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Old 03-22-2010   #1
jrd1990zr1
 
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Default Coolant

Pulled the radiator, flushed out and flushed out the garbage from between the fins. New hoses so I am wondering what should I use for coolant.

I see an older post about "Dexcool".

What is the best coolant to put back in a 1990?

Your thoughts are appreciated.
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Old 03-22-2010   #2
xlr8nflorida
 
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Default Re: Coolant

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd1990zr1 View Post
Pulled the radiator, flushed out and flushed out the garbage from between the fins. New hoses so I am wondering what should I use for coolant.

I see an older post about "Dexcool".

What is the best coolant to put back in a 1990?

Your thoughts are appreciated.

I use NAPA, it has the silicates (says it on the bottle) and meets the 1825-M GM spec. It's green in color and inexpensive.

Your main concern is that you want ethylene glycol with silicates and it must meet 1825-M GM Spec.

GM part # 12378560 (expensive) and Original Zerex are other options.

DO NOT USE DEXCOOL WHICH CAN BE ANY COLOR BUT IT IS TYPICALLY ORANGE OR RED.

Good Luck!

Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 03-22-2010 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 03-22-2010   #3
jonszr1
 
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Default Re: Coolant

i also use the napa stuff .price is right .stuff from the dealer is 26 per gallon
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Old 03-23-2010   #4
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Default Re: Coolant

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Originally Posted by jonszr1 View Post
i also use the napa stuff .price is right .stuff from the dealer is 26 per gallon
This must be a typo : 26 (dollars) per gallon?
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Old 03-23-2010   #5
jonszr1
 
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Default Re: Coolant

no not a typo the last time i bought from bud eyre chev i paid 52 dollars plus tax for 2 gallons of gm 1825. so with ca. tax it came to roughly 57 dollars .it is the 100% anti freeze deal
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Old 06-05-2010   #6
scottfab
 
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Default Re: Coolant

Quote:
Originally Posted by xlr8nflorida View Post
I use NAPA, it has the silicates (says it on the bottle) and meets the 1825-M GM spec. It's green in color and inexpensive.

Your main concern is that you want ethylene glycol with silicates and it must meet 1825-M GM Spec.

GM part # 12378560 (expensive) and Original Zerex are other options.

DO NOT USE DEXCOOL WHICH CAN BE ANY COLOR BUT IT IS TYPICALLY ORANGE OR RED.

Good Luck!
FWIW, I had no problems with Dexcool. I first put it in back in 98 and followed the recommendations about flushing well and using distilled water. I put it in after losing a water pump to the gritty silicon crystals that form with the Green stuff.
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Last edited by scottfab; 06-05-2010 at 10:48 PM. Reason: more detail.
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Old 06-05-2010   #7
xlr8nflorida
 
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Default Re: Coolant

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Originally Posted by scottfab View Post
FWIW, I had no problems with Dexcool. I first put it in back in 98 and followed the recommendations about flushing well and using distilled water. I put it in after losing a water pump to the gritty silicon crystals that form with the Green stuff.

The engine was not designed for Dex-Cool. It was designed for 1825-M spec.

Dex Cool makes the head gaskets expand way more then the green stuff.

If you don't believe me call Marc Haibeck or Corey Henderson up and ask those engine builders. Marc has a photo that proves it.

If you want to risk expensive repairs to your LT-5 then by all means use the Dexcool.

Dexcool extends drain intervals and is a good product within itself when it is used as its designed in say a C5 Corvette.

I highly doubt that 1825-M spec coolant made you lose your water pump but even if so, I'd rather lose a $199.00 water pump (with gasket) then R/R head gasket job and/or potential engine damage all because I didn't follow the coolant specs.

Dexcools main claim to fame is "extended intervals". Who cares? It's much pricier, I'd rather change my green stuff every year especially since the LT-5 is all aluminum. It's good for everything, water pump, engine, heater core, lowers temps of engine etc.

That being said, do what you feel comfortable but a call to Marc would change your mind.

Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 06-05-2010 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 06-06-2010   #8
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Default Re: Coolant

Quote:
Originally Posted by xlr8nflorida View Post
The engine was not designed for Dex-Cool. It was designed for 1825-M spec.

Dex Cool makes the head gaskets expand way more then the green stuff.

If you don't believe me call Marc Haibeck or Corey Henderson up and ask those engine builders. Marc has a photo that proves it.

If you want to risk expensive repairs to your LT-5 then by all means use the Dexcool.

Dexcool extends drain intervals and is a good product within itself when it is used as its designed in say a C5 Corvette.

I highly doubt that 1825-M spec coolant made you lose your water pump but even if so, I'd rather lose a $199.00 water pump (with gasket) then R/R head gasket job and/or potential engine damage all because I didn't follow the coolant specs.

Dexcools main claim to fame is "extended intervals". Who cares? It's much pricier, I'd rather change my green stuff every year especially since the LT-5 is all aluminum. It's good for everything, water pump, engine, heater core, lowers temps of engine etc.

That being said, do what you feel comfortable but a call to Marc would change your mind.
I am aware of these opinions and the picture. And yet, I have pictures of a squeaking water pump and a decade of use of the orange stuff. I think there is some chemistry going on that no one fully understands. The question is whether to panic and replace or not. My hypothesis is that the mixture can go basic and cause an interaction with the gasket.
The sky here in the NW does not seem to be falling at this time.
In conclusion: The manufacturer has many reconmendations. The manufacture specs for my car is 10w30 non synthetic.
I choose to run fully synthetic. I used the standard 10w30 until a better solution occurred. The manufacturer exhaust was designed for my car. I choose to run Corsa exhaust.
I'd rather just change the coolant and not loose a water pump or head gasket. I'd rather keep the PH of the coolant at 7.0 and not let it go higher into the basic region. I choose to not add to the hysteria and keep an open mind until more facts are known.
PS I have seen pictures of blocks with the green stuff that developed gasket leaks and eroded the aluminum. (PH no doubt went acid)
The green stuff erodes aluminum way more that the orange stuff.
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Old 06-06-2010   #9
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Default Re: Coolant

I have been using Oreilly auto parts GREEN, but 100% coolant no water.
how much water do i need to add to be right?
how do you test the coolant to determine the ph or whatever its suppose to be?
I changed the water pump in 2006 just to get a new one in there and have had no issues with leaks, but could the 100% coolant maybe be why i'm slighty running over normal temp?
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Old 03-23-2010   #10
jonszr1
 
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Default Re: Coolant

the napa stuff was 14.95 per gallon of the same stuff.
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