Spark Plug Removal Question

[Racinfan83]

Probably a dumb question but I'm gettin old...

I'm gonna change out the plugs next week - not sure if they have EVER been replaced. 17k miles on car. Can or should I shoot some penetrating oil down in there before I try to take them out? Would using a small drill driver impact be a good idea? I know to put anti seize on them before I put em back in - not sure if the ones in it now got it.... Anybody know the torque right off hand?

[efnfast]

This is from Marc H.

Hi Steve,

For high load operation I recommend a spark plug that is one AC heat range cooler than the OE plug. The best spark plug is the NGK TR7IX. Part number 3690.

It has a tapered seat. All LT5's are machined for both tapered and flat seat plugs. Carefully open the gap to .050"

Best of luck.

Marc

Somewhere is is recommended to over tourque the plugs if using a tappered seat for the first time and then backing off. I see if I can find that. -Steve

[vilant]

Had 34K on my '90 and the original plugs came out easy enough. I wouldn't squirt any oil or other breaking type oils unless absolutly necessary. The torque is 19 ft/lbs. #8 plug is tricky, everyone tackles it a different way.

[Racinfan83]

I got a Blackhawk swivel spark plug socket for that #8 one - read somewhere that one of those was the trick... I hope so..
I will try just removing them normally and see how it goes. I got the AC 41-602 for now - just since I want to change them out and see how bad the old ones are. Hoping to get car to Marc sometime this year for some other stuff - so I can always change them to something better at that time...

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by Racinfan83

I got a Blackhawk swivel spark plug socket for that #8 one - read somewhere that one of those was the trick... I hope so..
I will try just removing them normally and see how it goes. I got the AC 41-602 for now - just since I want to change them out and see how bad the old ones are. Hoping to get car to Marc sometime this year for some other stuff - so I can always change them to something better at that time...

I understand too that it is always a good idea to remove the plugs with the engine warm - the aluminum expands around the plugs which expand less rapidly - reducing the friction between the plug and the relatively soft aluminum. AND, as mentioned, you want to coat the threads of the new plugs with anti-sieze.

Far as the 41-602s go, those are the plugs Pete and I use. They're good enough for 10,000 miles, I suppose, but I've only put 14k miles on my Z in 5 years. So, I figger it is cheap enough to keep new plugs in her and she seems to run OK on 'em. So, I see using the 41-602s as an advantage over having to wring out the last few miles on a set of pricy plugs before spending big $$ for platinum/iridium gee wizz spark plugs for no apparent advantage (that I can see in my driving). (Your MMV).

[XfireZ51]

I use the NGK BKR6E. It's one step colder than the stock plug or the 602s. We just took a set out from my motor and they looked pretty good as far as heat range. Check your ground strap. it needs to change color at the radius. if it doesn't its either too cold or too hot.
I take my plugs out when the motor is cold and do not use anti-seize any longer. I found that w anti-seize the plugs constantly needed re-torque.
Marc suggested a light coat of oil on the threads before install. That works well.

[scottfab]

We all have our own take on what's best. After 16yrs of doing this here are my opinions.

Originally Posted by Racinfan83

...snip... Can or should I shoot some penetrating oil down in there before I try to take them out?

The way I see it, using penetrating oil will not be needed but can't hurt a thing if you use it.

Originally Posted by Racinfan83

Would using a small drill driver impact be a good idea?

I'd definitely NOT use it for several reasons.

Originally Posted by Racinfan83

I know to put anti seize on them before I put em back in - not sure if the ones in it now got it....

The trick is not using too much. Then they stay tight and no re-tightening is needed. I smear only a single line of anti seize across the a 1/4in wide swath. I avoid trying to hit all threads all the way around. The idea is to reduce the likely hood of binding not eliminate it everywhere.

Originally Posted by Racinfan83

Anybody know the torque right off hand?

The FSM says 15lb for torque. I use 20lb because the anti seize effects the tightness. The FSM also recommends letting the heads cool down before removing the plugs but I agree with others. Hotter is better for removing. The exception is #8 or you'll burn your pinkies. Warm is better there

[Racinfan83]

Good deal. I def appreciate the replies! Will see what I can get done next week on my days off. I got plugs, air filter, and pcv valves, and going to look at cleaning the radiator and fabbing a radiator debris screen. Stuff I can do - a bit at a time...

[Fully Vetted]

Originally Posted by Racinfan83

...fabbing a radiator debris screen.

I need to do that as well before the trip to BG. What have some of you other guys done for this?

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by Fully Vetted

I need to do that as well before the trip to BG. What have some of you other guys done for this?

Here is one example of a screen setup. One of the best kludges I've ever done on the car. It saves SOOOOO much time when it comes to cleaning the radiator stack. I just clean the screen twice a year and that's it. I pulled a small bird carcass out of it once. Stuff just wants to get sucked up in there if you run over it.

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Inform...or-Screen.aspx