Anyone with StainlessWorks headers

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

There is a vacuum line you need to remove the "T" on and just put a straight coupler on. It is on the driver side fender skirt above the shock tower.

I eliminated the "T" and just moved the "Y" (in front of "T" about 3 inches) back and plugged the "Y" back in where "T" was

[ZZZZZR1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I do not know what the fuss is about

I just installed SW Headers ZR1CORVOR and SW Exhaust ZRICHAMSW in 15 minutes. Of course it took two hours to get the original exhaust off as well as the air induction system.

I just used one of the existing spacers on the bolt for the oil dip stick and it fit perfectly. I plugged the EGR adapter on the SW passenger header with a 5/8 inch bolt ground down and cut off....just tapped it in for perfect fit.

Congrats!!! I didn't notice in earlier posts, but did you take off the wheel wells?

Everything fit well? No issues?



David

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by ZZZZZR1

Congrats!!! I didn't notice in earlier posts, but did you take off the wheel wells?

Everything fit well? No issues?



David

Yes...removed wheel wells completely which took all of 10 minutes. NO issues at all....headers cleared everything easily....I modified the original CAT heat shields and put back in place to keep heat away from the 02 sensor wiring. Getting those original CATS out of the way made a BIG difference. I did not install CATS with SW so just have a short straight 3" tube section where the CATS were

It actually took a bit longer than 15 minutes (It took about an hour to get to the passenger side 02 sensor plug)

It is a very clean installation with the Air Induction system gone out of the way.

I am guessing Stainless Works did some home work in the last year and solved ALL the issues.

I would say the original stock exhaust system was ten times harder to remove than it was to install the SW ZR1CORVOR headers and SW ZR1CHAMSW 3 inch exhaust system

[Dynomite]

Removing the original exhaust system is a lot easier if you have a 3/8 inch swivel, a set of flex metric ratchet wrenches, and a set of 3/8 inch wobble extensions

A set of 3/8 inch metric sockets and 3/8 inch socket wrench is obvious

I use the wobble extensions on almost everything.

Sears has them all......along with the 17 mm transmission plug allen wrench

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Yes it will be nice! U gonna like the boost in performance!!

P.

By the way....I bet you like good foodz also

[tomtom72]

Cliff,

first, congrats on doing the headers!

Second: The "wobble" extensions, are they the one's that look like a C/V joint vs a U-joint......yea, my tool collection is that old, I have a rail of snap-on u-joint sockets that I bought back in '77 for working on my 72.

TIA

Tom

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

The "wobble" extensions, are they the one's that look like a C/V joint vs a U-joint......yea, my tool collection is that old, I have a rail of snap-on u-joint sockets that I bought back in '77 for working on my 72.

TIA

Tom

What I called a 3/8 inch swivel is actually a universal (the "U" joint) in the first picture.

The wobble extensions are in second and third pictures and flex ratchet combination wrenches in fourth picture.

You will notice what allows the wobble in the third picture.

There are all sorts of swivels and swivel socket combinations you can get but these four tools/tool sets will get er done assuming you have a good 3/8 inch socket wrench and set of metric sockets.

Oh...ya...you might need a good 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch torque wrench also. I like the ones that trip at your torque setting. And.....a good set of allen and torx wrenches.
.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Cliff,

first, congrats on doing the headers!

TIA

Tom

Thanks Tom.

I have to say...looking at all that heavy steel I took off including CATS, exhaust manifold, exhaust pipes, mufflers, air injection it is amazing how cluttered it was. And all that exhaust had only one joint actually consisting of two sub joints behind each CATS. What a tangled mess. And....those CATS are gigantic

Those air injection tubes on the headers and going under the oil pan are unsightly extras which apparently are there only for starting a cold engine. This includes all that air injection stuff that went forward to a point under the drivers side headlight

Now the SW headers/exhaust are very light weight, independent, and very clean with very smooth curves and several smooth joints and BIG straight pipes from start to finish

Also the SW headers and SW exhaust come with some very nice chrome pipes (four) that are exposed out the back

[tomtom72]

Cliff, I hear you about the "tangle of piping" that the AIR system represents. It is a mess & ugly at that! That is one of the reasons my SSW headers are still in the box in my living room. Where I live the smog police will not pass a car without it's OE smog equipment....no emission inspection, no registration, no plates, no play. Until I get those tubes installed I can't put mine on.

Thanks for answering my Q about the sockets. Yea I have a set in 3/8" & 1/4" of the u-joint kind. A friend of mine that is a dealer tech has a set that use the c/v joint principal....they are sweet, real smooth and you can do some extreme angles of attack without them binding.


Tom

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Cliff, I hear you about the "tangle of piping" that the AIR system represents. It is a mess & ugly at that! That is one of the reasons my SSW headers are still in the box in my living room. Where I live the smog police will not pass a car without it's OE smog equipment....no emission inspection, no registration, no plates, no play. Until I get those tubes installed I can't put mine on.

Thanks for answering my Q about the sockets. Yea I have a set in 3/8" & 1/4" of the u-joint kind. A friend of mine that is a dealer tech has a set that use the c/v joint principal....they are sweet, real smooth and you can do some extreme angles of attack without them binding.


Tom

Tom....I have to admit to you.....in CA we suffer exactly like you in NY and those emission inspections in CA are expensive (been there and done that). I register all my vehicles in SD as I spend time both places and claim that as my residency

In SD no one even looks at the car or truck for anything and licensing is dirt cheap

If I had to add Air Induction to my SW headers it prolly would be less sightly to come into each header (with the smallest tubes that would pass emissions) from underneath between the engine and header (again....I think the Air Induction system is only for cold starts and the Air Induction valve is only open on a cold engine and since your engine is warm at emmisions checking....should be no emissions issue without that system....unless of course there is a rule on modifications and the emissions inspectors know a bit about what is or is not on stock Zs).

Having to modify those clean looking headers would be a BIG bummer for me