Radiator Shroud - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

4DSZR1 · 03-29-2006

I attempted the infamous radiator cleaning and struggled with the top shroud. It appeared to me in order to remove the shroud completely I had to discharge the airconditioning system and remove the lines where they enter their own cooler. Was I doing something wrong? I didn't see any other way to do it short of cutting a section out of the shroud and I don't want do that either.

I was able to get to the radiator, kind of, and use compressed air from the fan side to blow out the crud, so all was not lost.

What do you guys do?

Thanks

tomtom72 · 03-30-2006

I looked at my 90's shroud and I believe that is the case. I looked up the write up over at the NetRegistry site and it says the same thing about getting past the A/C lines. I remember looking to do the job last yr but bailed out after wrestling with the 7mm side screws. Now I'm going to do it this yr as I have to swap oil lines & T-stat & cooling hoses. I figure I should do the radiator clean up now as some of the stuff will be out of the way.

I'm not looking forward to cutting the shroud but if that's the only way short of loosing the refrigerant then the shroud gets cut. Lesser of two evils type of thing.

MIZR1 · 03-30-2006

Guys, I am preparing to do the same job in the next couple of weeks. If you have any pointers after you git er done, I would greatly appreciate your suggestions.

FU · 03-30-2006

The A/C condenser lines don't have to come off. The oil cooler lines do , with one bolt. Then just move the shroud around a bit and it will come off.

The 7mm bolts aren't really that hard to remove and install Tom. Take your time. I used a 1/4 inch drive set with the right extensions, swivels and a box wrench. Memory recall......The front AIR pump and the removal of the horns helped.

4DSZR1 · 03-30-2006

Good point about lesser of two evils. Don't sweat the 7mm's, they aren't that bad, and the cool part is they reverse when you reinstall. Reverse the capnuts from the car to the shroud and you can screw into them from the radiator mouth at the bottom. Slick!

I'm going out there now and look again at the lines, see which ones are in the way.

Thanks you guys for the good info!

tomtom72 · 03-31-2006

Hey Frank thanks for the insight!! ain't nothing like hearing from some one who has dunn it!
Thanks for the tips on the 7mm, 4DSZR1.

I just put my new oil lines on last night! Okay air pump & horns, got it!

I looked at my shroud and it looks like the gap from the factory is big enough to wiggle around the A/C lines, not easily but is anything on a C4? Oh yea, our oil filter is a snap.

I will take notes and see if I can improve (wrong word for a rookie!), ah, add some things to the instructions over at the Registry site. I know one thing if the car sits for a few days the oil coming out of the cooler & lines is not that bad of a leak.

Tom

We Gone · 03-31-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by FU2

The A/C condenser lines don't have to come off. The oil cooler lines do , with one bolt. Then just move the shroud around a bit and it will come off.

The 7mm bolts aren't really that hard to remove and install Tom. Take your time. I used a 1/4 inch drive set with the right extensions, swivels and a box wrench. Memory recall......The front AIR pump and the removal of the horns helped.

So true

I have removed half a dozen C4 shrouds never had any issues with AC lines..

Nick · 03-31-2006

Rick, if you twist it and bend it just right, it pops right out (and conversely, right back in again). Stand on the right side of the car when removing it.
As for the 7mm screws, I solved that problem the first time I did the job. Once I got them out, they got "lost."

MIZR1 · 04-01-2006

Nick, are you saying that you were able to remove the shroud without cutting it or removing the oil cooler lines, or do you concur that removing the oil cooler lines is required?

Thanks in advance.

tomtom72 · 04-02-2006

Yes, Yes it does come out around the A/C lines & no cutting off of that corner of the shroud under them on the right side. You have to work out the left side first as far as it will come, by working from the left side. Then the left side stops against the hood hinge plate and rear bolt. When that happens you go to the right side of the car and pull the shroud by reaching across to just past it's mid-point and pull up and to the right and back and it pops out past the left hinge and it levers up & back & to the right. It actually pivots on that rear bolt hole on the right, the one you want to cut off. When it pivots it comes free...it happened so fast I had to think about what just happened. It feels like you are gonna break the shroud but pulling the left side of the shroud from the right side of the car gives it "spring" and it comes free and pivots on that piece that you want to cut.

I just did it last evening. I'll let you know about going back in when I do it. Seems like it's gonna be the same only in reverse order. When it comes free the shroud is practically standing straight up on that right bolt hole. Oh, what FU said about the air pump and the horn is the ticket to getting to those 7mm screws. Need a 1/4" set with various short extensions, a u-joint, and u-joint sockets are the ticket.

Anyone know the secret to the removal of the small cooling lines on the T-stat housing??? I never seen this set up before, so what ellse is new I've been away for a long time...what happened to std clamps?? The high fill tank hose and a heater core hose at the housing has me baffled. How do they come off the housing??

Tom
btw I forgot to mention to discon the sensor that lives in the lower right side of the shroud before you start pulling it out.

