Best Way to Replace the Serpentine Belt?

[Paul Workman]

Took me 2-1/2 hours & a couple BandAids to remove and reinstall a new belt today. Gawd! There must be an easier way/faster way to do it. Suggestions?

[efnfast]

Paul, I was able to use a long handle, flex-head 1/2" drive ratchet.

First remove the air coupler from the air horn.

Then put the drive in the tensioner and start the handle on the drivers-side of the air horn then clock it passed the passenger-side of the air horn and hook the ratchet on the throttle body.

That will take the tension off the belt and will hold the tensioner in place.

Made the job much easier.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by efnfast

Paul, I was able to use a 1/2" drive ratchet with a long handle and broken next.
Put the drive in the tensioner, clocked it just right and hooked it behind something, I forget what it was.
Took the tension off and held it in place. Made the job much easier.

Yes, thank you. Actually, I DID that...sorta. But, realized (late in the game) that I needed to pull the tensioner waaaay back. Had to lasso the end of the ratchet and hog-tie it back soze I could use both hands.

Looking back, part of the problem was the way the new belt was packaged. It came folded in such a way as to make a Samurai (blacksmith) proud and wrapped tightly in a paper sleeve - the whole package would just about fit on palm of my open hand (ok, I have big hands?). When I first saw it, I said to myself, "Naw...That can't be the right belt!!" Can we say kinked??

Anyway... I got distracted and had to leave it and come back the next morning. Once the belt had a chance to relax (de-kink itself) AND I retracted the tensioner fully, it went on easy-peazy.

It's amazing how sometimes when you "hit a wall" with a mechanical installation how leaving it and coming back with a fresh look and how easy then the task just comes together! Funny now, yes. But, I thought some of us DIY guys would see the humor in my little folly!

[Dynomite]

My Method does not matter if belt is kinked and you do not have to use a lasso
Post 287 - Replacing the Serpentine Belt

I replaced my Steel Water Pump Pulley with a Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley.
The Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley does not have the ridge (larger diameter) on the front.
Place New Serpentine Belt on all pulleys except the water pump pulley.
Compress Belt Tensioner with hand so you can insert a stick of wood (1" x 2" x 24").....
or long handle 1/2" drive breaker bar to hold Belt Tensioner compressed.
Slide smooth backside of Serpentine Belt on Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley
(easy since it has no ridge on front edge of Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley).
Remove stick of wood or 1/2" drive breaker bar.
This applies to LT5s and L98s.

Now I know why I got the Billet Aliuminum Water Pump Pulley

LT5 Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley.....L98 Billet Aluminum Water Pump Pulley


L98 with Air Pump Eliminated
Note the Power Steering Pulley rides on smooth back side of Serpentine Belt on L98


Easy-Peazy

[XfireZ51]

I use a 1/2” drive breaker bar in the tensioner to pull it back, then slip a large flat blade screwdriver under belt and over alternator pulley.

[Z51JEFF]

There is a belt out there that is IMPOSSIBLE to install,I went through this the first time I replaced it years ago,it’s almost as if it was mis labeled from the factory. I can’t remember which brand,maybe Goodyear or OEM GM. after fighting with this for too long,went and got a GATES belt and had it on the car in the time it takes to loop it around all the pulleys and release the tension. This reminds me,I need to change out that belt.

[1991ZR1]

I think the procedure in the manual was to install the belt over and behind the water pump pulley. After the belt is around all the other pulleys, you can pull the belt forward onto the water pump pulley while pulling back on the tensioner. This worked well when I removed and reinstalled the original belt.

Even with that procedure, some belts will not go on. I had a new belt with the exact same part number as the original belt that would not go on. I think the Goodyear belt went on easily without this procedure.

[Ccmano]

It all depends on the length of the belt. Been down that road. However shorter is better, but a bit harder to install.
H


http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....erpentine+belt

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by 1991ZR1

I think the procedure in the manual was to install the belt over and behind the water pump pulley. After the belt is around all the other pulleys, you can pull the belt forward onto the water pump pulley while pulling back on the tensioner. This worked well when I removed and reinstalled the original belt.

Even with that procedure, some belts will not go on. I had a new belt with the exact same part number as the original belt that would not go on. I think the Goodyear belt went on easily without this procedure.

Now that makes sense and with my aluminum pulleys with no larger front diameter is the same as you suggest

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by 1991ZR1

I think the procedure in the manual was to install the belt over and behind the water pump pulley. After the belt is around all the other pulleys, you can pull the belt forward onto the water pump pulley while pulling back on the tensioner. This worked well when I removed and reinstalled the original belt.

Even with that procedure, some belts will not go on. I had a new belt with the exact same part number as the original belt that would not go on. I think the Goodyear belt went on easily without this procedure.

That makes sense. I finally settled on something similar - pulled the belt over the PS pump while holding the tensioner ALL THE WAY back (important!).

THANKS 4 ALL THE RESPONSES!