TB removal and then some!!!

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

I installed a Fluidyne several years ago trying to address overhating innsummer w AC on. We put in a 180d thermo w 4 holes. It did as u described. Temps dropped to 150 or so when cruising in 30d ambient. Finally, settled on 2 1/8” holes using 180d thermo. Works perfectly in warm or cold. Hot weather driving,

temps are easily kept within the 187- 198d range. Fans come on at 190 and 192.

Cruising temps are below that. My cal for fans is set so temps are always in

Closed Loop Learn range.

Hey Dom,

My new garage is built so my car is coming home tomorrow. One of the first projects is the Fluidyne radiator I bought before moving here last year. What if I leave the 180 degree thermostat stock w/o drilling even two holes? Did you try your Fluidyne radiator with stock thermostat?

Thanks,
Craig


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

[XfireZ51]

Craig,

My interest in better cooling was due to use of AC in hot weather traffic. Otherwise not much issue. Plus, w ~550chp, the motor is generating more heat than a stock motor. I would simply install a stock thermo w the Fluidyne. Should be fine.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Craig,

My interest in better cooling was due to use of AC in hot weather traffic. Otherwise not much issue. Plus, w ~550chp, the motor is generating more heat than a stock motor. I would simply install a stock thermo w the Fluidyne. Should be fine.

Thanks for your input. I’ll do some touring this winter, but last summer I had high temps too. Never changed coolant yet in this 95 so time to service and figured the Fluidyne would give me the extra cooling I needed. I guess I can always drill the two 1/8” holes later if needed. My motor is stock other than I’ll install the ported top end and install the headers in next spring. Thanks again.

[A26B]

I've found drilling 1~ 2 holes is generally adequate & helps greatly with overheating in the south & southwest. I've recommended drilling 1~ 2 holes to a lot of customers having cooling problems, but AFTER they follow the process to insure the cooling system is in ideal condition first.

I agree completely with XfireZ51, regarding fan cal & closed loop learn range.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by A26B

I've found drilling 1~ 2 holes is generally adequate & helps greatly with overheating in the south & southwest. I've recommended drilling 1~ 2 holes to a lot of customers having cooling problems, but AFTER they follow the process to insure the cooling system is in ideal condition first.

I agree completely with XfireZ51, regarding fan cal & closed loop learn range.

Hey Jerry,

Is your recommendation for folks with stock radiator or any radiator? I have only had stock and assumed the Fluidyne would provide better cooling over stock.

Thanks!

[Dynomite]

A couple of hints

1. Make sure you have the Haibeck Chip which turns both fans on a 205 deg F and off at 200 deg F. A Stock 95 fans function as follows without the modified chip.

'93 - '95 Primary on at 222 degs. F, off at 212. Secondary on at 230 degs. F, off at 221.
'95 ZR-1 has three fan relays which is different than the earlier years. On the '95 both fans are turned on at half speed at 222 degs. Both fans go on at full speed at 230 degs.

2. Installing the Fluidyne Radiator.
Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats

3. On HOT days keep the rpm above 2,000 rpm to assure your water pump flow is at least 44 gpm Water Pump, Coolant Temperatures, and Coolant

4. I do NOT drill holes in Thermostats.

A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes.

Now compared to the normal aging of the thermostat of 15% over several years of use one would be much better off installing a NEW Stant Thermostat gaining 15% flow area as compared to drilling three 1/8 inch holes in an older Stant Thermostat only gaining 4.7% flow area.

Given the LT5 runs Hotter idling at a stop sign than at 2,000 rpm as cited in Item #3 above a much better focus regarding engine Heating would be engine RPM (which relates directly to pressure on the coolant flow through the Stant Thermostat) and not the Stant Thermostat (Old or New).

See item #7 The 180 deg versus the 160 deg thermostat or no thermostat

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

A couple of hints

1. Make sure you have the Haibeck Chip which turns both fans on a 205 deg F and off at 200 deg F. A Stock 95 fans function as follows without the modified chip.

'93 - '95 Primary on at 222 degs. F, off at 212. Secondary on at 230 degs. F, off at 221.
'95 ZR-1 has three fan relays which is different than the earlier years. On the '95 both fans are turned on at half speed at 222 degs. Both fans go on at full speed at 230 degs.

2. Installing the Fluidyne Radiator.
Blocking TB Coolant, Fluidyne Radiator and Thermostats

3. On HOT days keep the rpm above 2,000 rpm to assure your water pump flow is at least 44 gpm Water Pump, Coolant Temperatures, and Coolant

Thanks for the reminder and tips/tricks Cliff! I have not decided if I will bypass TB with this method or not, but it was sweet on the 90 to remove the plenum dry in minutes.

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Thanks for the reminder and tips/tricks Cliff! I have not decided if I will bypass TB with this method or not, but it was sweet on the 90 to remove the plenum dry in minutes.

Craig,

Yes forgot to add thise details. My TB is blocked as are the IH passages.

[A26B]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Hey Jerry,

Is your recommendation for folks with stock radiator or any radiator? I have only had stock and assumed the Fluidyne would provide better cooling over stock.

Thanks!

Hi Craig,
I have no personal experience with the Fluidyne radiator and have never read anything negative about it.

I think for the majority of ZR-1 drivers doing street duty, it would be better than the Ron Davis radiator. The Ron Davis unit is an excellent radiator, designed and built for racing at high speed. Bear in mind, the ZR-1 radiator is 3rd in line for cool air, behind the AC condenser & Oil Cooler, which have the potential to heat up the incoming air, but always impede the air flow to the radiator. Add to the restriction in front of the radiator, 5 cores of a Ron Davis & you have significant air flow restriction.

As mentioned above, the Ron Davis radiator is made for racing.... no AC condenser or oil cooler in front, so all that high speed incoming air gets used through the 5 cores.

As a matter of economics, if you have the OE radiator, it's clean,in good condition and you are having overheating problems, try 1 hole in the thermostat, or 2 at the most & see how it works for you. A little sweat equity but no real cost.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Craig,

Yes forgot to add thise details. My TB is blocked as are the IH passages.

Thanks Dom! I had an additional set of plenum and IHs ported so I might consider doing the IH block while I’m doing the install.