Brakes Failed

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by We Gone

That fluid went somewhere, If you can not find any leaks be sure to check the booster I have seen when the seals blow out it let the fluid drain into it. If not look to see if it ran down the front of the booster where the master cylinder bolts on.

It's prob saturated into the carpet and pedal arm but who knows. Since the OP has not mentioned thats a good of guess as any. GC

[We Gone]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

It's prob saturated into the carpet and pedal arm but who knows. Since the OP has not mentioned thats a good of guess as any. GC

Maybe but wouldn't it have to go thu the booster to get in the car??? I guess it could follow the plunger.

[Billy Mild]

I did some residue above the brake pedal inside the car last night.

Should I get a reman unit or a brand new one? Thoughts on either?

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

I did some residue above the brake pedal inside the car last night.

Should I get a reman unit or a brand new one? Thoughts on either?

I think the Reman unit is ok for a brake master. In a remain alternator they only replace the parts that are bad. However, in the master cylinder they always replace the seals as nothing else really can go bad. Your mileage may vary

[phrogs]

The booster is just that a booster if it failed you still have hydraulic brakes just not light anymore you have to push on that pedal if if it stops its not the hydraulics.

But you need to dig in and see whats up

[Billy Mild]

I bought slotted and drilled Stop Tech rotors. I have Hawk Pads waiting to go in. Now the last decision is if I need to get some new brake calipers like Grand Sports. My only thing is you can't see them with my current wheels. I know sometime next year I will be getting A Molds. I also want some long tube headers and a chip. Decisions, decisions...

[Billy Mild]

Brake Fluid recommendation? Can I run DOT4 or must I run DOT3? Is ATE blue still the preferred fluid?

[mike100]

I run $6 quarts of parts store DOT3 myself. I can afford to bleed it yearly, but even so, DOT3 can absorb a lot more moisture than DOT4 so it is better suited to longer change intervals. DOT4 would be superior for track days I suppose, but would need to be flushed more often. The Ford Motorcraft brake fluid (the regular dot3) used to be rated at a very high boiling point for cheap fluid and was a favorite among road racers of street cars for a long time because they could afford to flush the fluid every weekend.

[batchman]

Originally Posted by mike100

The Ford Motorcraft brake fluid (the regular dot3) used to be rated at a very high boiling point for cheap fluid and was a favorite among road racers of street cars for a long time because they could afford to flush the fluid every weekend.

+1 on the Motorcraft HD fluid. A higher than most wet boiling point, a lower than most cost, and readily available.

Happy bleeding,
- Jeff

[Billy Mild]

I have gotten the master cylinder replaced. I did a reverse bleeding process along with the traditional bench bleeding.

I have painted the calipers, and brackets along with putting new pads/rotors on the car. I assembled the front brakes today. Below are the results.



Cleaned up calipers after wirebrush


During painting




Assembled:


I am running Stoptech Drilled and Slotted rotors up front and Hawk HPS+ pads. The rear I am running stock replacement discs and Hawk HPS+ pads.

I'm having an issue getting my rear brake hoses off. Does anyone have a recommendation on how to get them to break lose?