Two Questions that need your thoughts!!!

[Roadster]

Just got in from work and no time to check the search button yet.....
Been driving the ZR-1 back and forth to work for the last 3 weeks, due to the 82 being down.....

1- stopped to get gas yesterday on the way home and put down the window for the rest of the ride home. left for work last night and the DS window would not go up....drove to work with the window open and back home today in the rain, not a fun ride.....
The passenger window works fine, but when you engage the driver's window switch, nothing....the volts will drop slightly when moving the switch.
I guess this could be a switch problem, or a motor problem? what is the first thing that I should check for???

2- change oil light came on today and not even 4K since last year when I changed the oil. I did not reset the oil life monitor, which I am assuming it is reading the PO's previous oil change before me.....just looking for clarification, don't want the oil sit there if it needs a change....

thanks for any info, always appreciated.......

[We Gone]

Just reset the change oil light, Mine are always off as I change oil on my schedule not thy the light I think it goes off mileage.

Your going to have to remove the door panel to check the window. If the voltage drops its most likely stuck or the motor is bad, sometimes just unplugging and re plugging will work.

[Hib Halverson]

Originally Posted by We Gone

Just reset the change oil light, Mine are always off as I change oil on my schedule not thy the light I think it goes off mileage.
(snip)

The oil life monitor has only two inputs.
1) number of engine revolutions since last reset
2) oil temperature history since last reset.

That data is run though software GM has developed. The light comes on when the oil's additive package is likely near exhausted.

If you use factory fill oil or equivalent, the OLM is very accurate except for two things
1) it should be ignored if the engine is operated off road or inroad in dusty environments
2) the engine is subjected to frequent starts without warm ups.

The question then comes when someone is using a better oil.

I use Red Line 10W30 in my LT5 and change it every two years or at 150% of oil life.

[Funracer]

My DS side window does not go up on occasion. Years ago it quite completely.
It turned out to be the switch in the door. Remove the switch and clean the contacts.
Can't remeber too much about it but I might have taken the switch apart to get at
some of the copper.

I did this 7 or 8 years ago and it just now started to do it again. If
you cant get to it right away try pushing the switch forward from the outside
back corner or some other odd angle. Thats what I'm doing now to make it go up.

The biggest concern for me then as now is that I cannot secure the car if the window
will not close.

Try the switch first before you dig deeper. Might be as easy as that.

Regards

[WARP TEN]

Originally Posted by Funracer

My DS side window does not go up on occasion. Years ago it quite completely.
It turned out to be the switch in the door. Remove the switch and clean the contacts.
Can't remeber too much about it but I might have taken the switch apart to get at
some of the copper.

I did this 7 or 8 years ago and it just now started to do it again. If
you cant get to it right away try pushing the switch forward from the outside
back corner or some other odd angle. Thats what I'm doing now to make it go up.

The biggest concern for me then as now is that I cannot secure the car if the window
will not close.

Try the switch first before you dig deeper. Might be as easy as that.

Regards

Exactly the same thing I experienced with WARP TEN (a '95). Popped the switch out, disassembled it and cleaned the contacts and it has worked fine since. You don't need to remove the door panel for this as I recall. --Bob

[We Gone]

Originally Posted by Hib Halverson

The oil life monitor has only two inputs.
1) number of engine revolutions since last reset
2) oil temperature history since last reset.

That data is run though software GM has developed. The light comes on when the oil's additive package is likely near exhausted.

If you use factory fill oil or equivalent, the OLM is very accurate except for two things
1) it should be ignored if the engine is operated off road or inroad in dusty environments
2) the engine is subjected to frequent starts without warm ups.

The question then comes when someone is using a better oil.

I use Red Line 10W30 in my LT5 and change it every two years or at 150% of oil life.

Thanks for the input Hib. I change every 3-5k miles or once a year cheap insurance, so My OLM is always off.

Originally Posted by Roadster

but when you engage the driver's window switch, nothing....the volts will drop slightly when moving the switch.
I guess this could be a switch problem, or a motor problem? what is the first thing that I should check for???

thanks for any info, always appreciated.......

I would think if the switch is drawing power it may be the motor.

[Hib Halverson]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I am confused..........go ahead and tease me as I get confused often

What is 150% of Oil Life.....sounds like you just went past the Oil Life (100%).

No. I reset and the OLM is 100. I drive until it's zero and the light comes on. T?hen I reset it and continue to drive until I see 50%

Uh...ok...I forgot one thing, on a C4 you need a scan tester to actually see the oil life.

In any event that seems to work out to about 15,000-1600 miles which you can do with Gibbs Driven or Red Line 10W40 I change the filter every 4000-5000.

Been doing that since the engine was new and I validate it with oil analysis.

[Roadster]

Update, took the window switch out as you can see below in the second pic. sprayed with metal cleaner on the contacts, but no luck.

In the first pic is the electrical connector for the switches, can I use a paper clip or jumper wire to get power to the windows in place of using the switches? So I can tell if it is the switch or the motor? I just want to get the window up so I can use the Z.....
Ordered parts, one will be here Monday, the other to follow soon after.

And thanks for all of the replies, appreciated......


Ted, tried your method as soon as I got home, nothing!!! At least I'll have both parts here just in case.....I tried taking the switch apart more, but it appears that these switches weren't made to be repaired, just replaced....

[We Gone]

Use your battery charger on 12v 2amps to test the motor.

[gbrtng]

Change the regulator - you can replace the motor but then you still have the half-worn mechanism. Be ready for lots of cuts and scrapes from all the sharp sheet metal inside the door. Bummer ...