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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Wayne Illinois
Posts: 397
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This happened a couple weeks ago & I have been chasing it since.
One day the car just failed to start (cold). It turns over fine, just no fuel. I jumpered the pumps & they run fine, and build pressure fine. The pump relays are not getting power, neither are the fuses. I did do a 10 minute "alarm bypass" procedure & it started right up and showed full fuel pressure. But as soon as I shut it off, it is back to having no power to the pumps again. Been working on the interior & got to the point where I could drop the steering column. So I tried the Vats bypass. The key pucks read 683 (#3) The closest resister was 674, I assume that is close enough. I soldered the resister into the end of the conn on the strg column. Tried to start it, and the engine will still not fire. It turns over fine, it is just getting no fuel. I pulled back out the resister to verify everything . The Chart reads "design" resistance = 681 Min = 650 Max = 728 My keys read 683 The resister reads 674, right down the middle.The keys are the ones I've been using ever since my column was rebuilt, maybe 2 years ago. Where is the alarm function located? Can it be replaced or by-passed? Possible options?? Any ideas?
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![]() 91-#1935 Black/black & gray, Haibeck 500 Cams by Pete Last edited by Flyman 27; 11-22-2019 at 05:18 PM. |
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#2 |
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Spring Hill, FL
Posts: 127
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Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it to see if the rails have fuel ?
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Wayne Illinois
Posts: 397
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Also:
Went to see Mark Haibeck this morning, he was going to turn off the Vats system in my MEMCAL to eliminate that possability. But the Vats was already turned off in my MEMCAL. The fuel condition is as follows: Jumper from Battery to the pumps, pumps run & I have full pressure. Jumper from Battery to underhood test lead, pumps run & I have full pressure. Turn the key on (should prime) and pumps don't run & I have "0" pressure. Turn the key to start & pumps don't run & I have no pressure. I have also replaced both pump relays, just to be sure. NOS GM relays. Checked all fuses, in box & under dash panel. All are good, replaced them anyway. So my list of possibilities is getting short. I was warned that it could be my ECM (hope not!). I am at a loss as to what to test next. I did do a 10 minute "alarm bypass" procedure & it started right up and showed full fuel pressure. But as soon as I shut it off, it is back to having no power to the pumps again. That doesn't make sense to me.
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![]() 91-#1935 Black/black & gray, Haibeck 500 Cams by Pete |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Wayne Illinois
Posts: 397
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Found it almost by accident.
The problem was intermittent and very confusing. It ended up being the wire conn for the fuel pump sending unit. It would test fine, then kick out. I had the key on & was checking stuff & I could hear the pump kicking in and out. So it is a simple fix, I ordered new weather-proof conns from Amazon & I will be good to go!
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![]() 91-#1935 Black/black & gray, Haibeck 500 Cams by Pete |
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#5 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,697
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Its usually the simple stuff first. We all have a tendency to escalate things.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX |
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#6 |
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Location: Southlake, TX
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Ain't that the truth! I can scream APOCALYPSE faster than anyone!
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Bill Schroeder Texas Proud! 1991 Corvette ZR1 #1388 2015 Challenger Scat Pack Shaker ![]() |
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#7 | |
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Location: Okemos, MI.
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Joe Thomas Corvette Club of Michigan NCRS-Michigan Chapter Member NCM Master Ambassador NCM Lifetime Member Former NCM Board Member 1991 ZR-1 Melon Copper Metallic/Black 1992 ZR-1 Bright Red/Black (Sold) 1995 ZR-1 Bright Aqua/Gray (Sold) 2012 ZR1 Super Sonic Blue / Dark Titanium |
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#8 | |
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Location: Decatur, AL
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Corvette95 Registry and Forum (*************) 1989 C4 Conv Wht/Gry Auto Hardtop Top Flight SOLD 1995 C4 Coupe Purple/Blk 6 Speed 1989 C4 Conv Wht/Red Auto SOLD 1996 C4 Conv Black/Tan Auto SOLD 1994 C4 Coupe Wht/Blk SOLD 1995 C4 ZR-1 White/Gry #278 Dual Dunn Head SOLD 1986 C4 Coupe Black/Red 4+3 SOLD 1990 C4 ZR-1 Red/Red #0454 |
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Wayne Illinois
Posts: 397
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It was the conn at the sender unit. It looked fine, but there were corrosion issues inside the connector.
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![]() 91-#1935 Black/black & gray, Haibeck 500 Cams by Pete |
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lake Bluff, IL
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Yeah wiggling a wire can resolve a of of issues. Years ago when I had my 68 Hemi Roadrunner, it started running rough especially when I tried to get into it. Wasn't sure what it was, but was tinkering with it late one evening with the engine running. Because it was fairly dark I noticed there were a bunch of sparks in the engine compartment. Turned out that the spark plug wires were cracked in a few places and were grounding out on the block or cam covers. A new set of wires and everything worked fine. Better lucky than good.--Bob
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2016 Long Beach Red Z06 #10281 "POPS Z" 1995 Polo Green #409 "WARP TEN"--Haibeck 350/510 package, 4.10s, Hurst, Stock Exhaust with QTP Cutouts --Sold but still running strong 1993 Quasar Blue #161 "HIL KING" --Sold but still running strong, now with more than 120,000 miles 1967 Marlboro Maroon/Saddle Corvette Coupe 300 hp/4-spd --Sold a long time ago ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #95 NCM Lifetime Member Favorite Quote--Attributed to Mickey Thompson: "Too Much Horsepower is Almost Enough" |
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