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09-29-2014 | #1 |
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: ATL. GA.
Posts: 2,170
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Rattle Can Engine Refinish.
This is my 93
So after reading about this for months I thought it was time to give it a try. I am going to preform this without removing the cam covers or injector housings. I will post pics as I go. Hopefully you guys will enjoy my redneck backyard job. I am using the paint Jerry sells, great paint covers very well. Thanks Jerry for your help time and parts enjoyed our conversation. Why? A. I had redone the top of the TB and it did not match. B. I had Dave M. sign my original plenum at the gathering so I was going to replace it anyway so I could save it. C. Why not. Details of what I did and used. I will not get into the details of pulling parts as most of you know or have done that part, Plus we have many guides on it already. Materials from Jerry's Gaskets 1. Plenum, throttle body, horn and EGR pipe gaskets, a few other miss. parts I replaced while had I things apart. 2. Paint 2 cans http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/paint-l...ish-90-95-6e3/ 3. Lots of blue painters tape, cover paper, scotch-brite (fine) 800 wet dry paper, foam (to stuff in tight spots) De-greaser. 4. Thermal compound (for electronics under plenum) Dielectric grease for plugs.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-080-_-Product 5. Gaskets Plenum http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/gasket-...or-90-95-11b3/ TB http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/gasket-...dy-90-95-11d9/ for 93-up EGR http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/gasket-...pe-93-95-11d9/ Cam cover PVC lines http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/seal-se...be-90-95-11c3/ 6. Cam cover emblems http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/emblem-...ver-91-95-7b1/ Parts I removed. 1. Plenum and related parts. 2. ASR box, crankcase breather tubes to cam covers. 3. AC compressor and Alt. (just moved them out of the way) 4. removable part of the AC box for access to right side. 1. Cleaned everything to be painted or taped with de-greaser scuffed all surfaces to be painted with scotch-brite. Cleaned all aluminum piping with scotch-brite. Label an bag parts and screws. You will be surprised at how ruff the castings are if you want a show finish you will have to do some heavy sanding and I would not recommend doing it with the parts on the car. Take pictures of how things are routed for re-install. 2. Tape and cover up, this took the longest the better you tape the better the outcome. I used some 1/2 foam to stuff between the injector housings and heads plus anywhere else I could that was to tight to tape. 3. Painted using 3 coats waiting 24 hours between coats and sanding with 800 wet/dry paper. 4. Each coat was done with 2 very light sprays 15min. apart than a heaver coat looking for a good shine, just don't let it run. wait 24hrs scuff with 800 wipe down with paint prep. Did this 3 times. 5. Waited several days before putting everything back so the paint would dry. Be very careful of painted surfaces unless you have a heat lamp to help harden the paint. I kept them covered until I was done assembling. 6. I used Paul's suggestion to do the lettering. This part worried me most. I did ok, I wish someone would make a tape on stencil so you could spray them. 7. After I assembled and restarted the car let it warm up until the fans cycled to get the paint hot so it would set well. Than took it for a 30 mile drive stopping a few times to check on everything. I found a replacement plenum (Thanks Pete) The replacement Plenum. What I started with. Had a few stains and the TB was in bad need of clean-up. After cleaning with a cleaner wax it did turn it a shade darker but did a good job. as you can see the TB does not match after cleaning and painting, and of course the replacement plenum will not. This Plenum will become wall art. After a good de-greasing/sanding 1st coat of paint, will sand with 800 and put on a 2nd and 3rd coat. On to the hard part. What a mess started sanding and cleaning. Will post up more as I get things done. All comments and suggestions welcome, not sure how I will do the lettering just yet.
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Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold Last edited by We Gone; 11-01-2014 at 11:00 AM. |
09-29-2014 | #2 |
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: ATL. GA.
Posts: 2,170
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Re: Rattle Can Engine Refinish.
The cover-up.. as you can see this is going to be a challenge to paint!!
