Locobob's Interior Mod Thread

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

are you going with the hidden V1 display in the DIC? One of my best modding decisions and I know Andrew would still make you one. Any thoughts on the orange selfdimming LED compass mirror? You can see the hidden V1 display in my picture below with the rubber reset button and the bottom of the compass mirror

GC

Yeah I'm leaning that way on the V1 display, I bought a spare DIC to mod - just looks to be a matter of cutting out some plastic in the back. I've also kicked around putting it in the RV mirror or just leaving it in the vent above the DIC... decisions decisions. One thing that crossed my mind is that with no air bag and no low tire warning I don't have all that many warning lights left. If I attached some wires to the DIC circuit board I could take those remaining warning lights and move them to the unused areas in the gauge cluster - I could then chop off the screen portion of the DIC and put a GPS in its place. Hmmmm

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by Locobob

Quick and dirty? I'll show you quick and dirty lol... this is what I was envisioning.


I'm looking at 8a 145-0

My thought was to use the lumbar circuit to provide power for all the accessories around the center console since its a much bigger wire than the little pink/black acc wire. Any reason this is a bad idea???

That should work just fine.. Might want to fuse them though, not sure if lumbar was a fuse or breaker

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

That should work just fine.. Might want to fuse them though, not sure if lumbar was a fuse or breaker

Lumbar is on a 30 amp breaker, looking at the fuse block details on 8a -11 -7 it looks like three things are run off this breaker (PWR ACCY): power door locks (with a 15amp fuse), power seat switches (direct), and power sport seat functions (direct). And yes inline fuses are a great idea, the V1 already has one. My rationale behind doing it this way is that it creates a pretty clean power distribution center for 5 different things which are all close together. How did you do that nice looking diagram by the way? Is there a program that does that?

[-=Jeff=-]

That was one with Paint.. Lol

I have used Visio before as well

[Locobob]

Been mainly working on getting the insulation kit installed for the last few days, it's a big job because everything in the interior has to come out. The Vettenuts pre-cut kit has been pretty good so far, I have had to make a few alterations here and there but having the basic shapes pre-cut is a nice time saver.

Here is the rear cargo area with floor, back wall, and wheel housing pieces installed. You can see the two holes I made for wiring in the driver seat back wall and also the hole in the center rear of the cargo area. I installed rubber grommets to protect the wires. The hole on the right side of the picture is for the electric exhaust cut out valves and the red wire is power for the back-up camera. The left hole will be for RCA wires: video for back up cam and 6 channels for a possible future stand alone amp.


Pass. side floor and sill


Pass. side floor and tunnel. The wires you see are for the rear mounted battery, they will sandwich between the two insulation layers and tuck up against the tunnel.

[Locobob]

The pre-cut trans tunnel sides don't quite meet at the top.


So I used some of the extra material provided and filled in the gaps, hopefully this won't cause any clearance issues, I don't think it will since the material is quite thin and compressible.


The pre-cut piece for the seat back wall was one piece and taller than it need to be, I cut it in half in order to make it easier to work with and trimmed a good bit off the top.




When putting the drivers side foot-well carpet back in don't forget to tuck it under this plastic piece which serves to keep it from getting into the accelerator pedal. This piece of plastic is a bitch - it's held on by two screws (easy) and a plastic body rivet which is just an absolute pain.

[Locobob]

My steering wheel hub kit finally showed up. I decided to go with the NRG quick release hub - figured being able to quickly remove the steering wheel will come in handy at times. Here is the NRG quick release and "short" hub, together they are 4in tall, adding the Momo wheel the whole assembly is about 5 1/2 which should put it fairly close to where the stock wheel sits. If I decide I want to come out further I think I will just buy a spacer which mounts between the wheel and the quick release - the spacer will come off with the wheel and a part of the quick release as a single unit.

[-=Jeff=-]

So what colors are you changing on the interior

I know that panel by the accelerator all too well

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

So what colors are you changing on the interior

I know that panel by the accelerator all too well

Just adding a little red to the all black, door panels, hush panels, and steering wheel.

[tf95ZR1]

Hidden V1 display. It will fit.......



Before I had all the interior pieces Am HC carbon fiber covered. Too shiny
for me to photograph