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#1 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,786
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Procedure for removeable Glasstop screen begins @ post # 46. AND BE CAREFUL OF WHAT CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS YOU APPLY TO THE FOAM BOARD. Some compounds, even water-based, can generate heat enough to affect the foam board, and make it 'curl up', and force you to re-start the job. Test the stuff that you decide to use, on the cutaway foam scrap. Maybe allow at least 24 hours to test. The felt adhesive that I used on the Painted top did not curl the foam. Still test it on your own scrap tho'. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I did this a few years ago, and put in new felt (PO was a smoker, and a ![]() I have additional headliners with the C4 logo embossed; send a PM at me here... Old headliner / pad removal: I put a butter knife to the edge, CENTER or the rear, to get under it. Make sure to hold the knife flat on the edge, to not scratch... ![]() Then you can get a hand in. Once you get under the edge, ya' gotta' pull the fabric off of the panel with your fingers. Don't try to pull it by the edge of the foam board - it will break up. Wear long sleeves! Go all the way around the edge, then work toward the center. (at this point, the edge DID break, and I had to go around the other way) Lifted. Lots of glue at the center.
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I'm getting my snappics / threads removed blindly as fast as I can, to get in compliance with copyright / license TOS on the boards here (lots of FSM pages and other copyright / license violations on my part; sorry guys). And thanks to all the guys who didn't whine when I posted those FSM copyrighted / licensed stuff in my threads... ( :thumbsup: [b]and to think I complied with a mod's request to delete a pic of him in a Challenge Car in NCM Museum, so he wouldn't get in hot water)[/b] Thanks to several guys here for sending parts FREE; BearlyFlying, WeGone, Geezer, GoldCylon, and more there, TonyD, mike100, fletchusmc... 1990 #2794; 4L60e Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless, Power Effects 3" [IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GHpfzty7DVU/UQn-0Ru2xAI/AAAAAAAAA14/08mz1p4QLD4/s445/Screenshot-5.png[/IMG] Last edited by Schrade; 10-14-2014 at 12:41 PM. |
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#2 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,786
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edited for completion...
I used felt adhesive for the new felt $5 at Lowe's: ![]() I painted the pad with a mini-roller, + water-based Acrylic Latex paint, to stop pad dust from coming through the new felt, and to give some re-enforcement to the pad. A rattle can with clear Poly, or Black paint would probably do the same. Place the new felt onto the pad. Flip back the lower half, to hold placement, and then apply adhesive with a putty knife: Flip down the lower half, then glue the upper half: (DO NOT PRESS DOWN TOO HARD - THE ADHESIVE WILL COME THROUGH THE FELT. You could see that in the 'Skully' '94 top... )
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I'm getting my snappics / threads removed blindly as fast as I can, to get in compliance with copyright / license TOS on the boards here (lots of FSM pages and other copyright / license violations on my part; sorry guys). And thanks to all the guys who didn't whine when I posted those FSM copyrighted / licensed stuff in my threads... ( :thumbsup: [b]and to think I complied with a mod's request to delete a pic of him in a Challenge Car in NCM Museum, so he wouldn't get in hot water)[/b] Thanks to several guys here for sending parts FREE; BearlyFlying, WeGone, Geezer, GoldCylon, and more there, TonyD, mike100, fletchusmc... 1990 #2794; 4L60e Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless, Power Effects 3" [IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GHpfzty7DVU/UQn-0Ru2xAI/AAAAAAAAA14/08mz1p4QLD4/s445/Screenshot-5.png[/IMG] Last edited by Schrade; 08-01-2014 at 04:00 PM. |
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#3 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,786
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edited for completion...
After interior dries, flip the pad, and cut excess around the panel side. Instead of the cork sheeting on the roof panel side, I went with styrofoam board, 3/16", to quell exhaust drone, and to further re-enforce the original pad. Cut in sections, to about 1/4" of the original pad. Decibel readings with the glass top, and now with the insulated painted top, once installed... Dry-fit the overlap the rest of the way around. The forward corner concave curves are tricky. I made 2 cuts in the apex of the concave curve, to about 3/8" of the edge (2nd edit - you need to cut to about 1/16" in the front concave corners - I got a buckle from not cutting close enough; see below):
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I'm getting my snappics / threads removed blindly as fast as I can, to get in compliance with copyright / license TOS on the boards here (lots of FSM pages and other copyright / license violations on my part; sorry guys). And thanks to all the guys who didn't whine when I posted those FSM copyrighted / licensed stuff in my threads... ( :thumbsup: [b]and to think I complied with a mod's request to delete a pic of him in a Challenge Car in NCM Museum, so he wouldn't get in hot water)[/b] Thanks to several guys here for sending parts FREE; BearlyFlying, WeGone, Geezer, GoldCylon, and more there, TonyD, mike100, fletchusmc... 1990 #2794; 4L60e Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless, Power Effects 3" [IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GHpfzty7DVU/UQn-0Ru2xAI/AAAAAAAAA14/08mz1p4QLD4/s445/Screenshot-5.png[/IMG] Last edited by Schrade; 08-01-2014 at 04:15 PM. |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Westminster, Md.
Posts: 436
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Thanks Scharde for the information.
