DCM: AKA (Expletive!)

[TX '90 ZR1]

Always like to have a project going on my '90 and I am down to the "picky" stuff. Decided to remove the passenger seat to repair the lumbar system and had the brainstorm to take out the DCM as Dr. Don tells me this is why my radio is not working.
I read all the horror stories and even checked my FSM. (My original '90 red cover FSM has bad information. It is totally useless for removing the DCM).
Had the covers off the dash in a couple of minutes and could see the 3 connectors on the passenger side as well as the nut that needed to be removed. Another couple of minutes and I had the connectors loose as well as the nuts on both sides using a ratchet end box wrench. I was thinking, "This is not near as bad as the stories, slide it forward and work it out". WRONG!! Nowhere in the research I did was any mention of electrical connectors on the drivers side of the DCM. These two connectors were by far the worst part of getting the box out. There is about half enough room to get ahold of them, and being in there for nearly 30 years they were not giving up easily. The box will not slide forward 'till these connectors are loose. I considered explosives a couple of times.
After getting the drivers side connectors loose, was able to work the box forward and out towards the passenger side.
Anybody know who the rocket scientist is that decided the box needed an aluminum bracket sticking out the front? That 1 inch would make removing a lot easier. If it is a heat sink or something, I think I could have figured out a better way to do it.
As I was looking the box over after removal, I noticed the label said "Made in Kokomo". Yes, "Kokomo!!!". Considering what I went through to get it out, I took it as a really bad diss on a good Beach Boys song. It was not funny!

[Dynomite]

DO not break those two plastic "L" tabs on each side of the CDM (Control Data Module) black plastic Cover

See #3...……...Post # 139---Bose (Radio, Speaker Amps, CDM) Replace

There is a video there in Post #139 as well......have fun....
Oh......when you install another CDM plug it in (all electrical connections)
before you complete the installation to make sure that was the issue

[TX '90 ZR1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

DO not break those two plastic "L" tabs on each side of the CDM (Control Data Module) black plastic Cover

See #3...……...Post # 139---Bose (Radio, Speaker Amps, CDM) Replace

There is a video there in Post #139 as well......have fun....
Oh......when you install another CDM plug it in (all electrical connections)
before you complete the installation to make sure that was the issue

Thanks for the input Dynomite.
I watched the video and read the posts several times for guidance.
And I will definitely hook the DCM up for a test run before doing the complete re-install.

[indy91zr1]

Originally Posted by TX '90 ZR1

Always like to have a project going on my '90 and I am down to the "picky" stuff. Decided to remove the passenger seat to repair the lumbar system and had the brainstorm to take out the DCM as Dr. Don tells me this is why my radio is not working.
I read all the horror stories and even checked my FSM. (My original '90 red cover FSM has bad information. It is totally useless for removing the DCM).
Had the covers off the dash in a couple of minutes and could see the 3 connectors on the passenger side as well as the nut that needed to be removed. Another couple of minutes and I had the connectors loose as well as the nuts on both sides using a ratchet end box wrench. I was thinking, "This is not near as bad as the stories, slide it forward and work it out". WRONG!! Nowhere in the research I did was any mention of electrical connectors on the drivers side of the DCM. These two connectors were by far the worst part of getting the box out. There is about half enough room to get ahold of them, and being in there for nearly 30 years they were not giving up easily. The box will not slide forward 'till these connectors are loose. I considered explosives a couple of times.
After getting the drivers side connectors loose, was able to work the box forward and out towards the passenger side.
Anybody know who the rocket scientist is that decided the box needed an aluminum bracket sticking out the front? That 1 inch would make removing a lot easier. If it is a heat sink or something, I think I could have figured out a better way to do it.
As I was looking the box over after removal, I noticed the label said "Made in Kokomo". Yes, "Kokomo!!!". Considering what I went through to get it out, I took it as a really bad diss on a good Beach Boys song. It was not funny!

probably kokomo indiana

[BigJohn]

Delphi electronics Kokomo Indiana

[TX '90 ZR1]

I realized after a while it was Kokomo, Indiana. However, that was not my thought just after getting it out!
Have a great one guys.

[Z51JEFF]

Wasn’t that a nightmare? At some point it was moved to one of the bins behind the seat. One thing you want to make sure of is make sure all of the plugs go back together with all the connectors in their cavities. When I did mine years ago when I plugged everything back together I didn’t notice that one of the connectors for the ABS got pushed out of the plug,took me forever to find the issue with the ABS. I unplugged everything that passes under the CDM.

[TX '90 ZR1]

Originally Posted by Z51JEFF

Wasn’t that a nightmare? At some point it was moved to one of the bins behind the seat. One thing you want to make sure of is make sure all of the plugs go back together with all the connectors in their cavities. When I did mine years ago when I plugged everything back together I didn’t notice that one of the connectors for the ABS got pushed out of the plug,took me forever to find the issue with the ABS. I unplugged everything that passes under the CDM.

Thanks for the input Jeff.
I visited with Dr. Don extensively about removing it. In fact, I tried to get him to agree to remove and install it as he is just a few hours from me. He as kindly as he could told me he was NOT doing it!!
He explained to me how to get it out without disconnecting all the wires underneath the CDM. I did it as he suggested. It might or might not have been easier with the wires loose. Either way, it was not a pleasant experience to remove. Keeping my fingers crossed I can get it back in without throwing hard items into breakable objects!!

[Z51JEFF]

Back when I did mine,while working on this thing,laying on my back in the passenger foot well,looking up into a 9 inch square hole I reliezed,I couldn’t see for sh!t. I started wearing glasses after that. That was the most challenging job I’ve ever done.

[Reichert]

Before I learned about Dr. Don from the forums here, on my own research I found these guys in Florida that specialize in Corvette stereo repair. I removed and boxed up the DCM, all 4 amps, and head unit and mailed the whole kit to them. I had it back within a week, and everything worked like new. Every bit of it turned out to have some problem or another, especially the amps. Cost was $700. $100 of that was extra to have a 3/8" stereo line-in added. Lifetime warranty on amps; 1 year on the tuner.

http://www.carstereoremoval.com/htm/...alCorvette.htm

There are some good videos of removing the components on their website as well: http://www.carstereoremoval.com/htm/...ette90_96P.htm

And yes .. despite all of the how-to videos and planning .. extracting the DCM out from under the dash was a joyless experience that I hope never to have to repeat.