03-29-2006	#1
4DSZR1 Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 692	Radiator Shroud I attempted the infamous radiator cleaning and struggled with the top shroud. It appeared to me in order to remove the shroud completely I had to discharge the airconditioning system and remove the lines where they enter their own cooler. Was I doing something wrong? I didn't see any other way to do it short of cutting a section out of the shroud and I don't want do that either. I was able to get to the radiator, kind of, and use compressed air from the fan side to blow out the crud, so all was not lost. What do you guys do? Thanks

03-30-2006	#2
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,645	Re: Radiator Shroud I looked at my 90's shroud and I believe that is the case. I looked up the write up over at the NetRegistry site and it says the same thing about getting past the A/C lines. I remember looking to do the job last yr but bailed out after wrestling with the 7mm side screws. Now I'm going to do it this yr as I have to swap oil lines & T-stat & cooling hoses. I figure I should do the radiator clean up now as some of the stuff will be out of the way. I'm not looking forward to cutting the shroud but if that's the only way short of loosing the refrigerant then the shroud gets cut. Lesser of two evils type of thing. __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member

03-30-2006	#3
MIZR1 Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 15	Re: Radiator Shroud Guys, I am preparing to do the same job in the next couple of weeks. If you have any pointers after you git er done, I would greatly appreciate your suggestions.

03-30-2006	#4
FU Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Found Member Posts: 4,346	Re: Radiator Shroud The A/C condenser lines don't have to come off. The oil cooler lines do , with one bolt. Then just move the shroud around a bit and it will come off. The 7mm bolts aren't really that hard to remove and install Tom. Take your time. I used a 1/4 inch drive set with the right extensions, swivels and a box wrench. Memory recall......The front AIR pump and the removal of the horns helped. __________________ Frank Urbo. NCM Lifetime member # 982 Registry Founding # 237

03-30-2006	#5
4DSZR1 Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 692	Re: Radiator Shroud Good point about lesser of two evils. Don't sweat the 7mm's, they aren't that bad, and the cool part is they reverse when you reinstall. Reverse the capnuts from the car to the shroud and you can screw into them from the radiator mouth at the bottom. Slick! I'm going out there now and look again at the lines, see which ones are in the way. Thanks you guys for the good info!

03-31-2006	#6
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,645	Re: Radiator Shroud Hey Frank thanks for the insight!! ain't nothing like hearing from some one who has dunn it! Thanks for the tips on the 7mm, 4DSZR1. I just put my new oil lines on last night! Okay air pump & horns, got it! I looked at my shroud and it looks like the gap from the factory is big enough to wiggle around the A/C lines, not easily but is anything on a C4? Oh yea, our oil filter is a snap. I will take notes and see if I can improve (wrong word for a rookie!), ah, add some things to the instructions over at the Registry site. I know one thing if the car sits for a few days the oil coming out of the cooler & lines is not that bad of a leak. Tom __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member

03-31-2006	#8
Nick Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Auburn, Washington Posts: 586	Re: Radiator Shroud Rick, if you twist it and bend it just right, it pops right out (and conversely, right back in again). Stand on the right side of the car when removing it. As for the 7mm screws, I solved that problem the first time I did the job. Once I got them out, they got "lost." __________________ Nick ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #32 - lapsed...

04-01-2006	#9
MIZR1 Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 15	Re: Radiator Shroud Nick, are you saying that you were able to remove the shroud without cutting it or removing the oil cooler lines, or do you concur that removing the oil cooler lines is required? Thanks in advance.

04-02-2006	#10
tomtom72 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Jacksonville, FL USA Posts: 4,645	Re: Radiator Shroud Yes, Yes it does come out around the A/C lines & no cutting off of that corner of the shroud under them on the right side. You have to work out the left side first as far as it will come, by working from the left side. Then the left side stops against the hood hinge plate and rear bolt. When that happens you go to the right side of the car and pull the shroud by reaching across to just past it's mid-point and pull up and to the right and back and it pops out past the left hinge and it levers up & back & to the right. It actually pivots on that rear bolt hole on the right, the one you want to cut off. When it pivots it comes free...it happened so fast I had to think about what just happened. It feels like you are gonna break the shroud but pulling the left side of the shroud from the right side of the car gives it "spring" and it comes free and pivots on that piece that you want to cut. I just did it last evening. I'll let you know about going back in when I do it. Seems like it's gonna be the same only in reverse order. When it comes free the shroud is practically standing straight up on that right bolt hole. Oh, what FU said about the air pump and the horn is the ticket to getting to those 7mm screws. Need a 1/4" set with various short extensions, a u-joint, and u-joint sockets are the ticket. Anyone know the secret to the removal of the small cooling lines on the T-stat housing??? I never seen this set up before, so what ellse is new I've been away for a long time...what happened to std clamps?? The high fill tank hose and a heater core hose at the housing has me baffled. How do they come off the housing?? Tom btw I forgot to mention to discon the sensor that lives in the lower right side of the shroud before you start pulling it out. __________________ 1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member Last edited by tomtom72; 04-02-2006 at 12:04 PM.