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Old 07-11-2010   #1
LGAFF
 
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Default Coolant tube bolts

Well I snapped off 7 of the 8....I thought the tube would slide off once the head either broke off or was drilled off....but its locked on good.

I shot some PB blaster in the bolt holes to see if that loosens them up.

Any ideas?

Lee
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Old 07-11-2010   #2
BOB HDZ
 
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Default Re: Coolant tube bolts

heat!
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Old 08-14-2014   #3
Dynomite
 
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Default Injector Housing Coolant Manifold Torx Bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by BOB HDZ View Post
heat!
I know this is an old thread...and I know this issue has come up many times since this thread was created.

I have to say the ONLY way to really remove the Injector Housing Bolts (those bolts that are corroded into place either the threaded area within the Injector Housing or the threaded area of the bolt within the Coolant Manifolds) is HEAT.

I use an Acetylene Torch gently heating the Injector Housing threaded area as well as the length of the Injector Housing containing each bolt. I heat the Injector Housing and Coolant Manifold area around each Torx bolt and remove each bolt separately.

If the bolt offers excessive resistance to torque, I heat again getting the specific area (threaded into Injector Housing and non thread hole through Coolant Manifold) just a bit hotter. Then try moderate torque (SAY 90 IN-LBS) on the Torx Bolt.

Never strip the Torx and keep pressure into the bolt when applying torque. It is best to use a long wrench such as this combination LONG HANDLE Flex Ratchet Wrench and Definitely USE HEAT. ALWAYS follow up with a tap to clean old corrosion from all threaded holes and in this case the 6mm x 1.0 Injector Housing Coolant Manifold Torx threaded Bolt Holes.



This from Harbor Freight......
14 inch long combination 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch drive Flex Head Socket wrench strong enough (even using the 1/4 inch end) to remove the hardest to remove Torx Coolant Manifold, Plenum, and Cam Cover Bolts. The 14 inch leverage eliminates
the need for a cheater bar on the typical socket wrench (DEFINITELY USE HEAT ON INJECTOR HOUSING COOLANT MANIFOLD TORX BOLTS and only LIGHT TORQUE (SAY 90 IN-LBS) TO REMOVE TORX BOLTS. The Long Handle Combination Wrench allows easy and smooth application of the moderate torque for Torx Bolt removal.

Tools for LT5 Mechanics TIPS

Here is an associated and related post on Cam Cover Removal (removal of Torx 40 Bolts) with Engine in car Removing Cam Covers for Inspections of Camshafts

Last edited by Dynomite; 08-14-2014 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 08-14-2014   #4
Paul Workman
 
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Default Re: Coolant tube bolts

Good to know, Cliff!

Were you ever in "Uncle Sam's Haze-Gray Yacht Club" (aka US Navy), you would know well the phenomenon that exists between steel bolts and aluminum.

Along those lines, (somewhere) I have a 3/8" drive impact tool that I bought at Harbor Freight, specifically to remove several "frozen" torx screws on the coolant tubes. Like you, Cliff, with a little help from the "blue wrench" (oxyacetylene) on the screw heads, followed by a sharp smack with a light ball-peen hammer on the impact tool, the screws popped loose (since replaced with stainless Allan cap screws).

I don't know which is better, PB Blaster or Kroil. I've used Kroil mixed with ammonia/powder solvent to release copper fouling that tends to weld itself to the inside of rifle bores. And I've used it on a few exhaust manifold nuts (with success too). It seems (to me) the Kroil seems to be thinner, i.e., less viscus, and is perhaps a little better than PB, when you can find it!

Anyway, HEAT together with a sharp wrap - even if I don't have the impact driver handy - seems to work as well as anything, I find.
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Old 08-14-2014   #5
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Default Re: Coolant tube bolts

Paul,

I've used both PB and Kroil. By far Kroil is the best. The brake pad guide pins on the Z06 calipers have habit of seizing. I broke 3 Torx bits trying to remove one in particular. After hitting it with Kroil and getting the caliper hot, it finally let go.
Used it for years and it's pretty amazing. As for buying it, I order it directly from them
here. http://www.kanolabs.com
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Old 07-11-2010   #6
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Default Re: Coolant tube bolts

OEM gaskets leak coolant into the bolt & it gets rusty. In this instance, a plain gasket is better than the silicon bead on the OEM. Are you going back with stainless?
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Old 07-11-2010   #7
LGAFF
 
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Default Re: Coolant tube bolts

I like the OEM look, I will probably go with stock or allen head covered in anti-seize. Of course I forgot to order those gaskets.....although I might have a spare set.

Had to drill out one of the airhorn bolts also.
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Old 07-11-2010   #8
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Default Re: Coolant tube bolts

Do you have one of those hand held hammer type impact drivers. I don't recall what they are called, but motorcycle shops use them. If you can get use one of those, they're a big help getting out torx head bolts.
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Old 07-11-2010   #9
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Default Re: Coolant tube bolts

Lee I have a set if Jerrys gaskets if u need a set quick....
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Old 07-11-2010   #10
LGAFF
 
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Default Re: Coolant tube bolts

Thanks, I need to get a clutch too, might grab one from Paul....I will have to look I might have a set from the 92 I did not remove the bolts....but might have given that set away to someone.

I am also seeing the secondaries hanging up on one side might explain my 310rwhp a year or so ago....
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