My Billet alt is here and it fits !! pics and input welcome !

[5ABI VT]

I went with DC power. They seem to have an impeccable reputation throughout several forums I browsed and read up reviews on. They were also just as good as a few other vendors replying via email but were the only ones that were promising fitment and seemed like were confident it would fit my zr-1. Its a 180 amp. is much more efficient especially when hot. has high quality bearings and will pump out a ton more amperage at idle, and be much more efficient and handle higher rpms vs stock.

I received the alternator today and bolted it up. It does fit, the pulley lines up etc but there were a few things that we discussed that didn't turn up as planned.

First I had asked for black anodizing, and received billet aluminum. May have gotten lost in the multiple emails we exchanged so not too big of a deal as I may take it apart and anodize the front and back casing over the winter. On the other hand I couldn't decide between bare aluminum and black so its not such a bad thing lol.

Second the power bolt is on the side. We had discussed it to exit at the rear. This may or may not have been a mistake or intentional but it was located at 10 o clock (if facing the pulley) so the location should work regardless.

Thirdly the power connector they included for the oval plug has 2 wires while my plug has 3 wires. I emailed them and am waiting for a reply but I figured I'd ask here as im sure someone would know what to do there?

Here are some mockup photos. the top ear seems on the thin side. I may add washers there. the bottom ear included a sleeve and fits almost perfectly. ABout a 1mm gap but my ground wire fits in there perfectly which runs to the battery so I used that there.


Fresh in the box !


mocked up in place. Pretty sure the hot wire is in a spot that should work.



gap at the outer ear. will shim
it up



oem plug on the right, provided plug on the left. thoughts? what are our 3 wires for ?

[KJL]

Very frustrating. I purchased a chrome power master alternator from Summit. Shown to fit the ZR1.......wrong. It has been awhile sense I have done any extensive part replacement type projects. Too bad there isn't more that can be done to stop manufactures from making false statements regarding their products.

[GOLDCYLON]

Well I like it but could or would they just simply completely redone a factory alternator to avoid all these issues. Seems to be close but no cigar. I do like the aggressive finning although. If they just could have mated the aggressive front end with a stock backend... Or maybe they still can with the correct black annodizing you wanted?

[5ABI VT]

These alternators are completely different than stock. They are a call denso hairpin models with a billet front casing to basically retrofit these newer alternators into older cars. From what I've read, the small hairpins basically blow away the factory alternators in every way possible. So using a factory rear is just out of the question really there wouldn't be anything to gain except a billet casing.

So far, the only thing they've gotten wrong is the ear thickness on the outer mount. I'll measure this and send it back to them just in case anyone does order in the future but 1-2 washers will easily make everything snug in there. Besides that I'm not too big of a fan of the spikey fun look and I can easily have it powdercoated or anodized when I want. As for the side post vs rear post, they haven't replied just yet but every denso alt i can google has a side post so maybe it wasn't possible ? Not sure yet there.

The only thing in confused about is the wiring. Anyone know off hand what the 3 factory wires in the harness are for ?

[GOLDCYLON]

Make sense, I actually like the side mounted battery mount. The mount at the rear sucks. Ive packed away my electrical suppliment since Im moving maybe somebody will chime in. I love the billet personally, love the buzzsaw look and im surprised Cliff isnt all over this.... Yet

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by 5ABI VT

I went with DC power. Its a 180 amp. What exactly did you ask for in case I want one identical? What Alternator selections did you make on the DC Power Web Site?

I received the alternator today and bolted it up. It does fit, the pulley lines up etc but there were a few things that we discussed that didn't turn up as planned.

First I had asked for black anodizing, and received billet aluminum. I like Billet Aluminum and would ask specifically for Billet.

Second the power bolt is on the side. We had discussed it to exit at the rear. This may or may not have been a mistake or intentional but it was located at 10 o clock (if facing the pulley) so the location should work regardless. I think that is better location like Daryll suggests also.

Thirdly the power connector they included for the oval plug has 2 wires while my plug has 3 wires. I emailed them and am waiting for a reply but I figured I'd ask here as im sure someone would know what to do there? Let us know what exactly to ask for when you get this figured out.

Here are some mockup photos. the top ear seems on the thin side. I may add washers there. the bottom ear included a sleeve and fits almost perfectly. ABout a 1mm gap but my ground wire fits in there perfectly which runs to the battery so I used that there. Looks good...give us a photo when you get the Plenum back in position.

Some questions in red......

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Make sense, I actually like the side mounted battery mount. The mount at the rear sucks. Ive packed away my electrical suppliment since Im moving maybe somebody will chime in. I love the billet personally, love the buzzsaw look and im surprised Cliff isnt all over this.... Yet

Cliff IS all over it.....
Have not bought one ........yeeeeeeeeet...
But thinking

[-=Jeff=-]

here is the wiring of the Alternator.. better to show an image than explain it

Sorry this was a quick picture taken late with my phone:


looking at the OEM connector in your picture there are 3 wires on terminals S,F & L

S = RED = direct from Fusible link @ battery
F = (VIN J is BRN, VIN 8 PNK/BLK) Comes form Hot in RUN
L = BRN, this is for the Battery light on the Dash..

There are 3 pins on the Alt side of the new connector, you will need to confirm which is which with them.. Not knowing the module model and exact pin configuration, You will use all 3 pins

S = Sense
L = Lamp
F = Ignition (I think) as I don't believe ours feed into the ECM

[GOLDCYLON]

Yep unpinning the connectors should not be an issue with the pack tools however I dont not know what goes where as we dont know what the alt uses for what. They will need to let you know that as well. When you figure it out and get the plenum back in place please follow up and let us know. GC

[-=Jeff=-]

Oh yeah what was the cost for this Alt? your last post just had a range for cost

[5ABI VT]

Thanks for the replies .. Have a few things to do and then I'm going to have some time to look into the wiring and answer all the questions as best I can. Wiring isn't my forte I have to admit I'm pretty clueless at first glance at what I'm looking at. I do have a FSM I was looking for stereo diagrams and couldn't find anything .. I'm guessing that the charging system would be though.

Total cost was $443 usd for the alt. They offer several colors and anodizing too. One thing I learned about doing the wiring upgrade is that making better battery or grounds isn't just for stereos etc. Like modifying the other parts of a car to make them better.. The electrical system from the factory can be much improved apon. Dimming lights, faster power windows, better battery life. Better grounds and amperage keeps the ignition system happy too which really convinced me to go this route. This amp puts out at idle what the stock cs144 will do maximum, and won't even match it when it's hot.

Really happy to hear the side post is favorable. They did put it in the best and only spot I think possible (assuming the case can rotate in 4 positions). To try and answer what I asked for, I sent tons of photos and measurements as best I could to them. Ear to ear seems to be the only one that was important and seems the only thing off is slight thickness of the outer ear. I'm sure for future orders they can make the adjustment . I'll be measuring the gap and post it here as well as email dc about it.