Where I am at so far..

[todesengel]

Wanted to give you a brief update on where I am at with everything;

There are 14 outputs on the haltech p2000, so here is how I am going to wire everything;

I am going to run the first 8 injectors in sequential (eight outputs)
I am going to utilize a resistor box, and run the second set of 8 injectors in batch.(two outputs)
Obviously I am going to run wasted spark on the 6.0 truck coils (four outputs)

There is no way I can make the haltech read the factory crank sensor, so I am going to modify a 60-2 tooth wheel to fit the harmonic balancer, and fabricate a mount for a bmw crank sensor. I ordered two of the wheels, and am going to try to place it on the backside of the balancer first, and if that fails I will simply bolt it to the front of the balancer.

Along with the p2000 I purchased the wideband setup that will direct p&p into the haltech. Once I get my base tables set, and a target afr, the haltech will take the readings from the 02's and adjust the afr in real time (temporarily, unless I set it to modify the base map permanently). I also purchased two new ait sensors (screw in) so that I do not have to worry about them blowing out under positive pressure, and both the stock ecu, and the haltech have a reading.

I am going to retain the stock ecu for all on essential functions (guages, a/c, etc) and just start by robbing it of the inector and coil control. I am not too sure how "smart" the old factory unit is, but with any luck it will not recognize that it is no longer firing the coils, and injectors.

Preliminary work has begun, and I am waiting for further parts at this time.

Fuel;

I am going to modify the stock hanger to become a true "twin feed". I am going to utilize the stock fuel line as a feed, and run a new -6 an ss line for the other. Each rail will have its own independent feed line, returning to a "y block, to a aeromotive afpr then back through the stock return line. It should be noted that the standalone I purchased has the "long leads" which includes new fuel control (triggering fuel pumps) with relays. I opted to go this route instead of allowing the factory ecu to continue controlling it. It just makes sense to take this function away from the aging unit for reliability's sake.

Brand new 63# seimens injectors for both primary and secondary injectors will supply the fuel to the engine. Entire secondary system (minus injectors of course) will be removed, as well as ignition module, coils, etc.

I would also like to say thanks to Jerry (took pictures of the crank for me), Pete, the Haltech guys for their great customer service, and everyone else who have helped me by answering my constant questions.

I am now a Haltech dealer, and my total cost in the project is as follows;

Standalone $1650.00
COP'S-$53.51 x 8
Wideband-(with two sensors) $290.00
crank sensor-$60.00
Boost controller-$60.00
Resistor box-?

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Man, you sure are one smart dude.......I'm waiting to hear about this project.

[todesengel]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Man, you sure are one smart dude.......I'm waiting to hear about this project.

No sir, I just have a lot of help from interested people. This is more a "community" effort than me going alone. If it wasn't for the help I have gotten from quite a few people I would not even be close to figuring this out.

By the way, it was great to meet you. Glad you made the journey to be a part of history

[todesengel]

Here is the second spare lt5 I have purchased for this project. The plan with this engine is major porting, rebuild the lower end with 8.5-9.0:1 compression and major cosmetics.

Hopefully work can begin rather quickly on this so I can have it ready by mid july. By that time I should have my tt setup ready to go, and will have most likely popped the first engine pushing it's ability with the turbos.

The second spare is going to be stroked, and lower compression (my plan anyway). I want to document every mod along the way to compare apples to apples. In theory anyway the stroked engine should reduce the turbo lag, allowing for a more linear powerband. I have already purchased two journal bearing gt3582's, and two dual bb gt3582's. I am also going to work with a local turbo builder to make me some hybrids once I get the initial results from the dyno with both of these turbo setups. Since I am not going rear mount, I am going to have to reduce the oil pressure, I am afraid 60-80 psi will wreak havoc on the turbo seals.

[todesengel]

OOP'S

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by todesengel

No sir, I just have a lot of help from interested people. This is more a "community" effort than me going alone. If it wasn't for the help I have gotten from quite a few people I would not even be close to figuring this out.

By the way, it was great to meet you. Glad you made the journey to be a part of history

Well........its way beyond my knowledge and capabilities. You are way smarter that I am for sure, but that would not have been much of a compliment.

Great meeting you too and I have no regrets as it was a great weekend with great folks. I especially enjoyed my first time flying first class and added to my own history.

[todesengel]

Nah, you will be suprised what you can do once you get past that intital fear of "screwing something up". There is very little you can do to an engine that you cannot fix. Trial and error is the way you accomplish things

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Well........its way beyond my knowledge and capabilities. You are way smarter that I am for sure, but that would not have been much of a compliment.

Great meeting you too and I have no regrets as it was a great weekend with great folks. I especially enjoyed my first time flying first class and added to my own history.

[cvette]

Rob, I've got some of the wear strip plates if you need a couple. Screws are made of unobtainiom. I had to retro fit.

Charlie

[A26B]

Bolts for the cam cover secondary timing chain wear plate.
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...products_id=98

Probably a secondary timing chain broke or the wear plate bolt to the cam cover came loose & broke the chain. Valve may be bent in #8 from piston contact.

[todesengel]

Originally Posted by A26B

Bolts for the cam cover secondary timing chain wear plate.
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...products_id=98

Probably a secondary timing chain broke or the wear plate bolt to the cam cover came loose & broke the chain. Valve may be bent in #8 from piston contact.

Thanks Jerry. The chain is not broken, but I am assuming there is most likely a bent valve or two