Vacuum pump? Why does it buzz every 10 seconds? [snappic]

[Schrade]

edit:
Mr. Dynomite said it's a normal function, SO, can some rubber bushings / washers be fab'bed to re-mount this pump, and create a 'buffer' effect and possibly reduce the noise???
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Where is the snooze button on this guy? He buzzes for about 1 - 2 seconds, every 12 - 15 seconds.

Is a fault or error indicated? Whatever it is, I can'T pin the rap on the shop that did the tranny - it did it before...

Only DTC I've seen was for voltage to LED cluster...

[ghlkal]

Originally Posted by Schrade

edit:
Mr. Dynomite said it's a normal function, SO, can some rubber bushings / washers be fab'bed to re-mount this pump, and create a 'buffer' effect and possibly reduce the noise???

As Cliff said, this is normal.

Can you actually hear the pump when driving? If so, increase the revs until you can't hear it anymore ...

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by ghlkal

As Cliff said, this is normal.

Can you actually hear the pump when driving? If so, increase the revs until you can't hear it anymore ...

No Sir - can't hear it while driving, but I can just hear it while idling.

So if I TIME the intervals, I can guage a vac. leak? Does the interval have a normal spec time? Such as for a new motor? Is it in FSM?

I don't have a loping idle, which is usually a tell-tale indication of intake leak...

And is the ground for the vac pump integrated into the mount? I'd really like to fab up some cushion into mounting bushings...

[ghlkal]

Originally Posted by Schrade

So if I TIME the intervals, I can guage a vac. leak? Does the interval have a normal spec time? Such as for a new motor? Is it in FSM?

I don't know what "normal" should be. Mine starts up every 15 seconds or so like yours. Marc H told me that as long as the pump shuts off for a few seconds then it is "in specs."

[scottfab]

This is not normal. 10sec is too short of an interval.
It's easy to get it to 30sec or more.

DON'T rip it all out !
Just fix it like you would a burned out light bulb.
You also should not trade the car in for a new one
when the ash tray is full.

Start with the basics.
Find the hard plastic hose that comes out of the pump and
pull it out. Then put you finger over the side coming from the pump.
It should run a bit then stop for an indefinite period of time.
Report back then we can direct you to the next step.
(or find the old thread that covers this to send you too)

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Or just remove it and never have to worry about it again

On a side note------I did the Ash Tray Relocation mod and put it in the center console for quarters for the car wash. No ash tray, no temptation to sell the car........

[WVZR-1]

You also have a cruise that doesn't work so I wouldn't panic regarding this. From the appearance of some of the install, the fact that they did a "pedal swap" I'm quite sure you'll find solutions in your search. You might check and see if your CHMSL works. They may have not understood the function of the switch that does the vacuum for the cruise and the 12V to the CHMSL!

You might have a few more surprises.

Patience!

[Hib Halverson]

"scottfab" and other are correct.

If you're secondary vac. pump runs that often, you have a leak or a faulty component somewhere in the secondary port throttle vacuum system.

Troubleshoot the port throttles using the information in the FSM.

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by scottfab and Dynomite
This is not normal. 10sec is too short of an interval. 12-15 seconds is stated in first post.
I see. And the pump is also mentioned, however, if you look at the title of this thread you may see something interesting =D>

It's easy to get it to 30sec or more. Yes....install a complete new system of vacuum lines and connectors.
So the only way to get to 30sec (or much more) is to replace everything? I don't think so.

DON'T rip it all out ! What???.........many of us remove the vacuum system completely (remove, not rip)
Don't confuse the guy. "many of us" is relative. I'd say a half dozen +/- a few have ripped the secondary system out. There are literally thousands of ZR-1 with the secondary systems in place. And guess what? They work.

Just fix it like you would a burned out light bulb. A burned out light bulb 30 feet in the air and no ladder
I agree there are those that would rather throw a rock at the bulb than get a ladder. Or they might even cut the pole down that has the light on it.

You also should not trade the car in for a new one
when the ash tray is full. Or remove the plenum when you have a very very small vacuum leak on a 20 year old car.
We're not even to the point of knowing it's under the plenum. More confusion. A "very very small vacuum" leak is relative. A 10 sec cycle time is not a "very very small vacuum leak". I'd call it a moderate leak to be dealt with. There is absolutely no reason the secondary vacuum system cannot be fixed and fixed to a point where it works for 10yrs before a "very very small leak" appears again. A lot of it has to to with how dusty and dirty the air is in which the car is driven. If you drive your car on dirt roads in dry conditions you're simply going to have more plugged filters and dirty check valves.

Start with the basics.
Find the hard plastic hose that comes out of the pump and
pull it out. Then put you finger over the side coming from the pump.
It should run a bit then stop for an indefinite period of time. Checking for an internal leak in vacuum pump....but even then if it is the vacuum pump back leaking I would not replace vacuum pump for such a small leak.
There is no reason to replace the pump for such a issue as contamination or what's more likely, a leaking diaphragm.
I have a tread on fixing the diaphragm or it maybe attached to a previous tread on the secondary system. .

Report back then we can direct you to the next step. Just explain your version of the steps here
I could but I could also describe how to empty the ash tray. Problem with that is it is premature to go into the LT5 rebuild when it's not clear that's where the problem is

(or find the old thread that covers this to send you too)
When you find the old thread that covers this (there are many) just post it here so we can all see what you found

In good time. In good time. Let's find out if it's needed.

Originally Posted by Dynomite

When you find the old thread that covers this (there are many) just post it here so we can all see what you found

In good time. In good time.

[bad-zr1]

Originally Posted by Schrade

No Sir - can't hear it while driving, but I can just hear it while idling.

So if I TIME the intervals, I can guage a vac. leak? Does the interval have a normal spec time? Such as for a new motor? Is it in FSM?

I don't have a loping idle, which is usually a tell-tale indication of intake leak...

And is the ground for the vac pump integrated into the mount? I'd really like to fab up some cushion into mounting bushings...

If you can hear it run with the engine idling you have a problem. It should not come on with the engine running at an idle. The 10-15 seconds off then on for a second or two is tested with the key on but the engine off. With the engine running the motor is supplying 15-17 inches of vacuum, more than enough to keep the pump shut off.