Bad battery connector bolt

[vilant]

Was going to change my battery cables because I noticed some weird electrical issues (fading of instrument display sporadically) and eventually found the culprit was stripped bolts that connect the battery cables to the battery. After I saw how the cables disappeared under the car, I opted for plan B. Was able to push the bolts out of the old cables (new one was already loose) and just slid the new bolt in and tightened. Now the cables are tight against the battery and everything is back to normal. Here's the stripped bolt next to the new one.

Hopefully that solves the sporadic dimming dislay. Time will tell.

[mike100]

Does that fit the battery cable properly? My threads are good, but I rounded off the head and have to use vice grips now.

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by mike100

Does that fit the battery cable properly? My threads are good, but I rounded off the head and have to use vice grips now.

Get yourself a couple GM 19115585 battery side terminal bolts for a fix. This is most frequently found in Cadillac applications and has a "testing lug" that you can clamp/clip test lights, jumpers and the likes to. I don't have a snapshot of these and there's no Google image that I saw in a quick glance. I've used this and another similar part for years.

In this image it's #4 and you can visualize it's appearance. The cap while a good idea seems to have suffered some quality issues the past couple years. I don't know that it's changed. I used to use them also. I also did many auxiliary sign boards and lighting projects that I used a brass similar part that is often found in audio installers or truck equipment suppliers. It has a threaded stud that you can use to permanently add Battery Tender leads to if you like.

http://www.tonkinonlineparts.com/sho...ssembly=840773

[WVZR-1]

The 19115585 looks like this except it's NOT intended for stacking cables. It is shorter for single cable installs. You can use it on positive and also negative if you like, I generally don't.

I use this longer one which is also a Cadillac offering when working on trucks with multiple batteries or some other applications where you want to stack positive cables.

[scottfab]

If you're having electrical power issues to the dash another place to check is the power accessory stack. It's locate between the battery and the firewall. As the name suggests it is bolt and nut assembly that holds 5 or so lugs which transport power from the battery to several locations.
This assembly was a bit rusted on mine.
I took all lugs off and sanded them and applied dielectric grease.
No problems ever since.

I could have just ripped it out and soldered all the wires together because there would then be fewer parts to fail.
However, ripping things out of the car is not the first thing that comes to mind. I'd rather follow the FSM and possibly refine the design of the car rather than turn it into a nightmare for some future owner.

[vilant]

Originally Posted by scottfab

If you're having electrical power issues to the dash another place to check is the power accessory stack. It's locate between the battery and the firewall. As the name suggests it is bolt and nut assembly that holds 5 or so lugs which transport power from the battery to several locations.
This assembly was a bit rusted on mine.
I took all lugs off and sanded them and applied dielectric grease.
No problems ever since.

I could have just ripped it out and soldered all the wires together because there would then be fewer parts to fail.
However, ripping things out of the car is not the first thing that comes to mind. I'd rather follow the FSM and possibly refine the design of the car rather than turn it into a nightmare for some future owner.

I'm hopin' the bolts do the trick. I'll check that connection next if it still does it. Sucks you got to remove that, (I don't even know what it is, lol) to get the battery out. Sorry for my ignorance, I'm still learning what the thousands of parts in this car do, and I'm having trouble finding the parts list again, lol.

[vilant]

Originally Posted by mike100

Does that fit the battery cable properly? My threads are good, but I rounded off the head and have to use vice grips now.

I also had that problem. The original bolt is 8mm ( I believe or it's 7mm), anyway both bolts were so close to body of the car I couldn't fit a socket and wrench on it and I don't have an open end wrench that size. So I use to grab it with pliers (which shredded the end). The new bolt has a lower profile, so I can fit the a socket in. Downside, it doesn't stick out so you can clamp on it to it if needed. Not a problem for me, as I remove the bolt more for maintenance safety, then clamp on to the ground to test (there are other places to ground).

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by vilant

I also had that problem. The original bolt is 8mm ( I believe or it's 7mm), anyway both bolts were so close to body of the car I couldn't fit a socket and wrench on it and I don't have an open end wrench that size. So I use to grab it with pliers (which shredded the end). The new bolt has a lower profile, so I can fit the a socket in. Downside, it doesn't stick out so you can clamp on it to it if needed. Not a problem for me, as I remove the bolt more for maintenance safety, then clamp on to the ground to test (there are other places to ground).

Your choice of the replacement battery bolt needs to be at best considered a "band-aid' or "temporary fix". If you want to use just a 3/8 bolt for the connection then all you need is the "slug/adapter" in my image above. That is what it is intentioned for. It fills the cavity of the battery cable and will snap-in securely. If that solution interests you I'll supply you the part number.

[vilant]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

Your choice of the replacement battery bolt needs to be at best considered a "band-aid' or "temporary fix". If you want to use just a 3/8 bolt for the connection then all you need is the "slug/adapter" in my image above. That is what it is intentioned for. It fills the cavity of the battery cable and will snap-in securely. If that solution interests you I'll supply you the part number.

I know, but the new one is way better than the old one(you could pull the cables loose). I had to go out and look to see what you were talking about. Sure if you got the # handy, I'll take it.

[WVZR-1]

If you really want to use a full-size bolt this is the spacer, ideally you would use those bolts Dynomite posted or the one I suggested that you can use for "test-leads" BatteryTender or whatever. Of course I like my choice "best"!

The spacer (GM# 12354951):