Found a use for some .40cal shells (redneck engineering at its finest) wish I had some large enough to fit the others tried the .50 but were still to small. back to tape. First coat of paint after it drys I will sand and do 2 more times.
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Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold Last edited by We Gone; 10-02-2014 at 11:50 AM. |
09-29-2014 | #3 |
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: ATL. GA.
Posts: 2,170
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Re: Rattle Can Engine Refinish.
Plenum done, I think it came out nice for a spray can job! Used Paul's tips to do the lettering, no clear do not want it to yellow.
Yes that's a magnifying lamp helped alot my eyes are old like me! Last coat on cam covers I know one screw cover came off...I'll touch it up when I do the lettering. I'll give it a few days to dry and polish as I did the plenum. The lettering on the cam covers was a challenge on the car.
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Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold Last edited by We Gone; 10-06-2014 at 02:05 AM. |
09-29-2014 | #4 |
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: AZ
Posts: 860
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Re: Rattle Can Engine Refinish.
"redneck backyard job". LOVE IT, Steve! I think the results look too good so far. Looks like you ain't swallered enough Bud to git er done right, I reckin!
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09-29-2014 | #5 |
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Warrington PA
Posts: 1,914
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Re: Rattle Can Engine Refinish.
Looking good, you are doing a great job.....your're hired.....
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Tom 1994 ZR-1 #009 "captured test fleet car" 1974 LS4 454 Vert 1974 L-82 355 Vert. 1982 L83 CFI...now a retired "dd"....Sold WAZOO Member |
10-10-2014 | #6 | |
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Springfield, Minnesota
Posts: 446
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Re: Rattle Can Engine Refinish.
Beautiful job Steve!
You don't have to make any apologizes for being a "spray can job", as that is closer to "factory" than most higher dollar jobs! Quote:
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09-29-2014 | #7 | |
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,723
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Re: Rattle Can Engine Refinish.
Fully understand. This is quite doable. I did this w/ Badger air brush and rattle can clear. Just be patient with masking. One word of caution-do not use clear. I found out the hard way that clear will turn yellowish with time and heat.
I noticed that your throttle body had bubbling due to galvanic corrosion. That may be why you elected to refinish the TB. Unless you bypassed TB coolant flow you are risking galvanic corrosion all over again. My solution to decrease the probability of corrosion reoccurring was to make my own TB coolant cover gasket out of neoprene roof waterproofing membrane and as an additional preventive measure use M4 titanium bolts. Neoprene will prevent coolant from seeping through and reaching the bolt allowing current flow and titanium bolt will minimize continued galvanic corrosion even if the coolant reaches the bolt because titanium is one of the most corrosion resistant metal. Titanium M4 bolts are easy to find on ebay and not that expensive. Quote:
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09-29-2014 | #8 |
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: ATL. GA.
Posts: 2,170
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Re: Rattle Can Engine Refinish.
Thanks for the tips, I cleaned all the corrosion from the TB and had already by-passed it with Marc's by-pass line.
Thanks for the clear paint warning I was going to ask about that. I was having a hard time finding a suitable thermal compound to use when putting the electronics back on the underside of the plenum, everyone wanted to sell me dialectic grease... this is not the same as a thermal grease/compound. I found a source for a 100 gram tube of thermal compound that I use on computer CPU heat sinks I think it should work out.
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Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold |
09-30-2014 | #9 | |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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Re: Rattle Can Engine Refinish.
Quote:
Oh! And, you want to make sure you don't get any contaminants in it, like any grains of sand, for example.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
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09-30-2014 | #10 | |
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: ATL. GA.
Posts: 2,170
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Re: Rattle Can Engine Refinish.
Quote:
I'm in no hurry to get this done been at it about a week now may take a few more, Do it once is my goal. The prep work is taking the most time had everything apart the first day. I will say I did not realize how rough the castings were until I started sanding.
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Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold |
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