Clutch Reservoir Empty

[emmvette]

64 degrees, what a great day to come home after work and fire up the beast from its long winter sleep! Started right up after reconnecting the battery. Tried to put it in reverse and back out of the garage and the clutch pedal went right to the floor. Wow, I don't remember it being that way....

After figuring out the reservoir was hiding under the ECM, I found it to be basically empty except for a small bit of sludge that I sucked out. So for now, my car is under a lift with another car above it and I can't back it out to work on it. My question is can I just fill the reservoir and do some clutch pumps to get it to work enough to move it around so I can work on it?

If so, can somebody give me the quick list of how to do this? Is it as simple as leaving the reservoir lid off and doing some slow, half strokes with the clutch pedal, or is there something else that has to be done?

I see in the Solutions sections mention of a bleeder on the slave, but I can't get to it where the car sits.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by emmvette

My question is can I just fill the reservoir and do some clutch pumps to get it to work enough to move it around so I can work on it?

If so, can somebody give me the quick list of how to do this? Is it as simple as leaving the reservoir lid off and doing some slow, half strokes with the clutch pedal, or is there something else that has to be done?

I see in the Solutions sections mention of a bleeder on the slave, but I can't get to it where the car sits.

This just happened to me on a 90' I drove home on 4th of March.....Just wipe out the black sludge (clean) and add Dot 3 or Dot 4. Fill to within 1/2 inch of top and leave open while pumping the clutch slowly (full strokes) in and hold...then slowly out and wait a minute..then repeat about 10 times. You will have plenty clutch. Just look underneath next few days to determine if you have a leak or you just ran out of clutch fluid slowly.

Lift off ECM and rotate out of way. Take a large Channel Lock that will grip firmly around plastic reservoir and another large Channel Lock that will grip around cap....twist cap (loosen) counterclockwise.

[emmvette]

Got it for tonight, thank you for the affirmation! It's time to get my spring to do list in order and start working / learning with the car so when the warm days come she will be ready. Maybe its a "He"; it does have a lot of attitude. Then again so does my better half...

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by emmvette

Got it for tonight, thank you for the affirmation! It's time to get my spring to do list in order and start working / learning with the car so when the warm days come she will be ready. Maybe its a "He"; it does have a lot of attitude. Then again so does my better half...

If you see no leaks on the floor but still have a soft clutch.....it is leaking internally (leaking back). Then time to rebuild Clutch Slave Cylinder or Master Cylinder. Or buy a new clutch Slave Cylinder.

Just drove my 90' out tonight after a top end rebuild and found Clutch Slave leaking internally. Will replace both Clutch Slave and Master Cylinders tomorrow with a used unit still connected Master to Slave.

Oh....Them new RC injectors are MIGHTY FINE.....cured a bit of a hesitation with Full Power Switch ON

[Mr Blue]

Originally Posted by emmvette

Maybe its a "He"; it does have a lot of attitude. Then again so does my better half...

Thats how the moniker Mr. Blue came to be. My wife said the ZR-1 had too much power and additude (testosterone) for a feminine title. so she claims. She named the car Mr. Blue, so that became my forum I.D.
Good luck with the clutch. Post the outcome.

David

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by emmvette

...snip....
My question is can I just fill the reservoir and do some clutch pumps to get it to work enough to move it around so I can work on it?

...snip....

I'd push it around if necessary. First thing to do is
inspect the bell housing for fluid before any newly added fluid splashes around on the clutch plate. (mistake)

[XfireZ51]

Check to see if your driver's side carpet is wet w oil. Up the firewall. I change my fluid using Ranger's method. Makes it real easy to keep fresh fluid in there.

[emmvette]

OK, so the slave is leaking.... On the 1990 it is hard "piped" in, not flexible tubing and the CAGS is in the way to put a new slave back in. How can you remove the CAGS cylinder? Can't get to the two nuts on it due to the angle they come at the trans.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by emmvette

OK, so the slave is leaking.... On the 1990 it is hard "piped" in, not flexible tubing and the CAGS is in the way to put a new slave back in. How can you remove the CAGS cylinder? Can't get to the two nuts on it due to the angle they come at the trans.

I was under my 90' most of the day fooling around with the Slave and Master Clutch Cylinder....I had an extra Slave and Master Cylinder but bleeding that ^&^*^&*%^$&#((*&(....well you get the picture. I just ordered a NEW Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder from Jerry.

It turns out I could remove the two nuts on the Slave Cylinder and slip it out from the studs and down (the hard line will slip between the bell housing and drivers tunnel). The hard line has a rubber hose section about 12-18 inches from the hard line (a 12 inch more or less section of rubber hose between two hard lines). This rubber hose section allows the Slave Cylinder movement flexibility which allowed me to move the Slave Cylinder down below the exhaust pipe. I used a 13mm open end on the tube connection on the Slave Cylinder. Loosen that connection and remove the tubing from the Slave Cylinder.

Now it you are saying the New Slave Cylinder is a bit different and cannot be installed as easy as the old Slave Cylinder was removed.....let me know as I will run into this issue myself next Tue when I receive the New Master Cylinder and New Slave Cylinder from Jerry

[emmvette]

Got the replacement one from Jim @ powertorquesys and he helped me put it in; the new one has a bleeder which makes it taller and a little more challenging to install, but it did go. My aftermarket exhaust was in the way and caused some grief along with the CAGS sticking out in the way. If I had to do this again; I would probably drop the exhaust first as it caused the job to take an extra couple hours.

We decided to go ahead and have Jim rebuild the master as well so I won't have to worry about the clutch hydraulics for quite some time. So it is now pulled out.

I'd still like to know how the heck the CAGS can come off. I guess everybody just disables it and leaves it on. If my trans comes out - I'll pull it off without question.