Oil prime with compressor and gallon jug? - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Torchred96 · 12-06-2012

I'd like to check the oil passages are getting proper flow of oil. The reason is because 4 of my intake lifters are collapsed and I'm wondering if they are getting enough oil.. anyway, without a normal small block oil pump, what do you guys use to prime the engine before putting it in service after rebuilding it?

The other day, I noticed that the oil pressure gauge sensor had the same threads as the double male adapter on my compressor air line....so, I got to thinking, why not take a gallon can with say 2 or 3 quarts of oil in it, like a mineral spirits can, drill a hole and bolt that adapter to the can with a tube going down to the bottom, close to the bottom anyway and use that for a supply line to the oil pressure port.

Drill and secure a second port for the air In. You could fashion some kind of air bleed hole to be sure you don't get too much pressure.

I'm not even sure if the oil would go in the right direction as opposed to just going into the pan..

thoughts?

Rodder · 12-06-2012

I have done it that way after my car sat for a longer period. 1/4” NPTF fitting in the sensor hole and a hose with a few fittings and a 5 liter plastic can. And I used a tire valve in the can cap and then used a tire inflator to put a little pressure in the can. Worked fine.

Thomas

Torchred96 · 12-09-2012

Thomas, does this charge the oil filter as well?

Cool. This seems like it will be easier than I thought.

Blue Flame Restorations · 12-09-2012

Tyler and I did this on the prototype and filled the oil filter as full as I could get it before hand.

Rodder · 12-09-2012

Sam.
Yes, it will bleed backwards into the filter.

Once you have oil coming up lower the psi, it will give you more time to look around.

Thomas

93 ZR1 Barcelona · 12-10-2012

If you are getting 4 lifters that have drained, maybe it is because they leak from their inside check valve and they need to be replaced. No repairs on this.

Also check that the small orifice that feeds oil to each lifter in the cylinder head is not plugged of dirt. It is a very small hole, so check it with a small wire or a needle that they are open.

When I dissassembled my LT5 engine last year to the last bolt & nut, I drained all the valve lifters of oil, drained and reseted the chain tensioners, and when I started the engine I do not need to prime the oil system.

All inside parts well lubricated during assembly, oil pan full of oil, and started the engine in the normal way. Engine started inmediately and left it at idle. Maybe the chain tensioners took about 15-20 seconds to fill to stop the tensioner knocking noise, and then the valve lifters filled all in a minute or so, so the engine ran smoothly.

Mobil 1 5W50 oil with no problem.

12-06-2012	#1
Torchred96 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Homestead, Fl Posts: 248	Oil prime with compressor and gallon jug? I'd like to check the oil passages are getting proper flow of oil. The reason is because 4 of my intake lifters are collapsed and I'm wondering if they are getting enough oil.. anyway, without a normal small block oil pump, what do you guys use to prime the engine before putting it in service after rebuilding it? The other day, I noticed that the oil pressure gauge sensor had the same threads as the double male adapter on my compressor air line....so, I got to thinking, why not take a gallon can with say 2 or 3 quarts of oil in it, like a mineral spirits can, drill a hole and bolt that adapter to the can with a tube going down to the bottom, close to the bottom anyway and use that for a supply line to the oil pressure port. Drill and secure a second port for the air In. You could fashion some kind of air bleed hole to be sure you don't get too much pressure. I'm not even sure if the oil would go in the right direction as opposed to just going into the pan.. thoughts? __________________ Sam 1991 ZR-1 :salute: Last edited by Torchred96; 12-06-2012 at 06:27 PM.

12-06-2012	#2
Rodder Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Sweden Posts: 28	Re: Oil prime with compressor and gallon jug? I have done it that way after my car sat for a longer period. 1/4” NPTF fitting in the sensor hole and a hose with a few fittings and a 5 liter plastic can. And I used a tire valve in the can cap and then used a tire inflator to put a little pressure in the can. Worked fine. Thomas

12-09-2012	#3
Torchred96 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Homestead, Fl Posts: 248	Re: Oil prime with compressor and gallon jug? Thomas, does this charge the oil filter as well? Cool. This seems like it will be easier than I thought. __________________ Sam 1991 ZR-1 :salute:

12-09-2012	#4
Blue Flame Restorations Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Pendleton, IN Posts: 3,909	Re: Oil prime with compressor and gallon jug? Tyler and I did this on the prototype and filled the oil filter as full as I could get it before hand. __________________ 1988 KOH Prototype EX5023 sold 1990 ZR-1 #444 Convertible 1990 ZR-1 Black #966 1991 ZR-1 Quazar Blue #296 1957 Duntov SS Project

12-09-2012	#5
Rodder Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Sweden Posts: 28	Re: Oil prime with compressor and gallon jug? Sam. Yes, it will bleed backwards into the filter. Once you have oil coming up lower the psi, it will give you more time to look around. Thomas

12-10-2012	#6
93 ZR1 Barcelona Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Barcelona, SPAIN Posts: 41	Re: Oil prime with compressor and gallon jug? If you are getting 4 lifters that have drained, maybe it is because they leak from their inside check valve and they need to be replaced. No repairs on this. Also check that the small orifice that feeds oil to each lifter in the cylinder head is not plugged of dirt. It is a very small hole, so check it with a small wire or a needle that they are open. When I dissassembled my LT5 engine last year to the last bolt & nut, I drained all the valve lifters of oil, drained and reseted the chain tensioners, and when I started the engine I do not need to prime the oil system. All inside parts well lubricated during assembly, oil pan full of oil, and started the engine in the normal way. Engine started inmediately and left it at idle. Maybe the chain tensioners took about 15-20 seconds to fill to stop the tensioner knocking noise, and then the valve lifters filled all in a minute or so, so the engine ran smoothly. Mobil 1 5W50 oil with no problem.