A question about Bill Bs beam plates. - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Z51JEFF · 10-14-2017

If I do replace the exhaust on my car I'd like to put the beam plates in that I've got. Is this pretty straight forward,does anything need to be supported during the process?

Paul Workman · 10-14-2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z51JEFF

If I do replace the exhaust on my car I'd like to put the beam plates in that I've got. Is this pretty straight forward,does anything need to be supported during the process?

Very straight forward. Most difficult part may be getting the OE nuts OFF.

Once they're off, just slide the plates in place with the nuts over the holes, and thread the bolts up into the self-centering nuts.

Bill provides some lugs to assist with positioning the transmission tail properly w/in the tunnel. If you don't have them, you can make them out of a wooden dowel rod.

I had to take the torque off the motor mount nuts, along with the C-beam nuts, "center" the trans with the guide slugs, and then torque all the nuts down.

Never had any drive train vibration, once everything was torqued/spaced.

Good luck!

.

George Maz · 10-14-2017

Follow Bill's guidelines for preparing the mating surfaces. A clean, flat contact area for the plates allows the torque specs to fully clamp down. Rough spots will allow for partial contact, thus loosening. Overtorquing the C-beam can lead to problems as well.
Transmission whine alignment shall be corrected at this time.

Pay attention to step #4, removal of original washers, delete them. This is an important step.

Problems corrected will be; gear shifter rising and rear-end kicking out when accelerating rapidly. Basically, car now launches much straighter, driveline feels a little bit more secured.
Worth every penny, genius modification.

GOLDCYLON · 10-14-2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Very straight forward. Most difficult part may be getting the OE nuts OFF.

Paul is correct it's a tight fit tool wise and they are on tight too boot tourqued to factory specs. However, it's a well worth it mod for structural rigidity and if you have to go back R&Ring the transmission is a heck of a lot easier.

Ccmano · 10-14-2017

It’s been a while since I did this. About to install a set on the new Z. Does it require the use of adhesive between the beam and the trans?
H

Dynomite · 10-14-2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ccmano

It’s been a while since I did this. About to install a set on the new Z. Does it require the use of adhesive between the beam and the trans?
H

No........C4 Beam Plates and Installation

Z51JEFF · 10-14-2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Very straight forward. Most difficult part may be getting the OE nuts OFF.

Once they're off, just slide the plates in place with the nuts over the holes, and thread the bolts up into the self-centering nuts.

Bill provides some lugs to assist with positioning the transmission tail properly w/in the tunnel. If you don't have them, you can make them out of a wooden dowel rod.

I had to take the torque off the motor mount nuts, along with the C-beam nuts, "center" the trans with the guide slugs, and then torque all the nuts down.

Never had any drive train vibration, once everything was torqued/spaced.

Good luck!

.

I'll have to call Bill B and get some of those dowls,guides. Here's ago I pulled the trans out of an 84 I had at the time and I had to -modify- a wrench to get to the top bolts,it should be the same setup at the top of the C beam for the Z I'm hopping. Anybody know what size the nuts are?

Racinfan83 · 10-15-2017

I did mine on jackstands in the garage - when I had to take it all out to replace pilot bushing. Something I did that I didn't see in the link - and I think it was in Bill's directions - was to use Window Weld between the plates and beam. I did this over a year ago so I can't remember exactly. And that chitt is NASTY. Be sure to use latex gloves because it will NOT come off your skin. I don't remember having to modify any wrenches to get the old ones off either. It was a pain but I got it.

Ccmano · 10-15-2017

Interesting... just checked the instructions included with Bills Beam Plates. No mention of adhesives.
H

QB93Z · 10-15-2017

I recommend supporting the back of the motor or the transmission when the C-Beam bolts are loosened. It will be much easier to get all the bolts back in if the transmission position can be adjusted to align the C-Beam.

Jim

10-14-2017	#1
Z51JEFF Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Fremont,Ca Posts: 3,077	A question about Bill Bs beam plates. If I do replace the exhaust on my car I'd like to put the beam plates in that I've got. Is this pretty straight forward,does anything need to be supported during the process?

10-14-2017	#3
George Maz Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 295	Re: A question about Bill Bs beam plates. Follow Bill's guidelines for preparing the mating surfaces. A clean, flat contact area for the plates allows the torque specs to fully clamp down. Rough spots will allow for partial contact, thus loosening. Overtorquing the C-beam can lead to problems as well. Transmission whine alignment shall be corrected at this time. Pay attention to step #4, removal of original washers, delete them. This is an important step. Problems corrected will be; gear shifter rising and rear-end kicking out when accelerating rapidly. Basically, car now launches much straighter, driveline feels a little bit more secured. Worth every penny, genius modification. __________________ 1990 ZR-1 #1587 1990 ZR-1 #1727

10-14-2017	#5
Ccmano Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sparks, NV Posts: 2,852	Re: A question about Bill Bs beam plates. It’s been a while since I did this. About to install a set on the new Z. Does it require the use of adhesive between the beam and the trans? H __________________ 90'ZR-1 #1461 Red/Black Ported Intake, Degreed Cams, OBX Headers & Exhaust, Fidanza FW, Secondary Delete, Custom tune, C6 GS Wheels. Sold 08 C6 Z51 Crystal Red Metallic Sold Vararam Intake, Tune, Sold 05 C6 Z51 Red/Black Sold 90'ZR-1 #1723 Black/Gray Sold but not forgotten 91' Z51 L98 White Vert. My First, you always remember your first. Sold.

10-15-2017	#8
Racinfan83 Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Eastern Missouri Posts: 773	Re: A question about Bill Bs beam plates. I did mine on jackstands in the garage - when I had to take it all out to replace pilot bushing. Something I did that I didn't see in the link - and I think it was in Bill's directions - was to use Window Weld between the plates and beam. I did this over a year ago so I can't remember exactly. And that chitt is NASTY. Be sure to use latex gloves because it will NOT come off your skin. I don't remember having to modify any wrenches to get the old ones off either. It was a pain but I got it. __________________ [LEFT][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/LEFT] [CENTER][COLOR=Indigo][SIZE=4][I][B] Now Sold 1990 ZR-1 #2093, Black on Black..[/B][/I][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER]

10-15-2017	#9
Ccmano Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sparks, NV Posts: 2,852	Re: A question about Bill Bs beam plates. Interesting... just checked the instructions included with Bills Beam Plates. No mention of adhesives. H __________________ 90'ZR-1 #1461 Red/Black Ported Intake, Degreed Cams, OBX Headers & Exhaust, Fidanza FW, Secondary Delete, Custom tune, C6 GS Wheels. Sold 08 C6 Z51 Crystal Red Metallic Sold Vararam Intake, Tune, Sold 05 C6 Z51 Red/Black Sold 90'ZR-1 #1723 Black/Gray Sold but not forgotten 91' Z51 L98 White Vert. My First, you always remember your first. Sold.

10-15-2017	#10
QB93Z Join Date: May 2007 Location: Westminster, Maryland Posts: 3,689	Re: A question about Bill Bs beam plates. I recommend supporting the back of the motor or the transmission when the C-Beam bolts are loosened. It will be much easier to get all the bolts back in if the transmission position can be adjusted to align the C-Beam. Jim __________________ If it isn't fun, you aren't doing it right! 1990 Black ZR-1 - sold 1993 Quasar Blue ZR-1 1994 Competition Yellow ZR-1 1995 Dark Purple ZR-1 Maryland State Coordinator WAZOO Member