1991 power key cylinder repair

[KGV]

Hi,

Today the power key cylinder in my 1991 came loose from the console. It still works, but it now moves forward and backward in the console. Is there a clip that holds it in place, and if so, how difficult is it to remove the cover to fix the clip?

Thanks,

Ken

[ZR1Vette]

Just remove the center console and the clip in question will be accessible

[tomtom72]

It is as Mike says Ken, but from your question I would think that you have never been behind the center waterfall where the power key cylinder lives?

Just in case this is the first time you have the need to remove the radio & A/C & DIC dress plate I would just give you the quick run down on the job. Forgive me if this is not the case.

The center A/C register has two screws that have to come out and then the register is free.

Shifter/ash tray console and the center A/C system register have to come off first before you can get to the fasteners that hold the radio bezel in place at the bottom where they meet.

Shifter console can be lifted free by locating the screw ( just 1 ) under the cup holder/ash tray fillers, and the 2 screws just inside the console door under the felt at the extreme fwd end of the compartment. Some say that the console can be moved enough with out pulling the shift knob? I have never tried that. You need the shifter/ash tray console out of the way of the bottom of the radio bezel as there are 2 screws hiding at that bezel's base.

To get the shifter console out completely ( which is what I do ) the pattern plate is plastic so be aware. Small thin screwdriver and pry it up & off the knob. Under it is a metal wedge shaped like a T. I use a 6" pair of vise-grips with a stout screw driver thru the jaw gap and wack the screw driver shaft alternating blows and the "T" will come straight up. Next unscrew the knob and then on the reverse lock collar is a 1.5 mm (?) hex screw to back out so that collar lifts off. Now discon the plugs for the light and lighter, and the shift console can be removed & placed aside. Oh, mind the hex screw torque as it threads into plastic...

Now the radio/power key bezel has 2 screws at the top where the A/C register was, and 2 at the bottom where the front edge of the shifter console was....having too much fun yet? One note of caution on this bezel. There are two spring clip fasteners that insert into bosses, L & R sides, at about the level of the radio opening. You have to work your fingers under the bezel plastic a bit to make sure you apply the pull near those clips or you could break the bezel in half. Once all the screws are out and you pull on the sides of the bezel the location of those spring clips will be easy to locate. Then you must discon the plug to the power switch and the bezel and switch can come free and the clip should be lying somewhere just behind the removed bezel.

As the FSM says: "Assembly is the reverse." Just be mindful of the spring clips as mine took a bit of force to get out and back in so pressure in the wrong area of the bezel might have a very bad result.


Tom

[KGV]

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I have never had the console out, so these instructions will be very useful.

Thanks

Ken

[secondchance]

FYI - 2 screws in the air vents are torx head.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by secondchance

FYI - 2 screws in the air vents are torx head.

Not true in a 91 My pops 96 a different story. Maybe a change 94 MY up ?

[Z51JEFF]

Originally Posted by secondchance

FYI - 2 screws in the air vents are torx head.

Not on the early 91s,these are Phillips heads and ALOT of force in the head is required to get them out.I now have the Torqs screws,rape the heads of these Phillips head screws and they will never come out.

[tomtom72]

Originally Posted by KGV

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I have never had the console out, so these instructions will be very useful.

Thanks

Ken

No problem Ken! Glad to be of help. Yes, ( good call Yun! ) the air register screws can be a pain to remove. Examine them closely as to what head configuration that they have....mine were not Torx in my 90 rather they were a variant of a phillips head configuration called "posi-drive" and the snap on guy got a good laugh from me trying to get the correct bit. A #2 phillips works as long as it's a fresh bit. I used a #2 phillips screw driver with a good tip and a nut at the end of the shank so you can slide a box wrench on to it. This way you can push on the screw and use the wrench to turn the screw driver at the same time. I found that I needed to have a fair amount of down force or the bit would turn up and out of the screw head.

The air register screws and the clips on the radio bezel were the only "traps" that I found on this job. Go slow and eye up the situation and you will see this is not a hard job. Just a lot of time consuming busy work. The first time I did this job, radio head unit needed repairs, it was about 2 hours to get the radio out. You are not going that far Ken so just for getting the radio bezel off so plan on an hour. Take your time and it will go smoothly. Just remember most of this stuff is plastic and replacement parts are really scarce!


Tom