Couldm't get the 94 in gear......

[Roadster]

On the weekends I shift the 94 and the 82 in the garage, so it is easier to get into the 94 and go. We went out on Sunday, and I have noticed the past two times, that the trans is hard to shift when cold, but felt better as the Z warmed-up. So not thinking to much about it (yea right!!!) I go to move the Vettes on Monday to get them in their spots for the week, and I can't get the 94 into gear, any gear...... So I stayed relaxed and finally it went into 2nd gear. Since my garage floor is at a very slight slope, it was enough to move up a few feet and then let it roll back until I got it over on the other side of the garage. That was close....
So I lift the hood, move the ECM and check the Clutch cylinder and besides what's in there being very dark, the fluid was very low. So I add some fluid and pump the clutch pedal about 15 times, and with the engine off, it now is going into gear easier than before.
Did a search on the forum and learned alot about the system. Need to check for leaks, possibly change out the fluid and see if there is a leak, or just remove and send it out for a rebuild from one of the vendors mentioned in the thread that I was reading. Also doesn't seem hard to remove or install. This may be the next job for the Z......

[ZZZZZR1]

Tom,

I'd make sure the clutch fluid is or was changed... Also change out the transmission fluid too, either one could cause the symptoms.

Do you have a list of maintenance records?



David

[nelson007]

Dave how many miles do you reconmend having the fluid changed?
I have 31 k in my car and might change it before going on the mountain run.
Nelson007

Originally Posted by ZZZZZR1

Tom,




I'd make sure the clutch fluid is or was changed... Also change out the transmission fluid too, either one could cause the symptoms.

Do you have a list of maintenance records?



David

[ZZZZZR1]

Originally Posted by nelson007

Dave how many miles do you reconmend having the fluid changed?
I have 31 k in my car and might change it before going on the mountain run.
Nelson007

Nelson,

Many say clutch fluid / brake fluid should be changed every 2 years, but I would yield to Marc Haibecks advice.

If you don't know when your fluid was changed, that's not a bad idea.

Look forward to seeing you in BG!!!



David

[8cam]

Originally Posted by nelson007

Dave how many miles do you reconmend having the fluid changed?
I have 31 k in my car and might change it before going on the mountain run.
Nelson007

If it's original (likely) then it's 20+ years old. I think I'd change it. The black, nasty sludge I pulled from mine was probably original too, and I'm sure that stuff just accelerated the slave failure.

A quick change is a 10 minute job and you'll get 90% of the fluid flushed, and you don't have to go under the car. Just suck the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster and wipe the stuff out until it's clean. Put in clean DOT4 to the fill line and give it 20-30 pumps - you'll see the air bubbles coming up through the reservoir. Suck the fluid out, refill and repeat. Do this about 4 times and you'll run about a half-bottle through, most of the fluid will be changed. Now if the clutch goes soft again, the slave is the culprit 95% of the time.

A true 100% bleed will require diving under the car and using the bleeder valve, and isn't possible on a 90 with the original slave.

[nelson007]

Hello Mark,
I will being changing the oil in my car tomorrow the way you did. After sucking out the fluid from the reservoir should i put the cap back on after each time i pump it out? You said you changed with Dot 4, my cap has Dot 3, its a 95.
Thanks,
Nelson
QUOTE=4cam;202378]If it's original (likely) then it's 20+ years old. I think I'd change it. The black, nasty sludge I pulled from mine was probably original too, and I'm sure that stuff just accelerated the slave failure.

A quick change is a 10 minute job and you'll get 90% of the fluid flushed, and you don't have to go under the car. Just suck the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster and wipe the stuff out until it's clean. Put in clean DOT4 to the fill line and give it 20-30 pumps - you'll see the air bubbles coming up through the reservoir. Suck the fluid out, refill and repeat. Do this about 4 times and you'll run about a half-bottle through, most of the fluid will be changed. Now if the clutch goes soft again, the slave is the culprit 95% of the time.

A true 100% bleed will require diving under the car and using the bleeder valve, and isn't possible on a 90 with the original slave.[/QUOTE]

[8cam]

Originally Posted by nelson007

Hello Mark,
I will being changing the oil in my car tomorrow the way you did. After sucking out the fluid from the reservoir should i put the cap back on after each time i pump it out? You said you changed with Dot 4, my cap has Dot 3, its a 95.
Thanks,
Nelson

I hope you mean changing the clutch fluid. Don't put the Castrol in the clutch system!

I use DOT4 because I use the same stuff in the brakes, and it has a slightly higher temp range than DOT3. For the clutch, it doesn't make much difference, just don't use DOT5. I sucked the fluid out, refilled the reservoir and pumped away, did not put the cap back on. You want those air bubbles coming out so leave the cap off and pump it until the bubbles are gone.

[8cam]

Actually the '90 self-bleeds, and when you pump the clutch, it will bleed out the reservoir. In that respect, it's actually one of the easiest clutches I've ever bled. That said, my slave bit the bullet - even after cleaning out the black sludge, it didn't last a day before I saw drips and the pedal flopped to the floor.

I just got a rebuilt unit from Jim @ Power Torque Systems, and I'll be installing it tomorrow. He recommended priming the slave with fluid prior to installation, making bleeding much quicker. As long as I can get past the CAGS, it shouldn't be too tough.

Interesting factoid, Jim told me the 89-90 slaves used a breakaway bleeder valve, intentionally torqued off at the factory - that's what is under that rubber cap. Really Chevy? I swear I'm finding all sorts of things that confirm they never intended these cars to be serviced.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by 4cam

Interesting factoid, Jim told me the 89-90 slaves used a breakaway bleeder valve, intentionally torqued off at the factory - that's what is under that rubber cap. Really Chevy? I swear I'm finding all sorts of things that confirm they never intended these cars to be serviced.

hmm I never heard that one but yeah it does not surprise me. Im sure WV would know for sure

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Dave (WV ZR-) is a wealth of knowledge for part numbers and this type of stuff. Always enjoy reading when he contributes these things. Thanks!!!!