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08-08-2009 | #1 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Livermore, California
Posts: 61
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Help please with clutch master cylinder
I replaced the clutch master cylinder today. Took my whole damn day - total PITA. Now here's the wonderful part - it looks to be leaking from where the plastic reservoir (where it meets the metal housing). This thing looks flimsy to begin with and there seems to be a certain amount of play in that area. I notice the old unit had some type of zip tie wrapped around it - this one does not. The unit I bought was a Rhino Pac from rockautoparts.
Bottom line - please do not tell me I need to replace this thing again because I may end up hurting someone or something. |
08-08-2009 | #2 |
Join Date: May 2009
Location: S Nevada
Posts: 352
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Re: Help please with clutch master cylinder
If your old one wasnt leaking why not swap out the rubber seals from the old master?
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1995 Convertible Supercharged Auto 1974 454 550hp (avatar car) On the blocks- -Scharger install ! 1992-Zr-1 Sold. Watson Headers Ported Plenum, Housings Random tech cats Fidanza Flywheel Chipped, Relocated Mat Woods 165 stat Borlas, Straights 1996 Lt4 Sold 1994 Lt1 Sold 2004 Z06 Sold AKA** Illenema |
08-09-2009 | #3 |
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,645
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Re: Help please with clutch master cylinder
Oh jez, I feel your pain...as some famous person once said. Check out this link from our mother-ship.
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/ZR1_mastercylinder.htm Call RockAuto & tell them you have a defective part. The clutch M/C's had issues with the seal for the reservior, and the formed lip on the reservior where the seal is mounted. The leak could be from either issue, or both. I had one like that. The picts may still be up on Bill's site. You may want to check over there also. zfdoc.com. I felt that the clutch M/C's r&r wasn't that bad. You did take off the gill panel and remove the battery right? You need a 13mm swivel socket and a coupla different extension lenghts and a 14mm line wrench for the line. I think it takes longer to put the car up on stands than it does to r&r the hydraulic stuff. The pedal rod clip was tough the first time, but after a few I could stay outside the car and just reach up and r&r the clip. The hose mount is a pia, almost can't even see it thru all the "stuff". Tom
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
08-09-2009 | #4 | |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Livermore, California
Posts: 61
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Re: Help please with clutch master cylinder
Quote:
Hey Tom, In my opinion, the MC was 10 times harder to install than the SC - took me 4 hours for the master and about 1 for the slave. I did remove the side panel and battery, but it was a tight fit getting past the wiring harness and cables (but I was very careful). Now what's weird is now I'm not seeing any fluid around that base as before - could I have spiled some fluid without realizing it? But why does that base seem so flimsy - are they all like that? It does still feel like there's still a bit of air in the hydraulics - should I just leave it alone and drive it as is until the air works itself out? Thanks again, Sal Last edited by salvatore1; 08-09-2009 at 10:49 PM. |
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08-10-2009 | #5 |
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,645
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Re: Help please with clutch master cylinder
Sal, If you feel that there is still some air in the system I would try to get it out before driving the car. What makes you suspect air in the system?
Oh, I wasn't throwing rocks at you on this job. It's just that my system dumped during the height of the quality control issues on the replacements awhile back....I did four of each and after the second one I could do both in about an hour & a half including putting the car up on stands. I eventually bought a phoenix injector tool to do the reverse bleed from the slave up to the M/C. I can lend you my phoenix tool if you feel you need it? Check out Bill site for the skinny on what went on and as it seems to me what is still going on with the quality issues. Plus I believe he has a "how to" on the r&r and bleeding. http://www.zfdoc.com/ Did you try to use the factory method in the FSM to do the bleed? Usually that works best if you pre bleed the s/s & m/c before the install. They don't say that in the FSM, but after my oddessy I found bench bleeding is a must. JMHO Tom
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
08-10-2009 | #6 | |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Livermore, California
Posts: 61
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Re: Help please with clutch master cylinder
Quote:
I think it needs to be bled more because the pedal feels a little spongy and going into 1st at a dead stop (with clutch to the floor) I still feel the car move just a tad (barely, but I can feel it). Also now it looks like it is still leaking a tiny bit of fluid around the base of the reservoir (especially if you push down on it)...would this leak cause air in the lines? Dont worry about critiquing my repair job. This is no place for egos (mine or anyone elses) and I'm ever so appreciative for the tips. I'm the last one to call myself an expert at anything, but I do have a very good knack for mucking my way though the unknown. About this phoenix injector - is this one of those "one man bleeders" I've seen at the auto parts stores (with a pump/squeeze handle and gauge)? I was bleeding it the old fashion way with my son in the drivers seat pushing the clutch in and holding it while I crack the bleeder screw on the slave...PITA!!!!! If you have a tool that would make this work for me I would love to borrow it if possible. Thanks again Sal |
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