My liner had came off during the Tail of the Dragon Run on the passenger side. Now I know how to fix. Thanks Nelson007
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WAZOO MEMBER 1993 #124 Ruby 1994 #??? Red/Black 1995 #061 Black/Red 2012 ZR1 Preproduction |
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#5 | |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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I bought the "kit" from Midamerica to re upholster mine. However, I believe that Robert DeMarco has some headliners with the ZR-1 script on them which you might prefer (maybe available too at the Registry Store, come to think of it!). My foam was in good shape so I didn't have to remove/replace it. Hint: There seems to be a "window" for contact type glues where timing is "just right" to press the two pieces together. Too early is almost as bad as too late, I find. And, many times, especially when working on larger areas like carpet (or the headliner too, in my case), the window is missed and pressing the surfaces together after that and the result is definitely left wanting. Furthermore, removing the pieces to start over can result in a poor to disastrous result. The solution is simple enough - recommended by the auto body supply store owner I know: just spray another coat to one of the surfaces (the foam) and w/o waiting for it to get tacky, immediately press the pieces together. Not only with the bond be good, but you might be able to work with the pieces - adjust the fit a little whereas w/o the third coat adjustment is nearly impossible. (The 3M Weather Stripping Adhesive is one example of a glue that sets up so fast that one can easily miss the window for best results. But, using this hint made all the difference in the world; not only on the headliner, but reapplying the emblems after the car was painted.) Good luck, buddy! PS: Far as the headliner coming off during the "Tail of the Dragon" run, it's ALL Robert or GUNNY'S fault. Shoulda known those switchbacks would cause stuff to come loose and they shoulda warned us! LOL!
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry Last edited by Paul Workman; 06-28-2014 at 09:49 AM. |
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Westminster, Md.
Posts: 436
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Thanks Paul ,
I checked the merchandise page and did not see the ZR1 liner. My liner is only pulled away from the foam about 3" along the side. How were you able to tuck in the liner with the foam still in place? I tried using a plastic spreader to push it in, but could not get it tight enough. That' why I was going to remove the foam. Thanks Again, Nelson QUOTE=Paul Workman;206463]Hi Nelson! I bought the "kit" from Midamerica to re upholster mine. However, I believe that Robert DeMarco has some headliners with the ZR-1 script on them which you might prefer (maybe available too at the Registry Store, come to think of it!). My foam was in good shape so I didn't have to remove/replace it. Hint: There seems to be a "window" for contact type glues where timing is "just right" to press the two pieces together. Too early is almost as bad as too late, I find. And, many times, especially when working on larger areas like carpet (or the headliner too, in my case), the window is missed and pressing the surfaces together after that and the result is definitely left wanting. Furthermore, removing the pieces to start over can result in a poor to disastrous result. The solution is simple enough - recommended by the auto body supply store owner I know: just spray another coat to one of the surfaces (the foam) and w/o waiting for it to get tacky, immediately press the pieces together. Not only with the bond be good, but you might be able to work with the pieces - adjust the fit a little whereas w/o the third coat adjustment is nearly impossible. (The 3M Weather Stripping Adhesive is one example of a glue that sets up so fast that one can easily miss the window for best results. But, using this hint made all the difference in the world; not only on the headliner, but reapplying the emblems after the car was painted.) Good luck, buddy! PS: Far as the headliner coming off during the "Tail of the Dragon" run, it's ALL Robert or GUNNY'S fault. Shoulda known those switchbacks would cause stuff to come loose and they shoulda warned us! LOL![/QUOTE]
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WAZOO MEMBER 1993 #124 Ruby 1994 #??? Red/Black 1995 #061 Black/Red 2012 ZR1 Preproduction |
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#7 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,697
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Finally got my headliner done using the old backing. Same guy that did seat covers charged me $40 to put this on.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX |
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#8 | |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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The replacement material (MidAmerica) was ample enough to leave an inch or so extra around the boarder. So, I was able to push the material under using a pair of thin-bladed putty knives (rounded the corners to prevent tearing the fabric). From beginning to end, it took about an hour and a bit. Came out perfect!
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
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#9 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,697
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX |
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#10 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,786
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Before we buy some resonators (or hack the OEM resonator, to accommodate the 2 x 3" new hardware that I got from Jeff (WAY to much drone right now), I'm gonna' underlay all the interior with sheet cork, starting with the roof panel.
__________________
I'm getting my snappics / threads removed blindly as fast as I can, to get in compliance with copyright / license TOS on the boards here (lots of FSM pages and other copyright / license violations on my part; sorry guys). And thanks to all the guys who didn't whine when I posted those FSM copyrighted / licensed stuff in my threads... ( :thumbsup: [b]and to think I complied with a mod's request to delete a pic of him in a Challenge Car in NCM Museum, so he wouldn't get in hot water)[/b] Thanks to several guys here for sending parts FREE; BearlyFlying, WeGone, Geezer, GoldCylon, and more there, TonyD, mike100, fletchusmc... 1990 #2794; 4L60e Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless, Power Effects 3" [IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GHpfzty7DVU/UQn-0Ru2xAI/AAAAAAAAA14/08mz1p4QLD4/s445/Screenshot-5.png[/IMG] |
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