washing/spraying the engine

[viper107]

going to remove my plenum for some secondairy repairs, if I cleen the drain hole well, put the car back together, can I then spray the engine and clean it without shorting the starter?

[George Maz]

Many caution against this.
I wash once every spring, taking precautions... to cover the computer (ECM), both horns, take off the airbox, seal off the throttle body, make sure cowl drain ducts are clear, hood latch pockets have tiny drains that easily clog, wrap or remove secondary vaccum pump, airbag frame sensors can be taped off, disconnect battery, keep water away from alternator, starter etc.
I spray Platinum Dawn soap or PurplePower dilute solution, then gently agitate with a wheel wooley or brush. The spray down is a gentle quick shot across the plenum, I mean like 1 second max on each side. I prefer using pressurized paint sprayer filled with water, but a garden hose fine mist works too. Spray down the rest of the engine, suspension with the wheels off. Important to blow off all excess standing water with compressed air nozzle, or leaf blower.
$12 stylist sprayer, mist on Meguires HyperDressing or 303 protectant. Using a paintbrush, blend it all in till it looks nicey nice.

I do not rush this cleaning procedure. It's my zen period, and I make sure to enjoy it, taking breaks, thinking it through, taking everybody's advice not to make any costly mistakes. Results are like showroom new, keeping in mind my cars are driven regularly.

I wrap items in terrycloth towel, then plastic bag, use tape to hold... that way the towel will absorb any water that may penetrate.

[Ccmano]

There is actually a factory bulletin from back in the day that had dealers drill a second larger drain hole at the back of the valley. The drain tube got clogged most of the time anyway.

That said, I still wouldn’t do it. Even with the larger hole it can’t drain fast enough to keep the starter electricals from getting soaked. And we know what a pain it is to have starter issues and have to pull the plenum to fix it.
H

[George Maz]

#1727 modified ...put another 13,000 miles on this ZR-1, great car.
'96 CE LT-1 it's a low mileage, bone stock, auto
...1100 miles past year.
20180531_151332.jpg20180531_151349.jpg20180528_202102.jpg

Sent from my SM-N920V using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

[George Maz]

Not sure if these posted in high-quality or not. Oh well.20180531_151349.jpeg20180531_151332.jpg

Sent from my SM-N920V using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

[viper107]

Thanks guys

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Not recommended.
Just wipe it. repeatedly.
That starter will drown.
Marty

[A26B]

Apart from the starter, the other concern associated with washing the engine, especially power washing, is the engine harness is loaded with a myriad of connectors. The weatherseals are now 30+ years old. Electrical problems are the problems I despise the most, probably because it's not my strong suit.

Whenever you have an electrical connector apart, I recommend taking the opportunity to remove the weatherseal, clean it & apply di-electric grease, rubbing it on between thumb & forefinger. Keeps the rubber healthy & makes a better seal. I even q-tip some on the pins to help prevent corrosion.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by A26B

Apart from the starter, the other concern associated with washing the engine, especially power washing, is the engine harness is loaded with a myriad of connectors. The weatherseals are now 30+ years old. Electrical problems are the problems I despise the most, probably because it's not my strong suit.

Whenever you have an electrical connector apart, I recommend taking the opportunity to remove the weatherseal, clean it & apply di-electric grease, rubbing it on between thumb & forefinger. Keeps the rubber healthy & makes a better seal. I even q-tip some on the pins to help prevent corrosion.

+1