Locobob's Interior Mod Thread

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by tf95ZR1

I turn the V1 sound up all the way, so when it goes off it scares the *)@# out of me and I lift off the gas.
Then I look down to see if the source is in front of me or behind. The bigger issue is where to put the main unit.
It gets too hot on the dash.
I did the Am HC (Pat Scorzetti in FL.) in 2008. I HAD to do something because the "rubber" was lifting off.
I think I mailed him 9 pieces. I like it and it's VERY easy to clean. I'll try to find or take some pictures.
I'm anxiously waiting to see your final interior pictures. Did you take any "safety precautions" dealing with the air bags?

I installed my V1 main unit on the halo, made a bracket that surrounds it and attaches to the halo trim panel just behind and centered between the seats. That way its up high and is relatively unobstructed in all directions. Of course I no longer have the original windshield, if you do it will cut your signal strength a fair amount not utilizing the "radar window".

For the steering wheel pull I disconnected the battery and unplugged the SIR harness under the dash. I removed the module carefully and avoided placing myself in front of it.

[Locobob]

Well I snipped the SIR wire, couldn't see how it was going to come out otherwise short of doing a good bit of column disassembly. On to the next problem.... the horn connection is not looking good.
The horn wire is attached to a spring which fits into the white plastic tube in the column and is held in place by a black plastic cylinder with a nub on it that locks into a notch in the white plastic tube. The spring assembly holds the wire to the contact while allowing it to rotate at the same time. I put a female connector on the wire.


Well here is the hub in place and just for illustration I fed the horn wire through the window, if you look closely you can see the black plastic tube is also in the window... which of course turns when you turn the wheel..... not good.


Another view showing the inside of the hub... note the thick area around the splines and then the close proximity of the white tube to the splines.... hmmm this is not going to work. I could cut the black tube down so that it is flush with the white tube and it will still lock in place but I'm not sure that is going to be enough. I'm not sure the white tube itself is going to clear once I tighten the hub all the way down.

[Locobob]

Here you can see the NRG hub matches up pretty well with the factory stuff. Measuring from the apex of the gauge housing it is 5 1/2 inches to the back of the Momo wheel, the factory wheel measured right at 6 inches. Since I'd rather have the wheel closer than stock I'm going to look into spacers - probably something around 1in thick would do the trick.


Gauge view looks good and unobstructed

[-=Jeff=-]

Thanks for the pictures.. I might be going through this over the winter too..

I just realized that having the QR wheel might make it easier for working under the dash on the Driver side too, when needed

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by Locobob

Well there might be room, can't see yet. I just got the wheel off and now I'm trying to figure out how the SIR coil comes out. Is there any advantage to using a resistor? I have the DIC off so pulling the bulb seems like the easiest route if one is as good as the other.

The "fishing" would have required the removal of the lock-plate and loosening the turn signal switch. I thought the fishing might be of interest to maintain a 100% SIR coil for maybe resale or what-ever. If you left considerable wire on the connector it can be spliced. It's I believe an accepted procedure when the correct splices are used.

The advantage of using the resistor is the DIC still does a correct "bulb check" and it also turns out the "fasten belts" ICON/warning in the cluster. With your cluster exposed you might just remove that bulb also!

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

The "fishing" would have required the removal of the lock-plate and loosening the turn signal switch. I thought the fishing might be of interest to maintain a 100% SIR coil for maybe resale or what-ever. If you left considerable wire on the connector it can be spliced. It's I believe an accepted procedure when the correct splices are used.

The advantage of using the resistor is the DIC still does a correct "bulb check" and it also turns out the "fasten belts" ICON/warning in the cluster. With your cluster exposed you might just remove that bulb also!

Knowledgebase Dave...

Good points...

[Locobob]

Another shot of the steering wheel and hub, I decided I want it out further so I ordered a 1in spacer - while I'm waiting for it to show up hopefully I will come up with a plan for the horn.


This one is for you Ted - halo mounted V1

[Locobob]

Back to wiring stuff, I ran the 6 channel RCA's (for possible future use, i.e. an amp) and the back-up cam video line along the path of the radio antenna.




This thing is really in the way

[Locobob]

Got my one inch spacer and finished the wheel install. I'm not sure what I was thinking when I was playing with the horn wire a while back, think I got mixed up about what turns and what doesn't... anyhow didn't really need to change anything with the horn.

These two little plastic tabs at the top of the steering column need to be trimmed back.


Hub, spacer and quick release installed. The spacer can also mount between the wheel and the quick release but I thought it made more sense putting it on the column side of the QR.


Wheel all done.

[Locobob]

Also finished up my back-up cam install. At first I was just going to hole-saw the license plate frame but it is not perpendicular to the road - its got a pretty good angle that would have resulted in a nice view of the sky and not so much the road. So I carved a little bracket out of aluminum that can be bent fairly easily to adjust the view angle. It mounts between the bumper cover and the license plate light and uses the existing screws so it could be completely reversed if needed - no permanent modification here........ not that it matters on my car which is one big permanent mod anyhow lol.