The dreaded #8 plug, improved

[vilant]

While changing my fuel injectors, I also changed my spark plugs. The #8 plug is in a difficult spot to say the least. Here's how I changed mine. First, I used a spark plug socket (with rubber holder inside) with a 3" 3/8 extension bar. Work it into #8 hole, the end of the extension should be visible. Attach a 3/8 universal joint, then another 3/8 extension bar (I used a 12"), and a socket wrench to the end of that. Should look like this

Loosen the spark plug until it is free. Now take apart everything up to the 3" extension bar. It won't come out with the spark plug attached so, pull the 3/8 extension out alittle bit (you might need needle nose to do this)and grab it with a pair of channel locks. With a screw driver push the socket down, while pulling up with channels, and separate the socket from the extension.


Now to get the socket out. I took apart one of those telescoping mirrors with magnet, by unscrewing the magnet.

Tape the magnet onto a piece of wire. Make sure you wrap it tight, you don't want to lose your magnet down there. I used electrical tape and put a couple wraps around the bottom for good measure. Don't worry it works through the tape. I tested it on a heavy socket to be sure.

Fish the socket out of the hole.

[vilant]

Get your new spark plug ready. This is what the assembly looks like together.

First, drop the new plug down the hole. Then work the 3" extension bar into the socket, attach the universal, and hand start the new plug. Attach the 12" extension bar with a torque wrench on the end. Tighten 19 ft/lbs (according the LT-5 supplement manual).

Once it's tight, gently turn the wrench CCW to help loosen the socket from the plug, don't loosen the plug from the block. Disassemble the socket and long extension. Now work the rest of the assembly free of the plug. Once it's free, take off the universal joint and remove 3" extension and socket. Your done, easy right.
P.S. Thanks again Dynomite for resizing tip.

[scottfab]

It's amusing to see that we all come up with just about the same approach to doing #8. I used the same setup but lowered one piece at a time attaching the next while holding the first etc. Once loosened I just reversed the operation. When inserting the new plug I tape it to the socket and lower it in attaching the extensions one at a time while lowering it in.
After a while you develop a muscle memory and can do it by feel and can keep your eyes shut.

[mike100]

I have a 15 degree wobble (1 inch extension), a cut-off Taiwanese 5/8 spark plug socket and a magnet. I can also work it with a standard full length socket with the right combination of parts.

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/7051/specialtool.jpg

[Torchred96]

Funny, I think I was too proud to look up a tip on this subject and came up with a similar solution that worked for me.

I used fishing string around the 3" extenstion's shaft to pull it out after the spark plug was unscrewed completely. also used the universal upstream of the 3" and the longer extension as you did. I then separated the 3" extension and the socket and left the socket inside the hole, along with the sparkplug which was in the rubber insert.

I was then able to use the head of a 10 penny nail to hook the socket from inside the square hole and grab it with my fingers as it got high enough to do so...at least I think that's how I remember doing it.

[Hib Halverson]

Fishing line!? Cut down Taiwanese sockets, 10-penny nails, screw drivers, pliers, dropping the plug in then fishing for it, magnets, electrical tape....

Guys...your killin' me here.

It's easy to get that plug in and out. You need the following commonly-available 3/8-drive tools:

1) spark plug socket with integral u-joint.
2) one-inch extension
3) u-joint
4) 12 or 18-in extension
5) ratchet or torque wrench

Put it all together then take the plug out. No muss. No fuss.
Takes a few seconds.

I've been using those tools to change #8 since I bought the car in '95.

[Hib Halverson]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Hib: Red Xs

You need the word picture vice album as in [IM G]http://www.zr1.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=213&pictureid=1659[/IMG]

You have the word album as in [IM G]http://www.zr1.net/forum/album.php?albumid=213&pictureid=1659[/IMG]

Just edit and change the word Album to the word Picture in each Code. And then side by side like below looks great (no space between closing [/IMG] of first photo and opening [IMG] of second photo).

Now if you want to resize your photos before you place them in your album.....
Resizing Photos for Forum Posts and Creating Reference Links

I can delete this post as you like when you get your post photos squared away....great stuff and in -Solutions- already.
As I recall, I use the same tools or close to the same tools you use to remove Plug #8.......except my flex head socket wrench is not bent

There are special tools for easy stock exhaust removal and header install also........
Lots of tools/tool usage described in various posts here Tech Info - LT5 Modifications Rebuild Tricks 500 hp

Sorry. As you can tell, I don't do code. I tried to use the site's image insert feature. Maybe it didn't work right.
If there's a problem with the images, I don't understand what it is. I clicked on the links and I see the images so I assumed everyone else can see them.

As for the flex ratchet, that was just what I had sitting on the bench out in the shop when I went to take the photos. Actually, when I'm doing it for real, I use a short ratchet. That way there's no chance to over tighten plugs. The 93-95 head has tapered plug seats so you don't need to use a lot of torque and, yeah, I should use a torque wrench, but...I'm lazy and, at this point in life, I have a good feel for tightening things.

And...just in case anyone's interested, I have Denso IT-22s in that engine.

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by Hib Halverson

Sorry. As you can tell, I don't do code. I tried to use the site's image insert feature.
...snip

As for the flex ratchet, that was just what I had sitting on the bench out in the shop when I went to take the photos. Actually, when I'm doing it for real, I use a short ratchet. That way there's no chance to over tighten plugs.
...snip
I should use a torque wrench, but...I'm lazy and, at this point in life, I have a good feel for tightening things.
...snip

Hib
lots of mumbo jumbo about so-called "code" can be made simple about posting a pic.
Go to your pic here on the forum and look a the field under it
called "BB code". Just copy and paste that code into your text where you want the pic to be. All done.

I agree with your assessment of over complicating the deal with #8
The fewer the pieces used the better feel you have for torque I say.
I use even fewer tools than you by one. I put the ratchet directly on
the extension, no elbow at all.
That is, one plug scocket (w/tape to secure it because i don't trust the socket rubber piece), one 1" extension, one 3" extension, one ratchet.
Insert one at a time and hold it while attaching the next part.
On removal I might put a short pipe on the end of the ratchet.

I too have a pretty good feel for torque on plugs. Occasionally I'll pull out a torque wrench to verify my "feel"
I'm usually within 2lb on anything <20lb.

[Paul Workman]

Yewowza!

I'm with Hib too on tnis one. 3/8" drive plug scocket with intergal swivel, (I use just a 2-1/2" extension) and the ratchet goes down directly on the end of the extension. Break the torque amd it screws out by hand. Installation in reverse._

[Blownrunner]

There are four (five?) seven MM screws and two plugs on the cover inboard of the A/C evaporator. Just remove them and you will have enough room to not only remove the #8 plug, but the whole cam cover. Takes me five minutes to remove. You guys have fun with your funky ratchets and extensions, I will remove the access cover.