Slave [Actuator] Cylinder

[ralph92ZR1]

Since I have purchased a '92 ZR-1 in March, 2005, I have tried to read and learn from all the posts; problem i sI cannot remember them all. But you guys are right on. Last week I was going to bleed the brakes and before I did this I noted the level of clutch fluid in the master cylinder was low. I was surprised with only 15K miles; anyway, upon inspection found a slight drip at the slave cylinder. Went to a dealer, no rebuild kit available, so installed a new GM part. Got it on, bled the system, and have a firmer clutch peddle than ever. Then I reread the article on new GM cylinders having the seal backwards. The cluch seems fine and will not get the car on the road until I finish the breaks but I have ??? in the back of my mind about it hanging up. The dealer where I got the new cylinder said if it is wrong I would immediately feel it in the peddle.
Anyone with other experience.?? I guess I could take it off, disassemble, and check the seal but I am no sure what a correct one looks like.
Any recommendations...Thanks.=D> =D>

[rkreigh]

there were some bad slaves going around but I wouldn't take it apart to find out. if it works Ok it will likely work well for a long time.

[tomtom72]

I don't know how to post links Ralph but over at CF in the C4 Tech section do a search under the name of =jeff= and there is a thread(s) with the picture of the correct installed position of the seal....there is a link over at zfdoc.com also for the skinny.

sadly most of us posters in that thread have had cyls with the seal installed backwards from various brand names...Raybestos and genuine GM boxed parts seem to be the leaders. I have found metal in most of my slaves, along with varying degrees of bore scuffing. Even the masters suffer from some bore scuffing....the situation is FUBAR'ed, and Mr. Boudreau has some choice words for the mfg's Q/control.

The symptoms of a degraded clutch hyd system are the tell tale if your new part is good or bad....see zfdoc.com for the skinny on that. On my car I get intermitant gear clash and a baulky shift lever movement with the clash. To dis-assemble you need snap ring pliars and a way to pop out the piston...shop air works great, if not I have had success using the master as a presure source after removing the snap ring. The incorrect seal orientation is the wide end of the taper faces the fork, according to Mr. B the wide end of the seal's taper is to face the fluid. Also look for metal at the end where the lines come in.

I hope you do not have to go thru any of this!


Tom

Sorry I forgot to add this: the defects(?) or Q/C issues seem to be common to the OE style slave cyls, i.e. DOM type. There is a version that has a cast body that users have reported no Q/C or seal issues. I have just ordered a cast unit from Auto Parts Wearhouse and I will report back with what i find when it arrives.

[ralph92ZR1]

Sorry I did not get back sooner but thanks for the assistance. Just bled the brakes with a vacuum bleeder and worked well; won't get the car on the road until this rain stops, and in eastern Penna. we've had a lot.