Those who have replaced Water Pump to Thermostat Hose>>>

[ZR1Vette]

This bugger>>


Have been back and forth on whether to replace (is the original) so I am leaning on replacing since I have got the ZR drained etc. For those who have done this job:
-PIA
-Not bad considering
-Special pointers/tips

Thanks

[tomtom72]

I haven't done it yet. Cuisenartvette, Paul W, and -=Jeff=- I think have all done it.

I was doing my oil cooler lines, SAMCO hose kit, cleaning the cooling stack all at the same time. I guess by the time I got to that hose I ran out of steam, because I just couldn't get the W/P end to come loose. The thought crossed my mind that if at that point I removed the belt tensioner, acess to the W/P end of the hose would have been easier considering that everything else was out of the way. Oil lines, fan assembly, hoses from the I/H's & the metal + rubber top hoses were all out. I'm positive if I had pulled the tensioner I would have been home free to get my hands on that end of the lower hose.

[-=Jeff=-]

Nope, not yet, but planning on attacking that in upcoming weeks

[A26B]

Job becomes much easier if you have the right tool to release the clamps. There is a special radiator clamp tool made for the both the OEM round & flat tipped spring style radiator hose clamps, that will stay on the clamp when plier-like handle is squeezed to expand & release the clamp. The tool handles can be rotated to make access easier. Once the clamp is expanded/released, just slide it down onto the hose, out of the way. If you're going to trash the old hose, just make a cut through one side where it fits over the water pump & twist to break it loose. Little tougher to get loose if you don't want to cut the hose.

Removing the serpentine belt tensioner as recommended, does help

[Zr1 Destroyer]

Rotate the baked on hose back and forth with some channel locks and use the channel locks on the factory clamp aswell.....don't waist your time with trying to slide screw drivers in between things and busting knuckles!

[ZR1Vette]

Interesting... my ZR has screw type hose clamps only... appears the early production units had the screw type and then at some point GM/BG switched over to the clamp style described. I can get to both clamps (know this since I have tighten them)...just keep thinking 'not broke don't fix it'... thing????

[Sgreg]

Yeah, and unless you are going to be judged, get rid of the lower factory clamp in favor of screw type stainless model. If you are like me, I tore mine up getting it off anyway. Looks neat sitting on your table but when it is connected to a hose, oh baby !!!

[cuisinartvette]

Originally Posted by Sgreg

Yeah, and unless you are going to be judged, get rid of the lower factory clamp in favor of screw type stainless model. If you are like me, I tore mine up getting it off anyway. Looks neat sitting on your table but when it is connected to a hose, oh baby !!!

Oh yeah..Hose to water pump is a pain if you have the spring clamp, get the tool for it and make life easy for yourself. I used a regular clamp in its place in case it ever needed to be changed out again. If its apart replace them now.
You can get the smooth type stainless clamps they arent much...Just a thought.

[Tyler Townsley]

Originally Posted by ZR1Vette

Interesting... my ZR has screw type hose clamps only... appears the early production units had the screw type and then at some point GM/BG switched over to the clamp style described. I can get to both clamps (know this since I have tighten them)...just keep thinking 'not broke don't fix it'... thing????

My 88 has clamp style which was used throughout the production run AFAIK.

Tyler

[rhipsher]

Not sure if you need this info but here it is anyway. If you buy the hose from Napa its part#7927 it's 10" long and you will need to transfer the spring over.