About to start header install just wanted some input and had a few questions...

[5ABI VT]

Had a few questions..

1. Would header install be easier without the trans and bell housing there? I plan to do clutch and the flywheel and was wondering if I should just do both at the same time.

2. Do the cats need to be unbolted from the manifolds? I'm guessing they will be siezed on and may require an exhaust shoppe to cut/loosen them? If so Ill plan to get to a shoppe to loosen those bolt before I get started.

2. I couldn't find much on the dipstick tube. With the 2" SW headers I believe ill need to bend the tube for fitment? I just saw today from googling that Jerry's gaskets has a dipstick tube seal that I may need.. Will I need one?

3. I got the headers with the air delete. Is there any info out there on what exactly gets removed to remove the whole system? Or is it fairly obvious ? I know the pump is up front etc but not sure exactly what the entire system looks like it where it connects to.

I'm going to get a hoist installed soon in my garage .. I was going to wait to do the clutch flywheel then but I'm impatient and want these headers on asap so I don't mind doing these on my back if its possible. I just wanted to clear up anything I had on my mind before I started.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by 5ABI VT

Had a few questions..

1. Would header install be easier without the trans and bell housing there? I plan to do clutch and the flywheel and was wondering if I should just do both at the same time. Not Really except with Trans removed you can lower the rear of engine a bit. See Link #1 below

2. Do the cats need to be unbolted from the manifolds? I'm guessing they will be siezed on and may require an exhaust shoppe to cut/loosen them? If so Ill plan to get to a shoppe to loosen those bolt before I get started. Are not original CATS welded up?

2. I couldn't find much on the dipstick tube. With the 2" SW headers I believe ill need to bend the tube for fitment? Yes that is possible but Paul Workman makes a clamp for that. See Link # 2 below I just saw today from googling that Jerry's gaskets has a dipstick tube seal that I may need.. Will I need one? Yes and No......if you are there it is nice to replace tube seal as well as Header Gasket from Jerry's

3. I got the headers with the air delete. Is there any info out there on what exactly gets removed to remove the whole system? See Photo and Item #5 of Link #3 below Or is it fairly obvious ? I know the pump is up front etc but not sure exactly what the entire system looks like it where it connects to.

I'm going to get a hoist installed soon in my garage .. I was going to wait to do the clutch flywheel With SW Exhaust installed you will have to remove that rear section of SW Exhaust to do Clutch and Flywheel but not the SW Headers. then but I'm impatient and want these headers on asap so I don't mind doing these on my back if its possible. I just wanted to clear up anything I had on my mind before I started.

1. Exhaust System Replace with Headers

2. Dip stick bracket

3. Tech Info - LT5 Eliminated Systems LT5 Eliminated Systems

[Lucky90]

I think dyno knows more about these cars, than the people who built them.

[mike100]

I had to raise the engine off of the motor mounts to get the manifolds off. The headers fit so much easier, but still it helps to be able to raise and lower the engine an inch just to make a few of the fasteners easier to reach from the top of the engine bay.

The trans didn't really much matter.

[Lucky90]

Not to hyjack this thread, but how much hp ,do they claim headers to be worth?

[mike100]

Originally Posted by Lucky90

Not to hyjack this thread, but how much hp ,do they claim headers to be worth?

Marc H claims +15 lb/ft of torque and +25hp (rwhp I think). maybe more with supporting mods. It certainly adds across the rpm range. Even going up from a 1-7/8 stock primary pipe diameter to the typical 2" pipe on aftermarket headers, there was no torque loss- it's all upside on the power delivery. And it is over a nice wide range too.

The car will get a little louder though.

[We Gone]

I remover the inner fender liners helped quite a bit to get to the bolts.

[mike100]

I only had to remove the catalyst heat shield, not the manifold halves. The air injection tubing is obvious. you will see how to pull it off once the pipes are dropped off the engine and out of the way. The front bolts near the power steering pump were looking impossible, but if you jack up the engine as far as it will go without cracking the wiper motor box, you should be able to get in there with a box wrench or a curved s-wrench type of tool (one of my favorites for getting around round obstructions).

[Dynomite]

I have had great luck with Stage 8 Header bolts. They are easy to install especially with a flex head ratchet wrench as well as an Allen Wrench (the Stage 8 bolts have an Allen socket. The locks are a bit tricky on a couple of header bolts but overall easy to install. I do NOT torque the Header bolts but just tighten by feel (not too tight) since I am using Stage 8 Header Bolts with locks

L98 and LT5 Exhaust System Header Bolts



Now if you drop stuff....here is the tool.

A 16 inch straight Hemostat (Ebay has many). On the Ebay Search....just type in Hemostat and the length you would like and also type in Curved or Straight (Hemostat 16 straight for this one). The beauty in addition to being sleek to reach tight spaces is that it can be locked (ratched locked) once you get hold of what you dropped.



Particularily useful for Stainless steel and Aluminum Nuts, Bolts and Washers

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by 5ABI VT

Had a few questions..

1. Would header install be easier without the trans and bell housing there? I plan to do clutch and the flywheel and was wondering if I should just do both at the same time.

2. Do the cats need to be unbolted from the manifolds? I'm guessing they will be siezed on and may require an exhaust shoppe to cut/loosen them? If so Ill plan to get to a shoppe to loosen those bolt before I get started.

2. I couldn't find much on the dipstick tube. With the 2" SW headers I believe ill need to bend the tube for fitment? I just saw today from googling that Jerry's gaskets has a dipstick tube seal that I may need.. Will I need one?
3. I got the headers with the air delete. Is there any info out there on what exactly gets removed to remove the whole system? Or is it fairly obvious ? I know the pump is up front etc but not sure exactly what the entire system looks like it where it connects to.

I'm going to get a hoist installed soon in my garage .. I was going to wait to do the clutch flywheel then but I'm impatient and want these headers on asap so I don't mind doing these on my back if its possible. I just wanted to clear up anything I had on my mind before I started.

I can help with the dipstick issue. I built a custom bracket to facilitate the installation of the SW headers, and tho I'm not in the business, per se' to built them for sale, I will build some for youz guyz that have bought the headers and don't want to make your own.

Maybe I should post a poll and see how many of y'all want one? (One guy expressed interest in buying one, but after I sent him a photo of it...that was the last I heard from him. I figured he made is own, I guess. But, now as result, I happen to have the makings for several more now, thanks to him.)

P.