Unless that contaminated fluid is removed somehow, one is relegated to a drawn out process of diluting the contaminated fluid to an "acceptable" level.

Craig and I recently discovered (or re-discovered) a method that speeds the process up considerably, (we think):

With the reservoir cleaned and filled w/ fresh fluid, the slave removed, and the bleeder open, by plunging the actuator rod into the slave far as it will go, the contaminated fluid is squirted out of the bleeder. Then by placing your finger over the tip of the bleeder valve, allow the internal spring to force the piston/rod outward - drawing in fresh fluid at the same time.

I was amazed at how efficiently that worked. On the first stroke the fluid that squirted out was black as INK! (Ah, HA!) But, it only took a couple purges and on the third stroke of the slave piston, the fluid was clear! And, if you keep the reservoir filled in the process, I wanna say there will be NO air getting in the system (that really adds to the fussing with replacing the fluid!).

After reinstalling the slave, I had full pedal pressure in under 10 strokes (I wanna say on the third stroke, actually). Conventional wisdom says to use dozens of strokes, and I did just that to be sure the fluid remained clear. After a couple more replacements of fluid in the reservoir, the fluid remained crystal clear. Piece o' cake and took less than a half hour (car already up on jack stands).

P.

[QB93Z]

Thanks Paul, that is a handy tip.

Jim

[mgbrv8]

Mr Workman

To answer your question yes I used the different lock-tights, I failed to mention that and thank you for the observation. And thank you for the detailed explanation on the clutch bleeding that was very helpful and I will give that some thought. I hope I can come up with some thing that might benefit use all.

Dave

[mgbrv8]

It seems from searching the forum the consensus for the oil for the transmission is Castrol TWS 10W60 from the BMW dealership dose any one have any suggestions on that? I tore it apart and replaced the bearings and all the first through third syncros and set everything to factory or Bill B tolerances were ever he noted.

Dave

[mgbrv8]

Well a freshly rebuild and gleamingly beautiful ZF 6speed is back in one 91 ZR1. Wow its hard to believe my last update was 10-02-2010 geezz its amazing how life can complicate and get in the way of projects. But alot was done. I want to extend my greatest thanks and admiration to all of you for you advice and assistance, oh and Hammer thank you for the C-beam bolt alignment trick she slid in like butter no fuss or muss what so ever, I have never had one go in that easy. Now just install some new u joints on the drive shaft, c-beam and my home made cbeam plates and the OBX headers and she should be good to go. Oh and what a Fing pain to get the factory headers off and the were both missing about half of the bolts. It took me a little over two hours and almost every special tool in my arsenal.

Thanks again Gentlemen
Dave

[sammy]

jfyi they factory exhaust manifolds didnt have all the bolts in them fro9m the factory . if you have a fsm it will show how many they put in