NCRS Question

[A26B]

I am a total newbie regarding NCRS, so my questions will probably reflect it.

Background:
I have a 93 ZR-1 40th Anniv with 168 miles on the odometer. I would like to get the NCRS certifications that would benefit the value most. Survivor? Top Flight? Bloomington Gold?

Issues:
1. oil filter is not original. If I do not replace with a PF970 (no C suffix), how much does it affect the final score?

2. battery is not original. If I am unable to find an original OEM battery (that works), how much will that affect the final score? BTW, can anyone send me the specs & photo on the battery so i will know what to look for?

3. throttle body has the bubble plague. Should I attempt to fix or leave it?

4. a couple of paint blems on the plenum. Should I try to fix by repainting the plenum, or leave it?

Questions:
1. What is the procedure for getting the car NCRS certified? Do I have to take it somewhere? Are there regional locations, shows events? Schedule?

2. What are the best methods to prevent dry-rot of tires & other rubber parts? Right now, all is good.

3. Who can examine my documentation and see what else would be beneficial?

Thanks in advance.
Jerry

[WB9MCW]

This ? was asked once b4 here and the best answer was to join the NCRS Jerry because they will direct you on all of these things you are interested in.

From what was said on that post it is not much to join and you get a lot of bang for the buck as far as NCRS judging etc.

>>>> http://www.ncrs.org/

[WB9MCW]

One Year Membership

$35.00 United States Postal Region
=====================

Look for the NCRS Basic Tools Series.
The most important literature for your restoration project!

C4 Reference Library - 1984-91
These items are recommendations from members who have been there and done that.

Due to the fact that the 1984-93 group has not been included in NCRS Judging until recently there are not as many books available for the C-4 Group. This listing will grow over time so come back often to see what is new. Also check the Restoration Resource Guide for further resources that apply to many or all Corvettes.

[-=Jeff=-]

contact *89x2* off of CF.. Even though he is a Callaway guy, He is also a Bloomington Gold Judge for the C4..

[bb62]

Originally Posted by A26B

I am a total newbie regarding NCRS, so my questions will probably reflect it.

Background:
I have a 93 ZR-1 40th Anniv with 168 miles on the odometer. I would like to get the NCRS certifications that would benefit the value most. Survivor? Top Flight? Bloomington Gold?

Issues:
1. oil filter is not original. If I do not replace with a PF970 (no C suffix), how much does it affect the final score?

2. battery is not original. If I am unable to find an original OEM battery (that works), how much will that affect the final score? BTW, can anyone send me the specs & photo on the battery so i will know what to look for?

3. throttle body has the bubble plague. Should I attempt to fix or leave it?

4. a couple of paint blems on the plenum. Should I try to fix by repainting the plenum, or leave it?

Questions:
1. What is the procedure for getting the car NCRS certified? Do I have to take it somewhere? Are there regional locations, shows events? Schedule?

2. What are the best methods to prevent dry-rot of tires & other rubber parts? Right now, all is good.

3. Who can examine my documentation and see what else would be beneficial?

Thanks in advance.
Jerry

As an NCRS member and sometimes judge, let me try to help you with your questions:

Issues (my answers)
1/2. First, to receive a top flight in NCRS, you must score 94% at a judging event. A 168 mile car will likely get those without any problem. You can lose up to 270 points and still make top flight (out of a total 4500 points). As a comparison, in the mid years, if you had the wrong battery and oil filter (but still a GM replacement) you would probably lose 2 points for the filter and no more than 5 points for a GM replacement battery. It’s hardly likely to affect your overall score.

3/4. I wouldn’t worry about paint blemishes either, again you may lose 10 points in total.


Questions (my answers)

• Join the NCRS, go to their meetings to find out their schedule (which is also published in the Corvette Restorer magazine), and bring your car to their judging event. The chapter meets are usually local with regional meets within a couple hundred miles (and periodically probably run by your local chapter). Regional event are far better in judging quality than chapter meets. The best judges typically go to all (or at least most) of the regional events.
• Tires – keep out of sunlight and humidity and they will survive, but don’t ever drive on them (although with a 168 mile car you probably won’t do much driving).
• Documentation is not judged in NCRS events – only the car as presented. Note that with a low mileage car, the area where you will likely lose the most points is the operation section. When you join the NCRS, order the judging guide for a list of expectations for your car.

Some of your other questions:

NCRS awards:
Top Flight – 94% or better.
McLellan Award – 97% or better
Crossed Flags Award – originality better than 90%

Bloomington Awards:
Survivor
Gold
If both Gold and Survivor are awarded to your car the first time there, you are eligible for the Benchmark award.

If you go the judging route, please be patient as it can be a frustrating experience, but with such a low mile car, it will likely be a breeze for you. Any of the awards from NCRS or Bloomington will enhance your car's "reputation", but just don't take them too seriously, just have fun and take things in stride.

[Z Factor]

Originally Posted by bb62

As an NCRS member and sometimes judge, let me try to help you with your questions:

That was a very informative post worthy of reputation points.

[PhillipsLT5]

Call Tom Barr
NCRS # 26420
520- 219-9961
Barrhere@msn.com
Tucson, AZ

[A26B]

WOW! Quick response and great advice. I 'm good to go now.

Thank to all.....

[ZR1Vette]

Jerry...
I started with the exact questions about a year ago as you have posed.. after talking to NCRS folks I concluded that I would only go as far as "reasonable" in my quest for NCRS standing. Things like tires, battery, oil filter all would just be deducts and that will be just the way it is... The engine finish...as you can see in this pic (which I contrasted to bring out the blemishes more) it has the blemish issue...not bad but just there>>



I decided (maybe rationalize) that minor blemishes are part of the originality of the engine and only if I were looking to drop the NCRS approach that I would consider refinishing. The one thing I did decided to refinish was the TB coolant plate thus you see Carter's aftermarket replacement in the interim until I can color match the TB plate to the color on the particular engine in my ZR...that is proving somewhat tricky.

Here is what I started with>>



Cleaned up a bit


And powder coated... BUT not quite the color match I want


I am a super perfectionist type so it was hard to simply recognize it was something with the ZR that was not going to happen... I will try but had to 'let go' of a few things

[tomtom72]

Jerry, I can't answer any of the NCRS Q's, but I would like to make a suggestion on the T-body plate.

JMHO, I would attend to that in a timely fashion. The "pox" is a result of electrolysis, usually. Under the pimples you may find a white powdery appearance to the aluminium. Sometimes the white powder will appear as a paste, specially inside the water chamber that the plate covers. Eventually the electrolysis will eat holes in the metal if left untreated. If the "pox" is not too far advanced it just requires a good cleaning and careful removal of all the white residue, be it powdery or paste-like. Upon reassembly, a light coating of the gasket on both sides with some RTV will electrically isolate the metal & the coolant. I would also check that all my grounds are clean & tight.

If you have ever had a boat, this is the same thing that boaters call electrolytic corrosion, or electrolysis. Presence of two dissimilar metals immersed in water where an electric current is present. The current causes the least noble metal to loose electrons, oxidize. Aluminium is very susecptable to this process. It's really prevelant if you boat in salt water, not so much if you're a fresh water boater. I know, where is the salt?!? It's in the tap water used in the coolant mix. If you have a stray current, from bad grouinds, it will separate the salts in tap water out of soloution and make a big battery out of the cooling system and that is how the metal gets attacked.

Sorry to be so long winded and if I stuck my nose in where it don't belong....my apologies.


Tom